Headers install tips? Cliff???

[Karl]

Originally Posted by efnfast

Regarding the stage 8 bolts, I couldn't get the keepers on, actually, the shop that installed my headers couldn't get the keepers on. The clip was thicker than the groove it goes in. So in other words, I paid $75 for header bolts.

All that is needed is to trim the locking tabs for them to fit.

I will be using stage 8 bolts and copper header gaskets as I do not want to do this job twice!

[USAZR1]

Originally Posted by Schrade

Headers should be here in a few days;

Did you go with the OBX headers,Schrade?

[efnfast]

Originally Posted by pushrod-v8

All that is needed is to trim the locking tabs for them to fit.

I will be using stage 8 bolts and copper header gaskets as I do not want to do this job twice!

I would have had to grind them thinner. Shouldn't have to do that.

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by USAZR1

Did you go with the OBX headers,Schrade?

Yes I did there Clint - I thought for some reason that HAB055 OBX was discontinued, but they're showing up in a few places on the web (not on OBX' site search tho').

That was my preference, since that's what Jeff [Shrek] had on his wife's Z, matched up with the Power Effects pipes that I bought from him last week...

What is 'Stage 8' hardware? Same as Grade 8?

And what kind of anti-lock thread compound? Copper? Aluminum? Or Teflon / PTFE???

And will penetrating oil get in hot heads better than if it's cold to start with?

Are snappics worth posting here? Anyone interested?

[efnfast]

Stage 8 bolts have a splined head, a locking tab, and a clip that holds the locking tab in place. Gaurenteed not to loosen, if you can get the clip in.

[Karl]

Originally Posted by efnfast

I would have had to grind them thinner. Shouldn't have to do that.

I agree but on the other hand they are never going to be a perfect fit. I had to trim some of the locking tabs on my old l98 with long tube hooker headers.

No problems and well worth the piece of mind.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by pushrod-v8

I agree but on the other hand they are never going to be a perfect fit. I had to trim some of the locking tabs on my old l98 with long tube hooker headers.

No problems and well worth the piece of mind.

Concur

With the Stage 8 I hand tighten moderately with Anti-seize on the Stage 8 Header Bolts since they are locked once installed. You do NOT need a torque wrench on the Stage 8 bolts with locks when installing. I do use a bit of Anti-seize on the Stage 8 Header Bolts.



If you like you can remove the engine and install the Headers and then reinstall the Engine With Headers Installed

Installing Engine In ZR1

[WARP TEN]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Installing Headers and Exhaust

I would highly recommend using a 1/4 inch socket, 1/4 inch Universal and 1/4 inch extensions (wobbles) as much easier to work in tight spaces around Headers.

Also useful are ratcheting box wrenches. I think 10mm for those bolts but not certain. I brought a set over when Marc H and I were installing prototype headers on my '93 in the mid-nineties. He liked them so much I gave them to him as a present. --Bob

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by WARP TEN

Also useful are ratcheting box wrenches. I think 10mm for those bolts but not certain. I brought a set over when Marc H and I were installing prototype headers on my '93 in the mid-nineties. He liked them so much I gave them to him as a present. --Bob

Yep

And make sure those Ratcheting Box Wrenches are Flex Head

I use the wobble extensions on almost everything. The wobble extensions are in first picture and flex ratchet combination wrenches in second picture.



Exhaust System Replace with Headers

[efnfast]

It wasn't the pointy lock tab that wouldn't fit, it was the jesus clip that held the pointy lock tab.