Trans Questions.....Hard Going Into Gear

[csavaglio]

I think you'll be ok on the slave. I believe the difference is the angle that the bleed screw is set at. It points straight down on the later one.

If it doesn't work, though, Zip is now carrying correct, stamped steel bodied slave cylinders (as opposed to the cast junk you get at most parts stores and mail order places).

I second your thoughts on Jim. He was great about answering my questions on bleeding the system after I got the rebuilt units back on the car. One trick, after you get the initial bleed done, is to jack the rear of the car up and let it sit overnight. The hose connection is at the rear of the slave and at the front of the master, so putting the car up at a nose down angle, helps let the air work it's way to the top.

I don't bother with the bleed screw on the slave cylinder once there's a little fluid in the slave cylinder. Basically, I fill the master, crack open the bleed screw and work the clutch until fluid starts coming out the bleeder (into a tube to keep the mess down). Then I close up the bleeder and start working the clutch down to the floor and back up. Just make sure you keep fluid in the master cylinder's reservoir.

C

[Rumbln70SS]

Originally Posted by csavaglio

I think you'll be ok on the slave. I believe the difference is the angle that the bleed screw is set at. It points straight down on the later one.

If it doesn't work, though, Zip is now carrying correct, stamped steel bodied slave cylinders (as opposed to the cast junk you get at most parts stores and mail order places).

I second your thoughts on Jim. He was great about answering my questions on bleeding the system after I got the rebuilt units back on the car. One trick, after you get the initial bleed done, is to jack the rear of the car up and let it sit overnight. The hose connection is at the rear of the slave and at the front of the master, so putting the car up at a nose down angle, helps let the air work it's way to the top.

I don't bother with the bleed screw on the slave cylinder once there's a little fluid in the slave cylinder. Basically, I fill the master, crack open the bleed screw and work the clutch until fluid starts coming out the bleeder (into a tube to keep the mess down). Then I close up the bleeder and start working the clutch down to the floor and back up. Just make sure you keep fluid in the master cylinder's reservoir.

C

Thanks for all the tips Chris! When I talked with Jim, he gave me the suggestion of installing the slave with the line and using an oil can with a hose attached to the bleeder to force the fluid up to the master, so we'll see what works.

I got my parts back on Friday, but due to all the issues with my BMW needing a water pump I have not installed them. I will be doing the job tomorrow evening.

Below is a shot of the completed parts. I didn't have Jim do all the paintwork he normally does on the parts because honestly I am more interested in getting the car up and running than the minor details. Once it's a solid driver I'll do the detail work.



Below is he inside of the slave that came on my car. As you can see, it was beyond repair and another indication the car sat for a while.



This came in today as well.....I have an aquaintance that is a dealer so I figured I would try it out to see if the trans shifts cleaner, plus I know what's in it. I'll do the fluid change after the master/slave is on to see what the difference is with each update.



Wish me luck! I hope to have it on and bled by Wednesday with the Wife's help.

[Rumbln70SS]

It's been a little while since I have posted as it took me a little longer to get the parts installed due to other priorities.

First impression is its much better, although I think I still have a little air in the system as its it still moves forward slightly when putting it into first.

Next steps are to jack it up from the rear, bleed and change the trans fluid.

All in all happy with the result!