I think I?m in deep 💩 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

RSLyrick · 8 Hours Ago

The SES / Check Engine bulb should light up briefly when you turn your key to ignition position. This is a good indication that the ECM is live and capable of controlling this bulb. Please double check (it is really fast).

If the Security light goes off, it means that the system recognized your key and FEDS was sucessfull as well (otherwise you would see SYS and SECURITY flashing together).

The secondaries vacuum pump buzzing is normal. The radiator fans have no reasons to start if the engine is cold. Are you maybe talking about the AC / blower running ? Try turning it off immediately after turning the key to get the environnement as quiet as possible.

To do the test in a quiet environnement. If your secondaries vacuum pump has a leak, it may run almost continuously, making too much noise for you to focus on the sound of the fuel pumps.

If the fuel pumps are running, that's another indication that your ECM is alive.

To get some diagnotic code out, short pin A and B from the DLC connector.

The CCM will display Err when attempting to display ECM DTCs for the LT5 engine.

You will readout codes by counting the amount of time the SES light is flashing.

Once you have grounded the diagnostic pin (A to B), turn the key to ignition.

Look at the SES light. It will start with a code 12 indicating that the diagnostic system works properly:

- 1 flash / waiting time / 2 flashes

This will happen 3 times.

Then stored codes will also be shown to you in the very same way (exemple DTC 32)

- 3 flashes / waiting time / 2 flashes

This will happen 3 times for a specific code, longue pause before repetition, then moving to the next stored code if any

For the diagnostic code of the CCM, litterally from the book.

To display CCM DTCs, select the Display DTCs mode by pressing the TRIP/ODO button until 1.1 appears in the trip monitor area of the cluster. Then, press the ENG/MET button to display the first DTC. Continue pressing the ENG/MET button to display
additional CCM DTCs, until the End-Of-Information indicator (---) is displayed in the speedometer. A C12 indicates no stored DTCs for the CCM. If it is necessary to go backward in the list, use the "FUEL INFO? button. The top of the DTC list will be
indicated by the --- display in the speedometer.

Yes, I will personnaly scream, get the books ! Second best investement in your life after the ZR-1 ! Lots of details and explanation about how your car actually works and how to investigate issues. I got the printed ones from Rockauto (DETROIT IRON editions), very good. And the digital version from another website, because it's much easier to look for info with the quick search function of a PDF reader. I sometimes read litterally like a standard book cause there so many interesting infos in it. Not like today's car repair book...

And check this fuel rail leakage at valve...not a good idea to attempt to start the car if you clearly see that there is a problem there. It will either run poorly, stall and it will completly hide the electrical issues that you may have

Also, Is the engine cranking ? Is the starter doing its job ? If you have a faulty starter, you may just hear a "click click" noise with no crank at all, or simply...nothing at all.

8 Hours Ago	#20
RSLyrick Join Date: Oct 2023 Location: Germany Posts: 13	Re: I think I?m in deep 💩 The SES / Check Engine bulb should light up briefly when you turn your key to ignition position. This is a good indication that the ECM is live and capable of controlling this bulb. Please double check (it is really fast). If the Security light goes off, it means that the system recognized your key and FEDS was sucessfull as well (otherwise you would see SYS and SECURITY flashing together). The secondaries vacuum pump buzzing is normal. The radiator fans have no reasons to start if the engine is cold. Are you maybe talking about the AC / blower running ? Try turning it off immediately after turning the key to get the environnement as quiet as possible. To do the test in a quiet environnement. If your secondaries vacuum pump has a leak, it may run almost continuously, making too much noise for you to focus on the sound of the fuel pumps. If the fuel pumps are running, that's another indication that your ECM is alive. To get some diagnotic code out, short pin A and B from the DLC connector. The CCM will display Err when attempting to display ECM DTCs for the LT5 engine. You will readout codes by counting the amount of time the SES light is flashing. Once you have grounded the diagnostic pin (A to B), turn the key to ignition. Look at the SES light. It will start with a code 12 indicating that the diagnostic system works properly: - 1 flash / waiting time / 2 flashes This will happen 3 times. Then stored codes will also be shown to you in the very same way (exemple DTC 32) - 3 flashes / waiting time / 2 flashes This will happen 3 times for a specific code, longue pause before repetition, then moving to the next stored code if any For the diagnostic code of the CCM, litterally from the book. To display CCM DTCs, select the Display DTCs mode by pressing the TRIP/ODO button until 1.1 appears in the trip monitor area of the cluster. Then, press the ENG/MET button to display the first DTC. Continue pressing the ENG/MET button to display additional CCM DTCs, until the End-Of-Information indicator (---) is displayed in the speedometer. A C12 indicates no stored DTCs for the CCM. If it is necessary to go backward in the list, use the "FUEL INFO? button. The top of the DTC list will be indicated by the --- display in the speedometer. Yes, I will personnaly scream, get the books ! Second best investement in your life after the ZR-1 ! Lots of details and explanation about how your car actually works and how to investigate issues. I got the printed ones from Rockauto (DETROIT IRON editions), very good. And the digital version from another website, because it's much easier to look for info with the quick search function of a PDF reader. I sometimes read litterally like a standard book cause there so many interesting infos in it. Not like today's car repair book... And check this fuel rail leakage at valve...not a good idea to attempt to start the car if you clearly see that there is a problem there. It will either run poorly, stall and it will completly hide the electrical issues that you may have Also, Is the engine cranking ? Is the starter doing its job ? If you have a faulty starter, you may just hear a "click click" noise with no crank at all, or simply...nothing at all.