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#1 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Springfield, PA
Posts: 372
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Not a ZR1 install but all C4's are the same inside!
I was thinking about upgrading the stereo in my 1993 but I’m a complete novice when it comes to audio. As I did my research and ultimately the installation I took the following pictures and write up to document the process. Hope it helps someone! I had put up a post or two asking some audio questions, did a fair amount of reading and called on some members the vette community that I knew had audio knowledge. This research got me to a basic understanding of what I wanted to accomplish. In putting my questions out there a forum member offered me an Avic D3 for free. Thanks TIM! So I have a nice head unit, I decided to do 6X9 3 way speakers up front and 2 8” subs in the back. From looking at pictures of other C4 installations using 5.5” speakers, researching measurements of some 6X9s and taking apart the front speaker area to take measurements I felt I could make that work. Also my thoughts were the 3 way would give me mid and tweeter. I used the Rockford Forsgate RF R1693. Others had done 8” subs but I still checked the rear areas to make the 8” JBL GTO804 subs fit. I came across a free Alpine MRV100M for the subs. I used a Rockford Forsgate Prime R 150-2 to power the 6X9s. Here’s the start, always disconnect the battery! ![]() Original console area, I had an XM set up and a 12 disc CD changers both connected via FM modulators. ![]() Original right side front Bose speaker. ![]() Original left side front Bose speaker. ![]() Original Bose right side rear speaker. ![]() Original Bose left side rear speaker and 12 disc changer. ![]() Last edited by Rex Ruby; 06-15-2011 at 01:08 AM. |
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#2 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Springfield, PA
Posts: 372
|
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Console bezel removed.
![]() ![]() Bose head unit removed. ![]() First fitment of the Avic. Sits too far out, some of the internal plastic needs to be removed. ![]() The piece that needs to be removed. ![]() Piece of plastic is removed, I used a drill to drill holes along the edges. Be careful there are a lot of wires around that area! ![]() |
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Springfield, PA
Posts: 372
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Test fit with the bezel looks like it was made to fit! Now the trick is to mount the unit in the dash and have it line up this good!
![]() I have it mocked in and mounted in the dash and the bezel lines up perfect! But I have no wires behind there yet. I wanted to make sure it would at least fit before doing all the wiring. ![]() Rear Bose w/o the grille. ![]() Body cavity the subs will sit in. ![]() First mock up of the rear subs, I cut some ?? MDF to test the subs fit. The bottom of the sub was touching the car body so this mock up will need some more work. ![]() |
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Springfield, PA
Posts: 372
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Springfield, PA
Posts: 372
|
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Sub cavity done up with sound deadener.
![]() Left ready for sub install. ![]() Left sub installed. ![]() Right sub installed. ![]() You can see on the left side (right in pic) how I angled the MDF to change the sub?s mount angle a litte. Also you can see the 2 MDF strips in the back wall to mount the amp board. I glued these to the rear wall with PL polyurethane adhesive. ![]() Bare Bose in the front. ![]() |
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#6 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Springfield, PA
Posts: 372
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Wire connections on the 6X9s.
![]() I wanted to mount the 6X9s so the stock Bose grille would cover. When I mocked that up the 6X9 was sitting too far in and the magnet was sticking to the metal frame rail at the mounting location. I had to move the 6X9 out far enough so it was not too close to the metal frame rail. I was able to set this up so nothing was cut up too much and it could be returned to stock easily. Here is what I came up with using ?? MDF and piece for the each side. They only stick out an extra 1/2" from stock. ![]() ![]() I covered the outer MDF with a black fabric which matches the black grille that came with the 6x9s. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#7 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Springfield, PA
Posts: 372
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Now that the speakers are installed and the head unit mocked in it?s time to rum some wiring. I removed the drivers seat.
![]() Nice surprise here, some interior screws and bolts under the carper that must have been left there at Bowling Green! ![]() ![]() Here?s the power line run in the rear. I ran a ground all the way to the battery. ![]() |
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#8 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Springfield, PA
Posts: 372
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Power line up the frame rail.
![]() Power line out the door post to the battery. ![]() I bought a Metra kit to tap the power, ground, antenna output and antenna signal at the storage bin behind the pass seat. ![]() Running the speaker wires, RCA wires to the rear. ![]() As you saw previously I ran the 4 guage power wire up the left side of the car and all other wires ran down the right side frame rail into the back. Note: the front left speaker runs down the left side but I kept it way from the power wire as much as possible. ![]() Kind of hard to tell here but the head unit is secure. I used strapping and bent pieces 90 degrees connecting in side to the head unit and the other side to the stock mounting holes. ![]() |
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#9 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Springfield, PA
Posts: 372
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Start wiring the amps.
![]() Almost done wiring the amps. ![]() Amps wired. ![]() One of the connections for this unit was to the reverse lights. Using the manual I thought I had it located where it comes inside the car along the rear. I was thinking it was this light green wire but I was wrong! ![]() It came up over here on the side. ![]() |
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#10 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Springfield, PA
Posts: 372
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