The Dreaded No Start

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by gbmidyear66

.... snip...

I'm going to keep a close watch on the behavior each time I try to start the car to try and isolate clutch Vs VATS - hopefully my experience was a "one of".

There is a thread somewhere that lists in order of "most likely to occur" the "NO start" issues. If you print it and have it in the car you can refer to it quickly upon the next event (if ever). If it is not already, it should be a sticky thread and in the Solutions list.

[Dynomite]

Take a look at the Intermittent No Start TIPS Link Below

That link cites Haibeck Automotive Technology Haibeck Automotive Technology as the source of the Technical Information

STARTER
Intermittent No Start TIPS
Starter Electrical Connections TIPS
Starter Solenoid TIPS
Starter relay modification TIPS
Hold starter longer to prevent backfire TIPS
Starter Relay, Wiring Harness, and Plugs Tricks
Clutch Start Switch Linkage
No start
No start cure
Starting issues
Ebay ZR1 Starter

[Dynomite]

Guess what......I have a NO START

Got to test my Tow Adapter
Worked perfectly....popped the clutch in second gear and vrrrrrrooooommmm



See #2 of Lifting and Towing the ZR-1

I will make sure I have plenty of battery and if so .....will remove the plenum and fix the darn starter (this the 91'....starter fixed on 90'). It rat tat tat tats.....
I will even take photos for anyone that is interested in a 10 minute Plenum Removal.

Dang

[Bearly Flying]

10 minute Plenum removal.????....... Your Welcome at my place anytime....

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Bearly Flying

10 minute Plenum removal.????....... Your Welcome at my place anytime....

To make Plenum Removal a 10 minute issue you should previously have Eliminated TB Coolant, Installed Oil Catch Can, put nothing on the gaskets and have a 1/4 inch socket with short extension for the DIS module connection in back of Plenum in your hand.....you are there (the 10 minute Plenum Removal)

Cliff

[Bearly Flying]

Geez, You Guy's amaze me. Took me three days to get everything stripped off.

[Corbusa]

Pictures Dyn. Please and the TB coolant removeal. thanks

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Corbusa

Pictures Dyn. Please and the TB coolant removeal. thanks

OK.....will do Pictures for the Quick Plemum Removal NEXT TIME.

It turns out my Battery went dead on last drive as I was driving.....I did not get past STEP #1 described in Section B below......

Battery Hold Down Clamp is held in place with 6mm Allen Head SS Bolt
which can be removed using a 6mm Ball End Allen 3/8 inch socket.

Refer to mgbrv8 Plenum Pull Thread as he has done a super Plenum Pull Coverage (Great Photos) including great Detailed Photo Coverage on AC Compressor and Starter Repairs
mgbrv8 Plenum Pull including AC Compressor and Starter Repair

Complete set of ALL pictures here NEXT TIME See #2 The 10 Minute Plenum Removal

TB Coolant Elimination is Item #4 LT5 Eliminated Systems

A. Tools for Plenum Removal.

Two Allen Head wrenches (6mm and 3mm),
Two flat head Screw drivers and ...................................1/4 inch socket wrench with 1/4 inch socket
TB bracket wrenches (7mm and 9mm)..........................and short extension for DIS Connector

B. Plenum Removal Steps (assuming you have TB Coolant Blocked). If not.....remove some coolant before you start.
1. Disconnect Battery (Check Battery Condition and Jumper GOOD Battery as FIRST CHECK).
2. Remove Samco (or stock) Air Duct (large flat screw driver).
3. Remove Oil Catch Can Hose (If Oil Catch Can Installed) to Plenum and PCV Dual Connector on back of Plenum (small flat screw driver).
4. Remove Throttle Body Cables (two including TB Shield and two top (I have 3mm SS Allen Head) screws on Plenum) and TB Connector (7mm and 9mm wrenches).
5. Remove Fuel Regulator Vacuum Hose "L" rear of Plenum.
6. Disconnect MAP Vacuum hose from MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) and from rear of Plenum.......
(in case it gets intangled with other wires/hoses as MAP is not disconnected from Plenum).
7. Disconnect Passenger Side Plenum Vacuum (and Drivers side Plenum Vacuum if secondaries not removed).
8. Disconnect Brake Boost Vacuum line Drivers Side Rear of Plenum.
9. Remove three 6mm Allen Head SS Fuel Line Bolts and two fuel lines (6mm Allen Ball Head Socket) or Torx-40 stock bolts.
10. Open gas cap to prevent fuel lines from leaking when removed from fuel rail.
11. Remove 12 Allen Head SS Plenum Bolts (6mm Allen Ball Head Socket with Extension) or Torx-40 stock bolts.
12. Lift Plenum from Gasket (front only) and remove two Cam Cover PCV Vent Rubber Connectors to Air Horn.
13. Disconnect two DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) Connectors front of DIS.
14. Disconnect large Purge Vacuum line under front of Plenum (91')......
(90' has small vacuum line only under front of Plenum going to Charcoal Canister under left head light).
15. Disconnect two small electrical connectors rear under Plenum (MAP and DIS).
16. Unscrew 1/4 bolt in Main DIS Connector rear of Plenum.
17. Remove Plenum.

C. Starter Removal.
18. Remove Coil Pack Connector and 4 bolts (two pairs 8mm hex heads 6mm bolts front, 10mm hex heads 8mm bolts rear).
19. Remove Coil Packs with plug wires attached (remove all 8 plug wires from Cam Covers).
20. Check starter with hot wire but then disconnect Starter Solenoid connector.
21. Disconnect main HOT wire from Battery to Starter.
22. Remove two starter mounting bolts (13mm Hex Head 10mm bolts) and lift starter out of Valley.

D. New Tools These from Harbour Freight......

a. 1/4 inch drive Torx #40 hardened steel for Plenum and Cam Cover Bolts (just long enough to reach between those two tight runners on the Plenum).

b. 14 inch long combination 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch drive Flex Head Socket wrench strong enough (even using the 1/4 inch end) to remove the hardest to remove Torx Cam Cover Bolts. The 14 inch leverage eliminates the need for a cheater bar on the typical socket wrench.

[mgbrv8]

Here ya go buddy its all there

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=bf12a0aa41

Dave

[POWERBRAKEBOB]

I bought my car new, and had the problem since. I learned more than I ever wanted to know. I found that the PASS Key, after verifying, then tells the F/P relay to start the pump to run for 2 seconds. THEN, that relay tells the Starter Enable Relay to allow current on thru the system to start cranking. HOWEVER, IF you keep running the tank low on fuel, it will burn up the pump. WHEN the pump overheats, it burns the relays. AQLL of this happened until one day, it would not crank, even when I hotwired the solenoid. I changed the pump, still problems, I ended up changinf the F/P relay. THEN I changed the starter relay. I had bypassed the clutch swith some 20 years ago. This time I bypassed the PASS key. Still problems. The car had sat a few years, so I hit the engine at the quarter car wash. While replacing the injectors, I noteced water in the valley. ASSUMING it would dry up soon. I lef it. It looked like bilge water. Ended up, the starter went under water. So, I ended up rebuilding the starter, BUT I was able to install a longer armature and field circuit off of another Denso starter.
NOW, with the PASS bypassed, the clutch switch bypassed, new relays, and higher powered starter, this motor SPINS. It starts now with snap, and never a failure. I am building these starters for your car, if you are in need of a starter that really cranks. I can also rebuild the alternator and water pumps. Up next is a larger bore clutch master and a HYDROBOOST Power brake booster, using a larger (1 inch) master.