How to re-set a timing chain tensioner.

[bdw18_123]

I remembered seeing a really good write up over at the "other" forum quite awhile ago (which we again can't link to, I thought that was fixed? ) on how to reset a timing chain tensioner with some good instructional pictures. It was done by someone with a forum name of ZR1 at that "other" forum. I decided to go looking for it since I need to reset my tensioners.

I know there is a write up on this subject in Haibeck's LT5 timing article and Dynomite did a write up also. But for me, this one just seems to explain it a bit better (no offense, guys!) so I thought I'd re-post it here for Dynomite's "Solutions" page.

The following was copied directly from the "other" forum's old thread (the thread is really old, it's from Aug 2001, I'm surprised the pics are still there):

Originally Posted by ZR1

A few folks have been asking me about how to reset the cam chain tensioners. It is relatively easy to do, but it is also a bit tricky. What it will do is save you several hundred dollars. I generally, on my car, do not replace the tensioners. However, on someone else's, I do unless they just don't want to pay the extra dollars. Regardless, here are some pictures I hope will help you if you ever release the tension on the chains for whatever reason.

There are basically three parts to a tensioner. There is the tensioner housing, the tensioner spring, and the tensioner plunger. The two tensioners are specific for a side but they both are built the same way.




Now, on the plunger there are two clips, basically a thin spring wire going around the plunger. These are the transport rings. These rings fit into grooves inside of the tensioner housing to lock the tensioner plunger in place for installation into the block.


Now, to put the transport rings into the proper place you will slide the outermost ring around a small lip, towards the center of the plunger. The center transport ring you will slide towards the outside of the plunger. So, both transport rings are closest together that they can go. You then slide the spring inside the plunger and the plunger into the tensioner housing.




Next, take the whole piece and put it into a vise. You will slowly close the vise compressing the spring inside the tensioner housing. You will hear some clicking sounds from it. That is normal. Now, the hard part is when the outside ring is going into the tensioner housing. You will need two very thin bladed screwdrivers to hold the transport ring in place. You do not want the transport ring to slide off the lip and into the groove on the plunger. Slowly close the vise, holding the transport ring in place with the screwdrivers. You will hear a very small click. What has happened is either the transport ring locked in place inside the tensioner housing or it slipped off. Don't worry, it does this a lot. So what you will do is to ever so slowly, open the vise up until the outer transport ring is visible. Do not go too far or you will have to disassemble the entire thing and start over. Just back it out a little bit. You will then need to slip the ring back over the lip towards the center and repeat the closing process.




When everything works right, you will have a reset cam chain tensioner.




Now there is a "kit" to supposedly help with what is called cam chain rattle or slap. It goes on the passenger side of the motor and fits where the stock tensioner housings fit. The part number is PN #12550580. You can get it at your local GM dealer or order it from Tom Henry.

(This kit is no longer available from GM. I believe Kurt White has replicated this kit and has some available, I don't know if they are available anywhere else. Check Dynomite's "Solutions" thread for links to threads about this kit.)