How-to Swap the Motor Mounts?

[VetteMed]

I have been wondering if the lack of clearance between the #1 header tube and the steering shaft is due to sagging mounts, being that my car has a lot of miles on it.

I should have changed the mounts when the headers were off, but I didn't -- so now I'm left with wondering if I'm going to need to pull the headers off in order to change out the mounts or not. Does anyone know if it's doable with the headers (Jeal) in place?

Edit:
It's not doable. Pulling the headers is really not that bad of a job, and it gave the access needed to do this job properly. See later in thread for pics of mounts and more commentary.

[VetteMed]

Yeah, I just looked at the driver's side, might be doable. Can't tell on the passenger side just from looking from above. Might take some creative use of extensions and wrenches.

[A26B]

Don't forget the C-beam is attached, making the whole driveline one rigid unit. Jacking up the engine with the c-beam still secured could damage the c-beam or trans. When I tried jacking the engine with all attached, it acted like the motor mounts were still bolted to the frame. I suggest removing the c-beam before trying to jack the engine up. Does the service manual mention anything about that?

[VetteMed]

Yep, I figured the c-beam would have to come off the trans... thanks Jerry!

[VetteMed]

I pulled the headers off today, and removed the motor mounts. Here's what the original 20 year old mounts look like, next to the aftermarket new mounts:



As you can see, the mount is cleanly cracked right through the rubber.



You may also notice that the aftermarket mount is a few mm taller than the OEM mount, which in my case may be helpful, to help with header clearance near the steering shaft.

The OEM mounts are made in Japan, the aftermarket mounts are made in India. Quality seems OK, but on the mount I used for the passenger side, a little massaging with Mr. Angle Grinder was necessary for proper fit. The tube which slides into the bracket on the block, was a few mm too long, requiring some trimming.

[VetteMed]

Couple of pics of the motor mount area, without mount, for reference purposes:



With new mount installed:

[VetteMed]

Anchor 2902. I ordered a private label and a regular inventory closeout, they were the same part but one had a made in india sticker, the other did not, but had INDIA stamped debossed on the rubber portion of the mount.

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

hmm the one im trying to order is going up as a 2713 mount?

Yes, the rockauto catalog is wrong - it lists the L98 mount as the right part for the 90-91 ZR-1, but you need to look up the PN for the LT1 or the later ZR-1 to find the right 2902 part.

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Here is a Pioneer engine mount at Oreilly's
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2327&ppt=C0019

Pioneer engine mount at Summit Racing
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PIO-A2902/

Good to know -- looks like the same part as the Anchor unit, but who knows.

[Ccmano]

Andrew,

Now that the mounts are in have you noticed any less engine/drive train noise inside the car? I've beed wanting to do this for a while on mine as I get an unusual amount of drivetrain noise inside the car. I'm thinking the mounts are collapsed and there is metal to metal contact somewhere.
Did the header to steering shaft clearance get any better?
H