Engine won't turn over when warm - Page 5 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Z51JEFF · 07-01-2012

Corvette Express found one for me about a year ago but at $150 plus markup it was close to $200 by the time it was shipped to me.If you need one bad enough you might look them up,this place is in Vacaville Ca I think,your welcome.

Crusin · 07-01-2012

Thanks for your reply Jeff. I will check them out to see if they have any available. CHEERS!

Paul Workman · 07-01-2012

Back to the starting issue for a moment...

FYI, A couple years back there was some chatter about the contacts inside the starter solinoid being a problem at about 40k miles (on average).

This is the relay that connects the battery to the starter windings - 100s of amperes involved, and is what is what starter "rebuild kits" consist of.

The contacts consist of a copper ring and two copper terminal posts. The copper ring (looks like a washer) is on a shaft that is slammed against the two copper terminals when the starter solenoid is activated to connect the battery to the starter windings.

At issue is arching. The result of arching is pitting and carbon tracing severely pits and etches the copper ring as well as blasting molten material from the surface of the copper terminals. Over repeated usage, the electrical connections deteriorate to the point where the starter will "click", but because current sufficient to turn the starter is not flowing, the engine will not turn over.

One can buy rebuild kits for the starter on ebay for under $10; consisting of a new armture & attached copper ring, as well as the two terminals.

(Note: One word of caution regarding some of those kits: The (plunger) pin on the armature may not be exactly the same length as the stock one. However, the copper ring of the stock armature can easily be resurfaced with some emory paper wrapped around a small (block of wood). Then, replace the terminal pieces and adjust them so that the ring contacts them both at the same time, and reuse the stock armature. (12,000 miles since I did mine and still going strong!))

This may have nothing to do with the issue at hand, but for anyone pulling the plenum for some reason, and hasn't R&R'ed the starter solenoid contacts, then would be an ideal time to do so!

FWIW,

P.

Crusin · 07-01-2012

Thanks for your opinion Paul. The issue was solved after I bypassed the Neutral Safety Switch. I am now in the process of trying to find a NSW for a manual transmission. CHEERS!

scottfab · 07-01-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z51JEFF

Corvette Express found one for me about a year ago but at $150 plus markup it was close to $200 by the time it was shipped to me.If you need one bad enough you might look them up,this place is in Vacaville Ca I think,your welcome.

wow, $200 for a switch. I'm sure glad that I have always pressed the clutch all the way down before turning the key!

07-01-2012	#41
Z51JEFF Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Fremont,Ca Posts: 3,079	Re: Engine won't turn over when warm Corvette Express found one for me about a year ago but at $150 plus markup it was close to $200 by the time it was shipped to me.If you need one bad enough you might look them up,this place is in Vacaville Ca I think,your welcome.

07-01-2012	#42
Crusin Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Canada Posts: 69	Re: Engine won't turn over when warm Thanks for your reply Jeff. I will check them out to see if they have any available. CHEERS!

07-01-2012	#43
Paul Workman Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri Posts: 6,493	Solenoid relay? Back to the starting issue for a moment... FYI, A couple years back there was some chatter about the contacts inside the starter solinoid being a problem at about 40k miles (on average). This is the relay that connects the battery to the starter windings - 100s of amperes involved, and is what is what starter "rebuild kits" consist of. The contacts consist of a copper ring and two copper terminal posts. The copper ring (looks like a washer) is on a shaft that is slammed against the two copper terminals when the starter solenoid is activated to connect the battery to the starter windings. At issue is arching. The result of arching is pitting and carbon tracing severely pits and etches the copper ring as well as blasting molten material from the surface of the copper terminals. Over repeated usage, the electrical connections deteriorate to the point where the starter will "click", but because current sufficient to turn the starter is not flowing, the engine will not turn over. One can buy rebuild kits for the starter on ebay for under $10; consisting of a new armture & attached copper ring, as well as the two terminals. (Note: One word of caution regarding some of those kits: The (plunger) pin on the armature may not be exactly the same length as the stock one. However, the copper ring of the stock armature can easily be resurfaced with some emory paper wrapped around a small (block of wood). Then, replace the terminal pieces and adjust them so that the ring contacts them both at the same time, and reuse the stock armature. (12,000 miles since I did mine and still going strong!)) This may have nothing to do with the issue at hand, but for anyone pulling the plenum for some reason, and hasn't R&R'ed the starter solenoid contacts, then would be an ideal time to do so! FWIW, P. __________________ Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry

07-01-2012	#44
Crusin Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Canada Posts: 69	Re: Engine won't turn over when warm Thanks for your opinion Paul. The issue was solved after I bypassed the Neutral Safety Switch. I am now in the process of trying to find a NSW for a manual transmission. CHEERS!

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