Jasco Lumbar pump repair...

[ZR1Vette]

In the 'ZR-1 How To- portion of this web site is a description on how to repair the Jasco pump...since it appears that Jasco is no longer I went ahead and tried the 'latex glove' approach...which I was very skeptical of...using the thumb portion of a glove for a pump diaphragm Any way I tried it and IT WORKS... I am simply providing a few pics in support of the repair text written by others...
Here is the text from one of the 'How To'..

A very common problem with the C4 sport seat is the failure of the pump that inflates the lumbar bladders internal to the back of the seat. The most prevalent failure is not the pump assembly, but simply the diaphragm within the pump sub-assembly. To gain access to the pump, look under the front of the seat and there will be a wire clip that holds the bottom seat cushion in place. Push this clip down and back and then lift the bottom cushion and position it so you can see underneath. Next, follow the air tubes from the lumbar support switch and bleed console (right side bolster) to the pump. Remove the three small bolts that hold the pump to the seat frame. Note, it is easier to remove if you use the seat adjustment on the console to lift the front of the seat to get your hand in. These screws must be removed from the bottom as the nuts visible from the top are set into a hex shaped depression in the plastic. Once the pump is free, disconnect the two power connections (disconnect the battery first) and then disconnect the three tubes from the pump. The pump should now be free to remove from the car and take into a work area where you won't lose all the small parts that you will have during disassembly.
To access the diaphragm, remove the two small Phillips head screws at the pump end of the motor and remove the access plate. Make note of the orientation of the three tube nipples in relation to the pump housing and then slide the pump sub-assembly out of the housing while carefully making sure that the plunger slides off the crankshaft of the motor at the same time. Once the pump sub-assembly is free of the housing, you will quickly find out if the diaphragm is torn as is usually the problem with these pumps. Remove the four Phillips screws that hold the pump sub-assembly halves together and then remove the diaphragm. This is a good time to take the motor back out to the car without the pump sub-assembly, plug in the two connectors, re-connect the battery and ensure that the motor runs. If not, then you will need to replace the entire pump. Disconnect the battery again prior to removal.
There are two ways to fix the diaphragm, by making a replacement using household items and a more expensive way using replacement parts. GM would like you to buy the entire pump assembly at more then $130 rather then fix the diaphragm. However, you can buy the pump subassembly from Jasco Products (original supplier to GM) in Sun Valley, CA for around $33. The second more creative fix, it to use a dish washing glove to make a new diaphragm (make sure you wife isn't looking when you take the glove). Trace the outside diameter of the original diaphragm onto the flat portion of the glove and then cut out the circle (approximately a 19/32 inch radius). Next, remove the screw and the sealing washer just under the screw head from the plunger. You will find the center of the old diaphragm in the recess of the plunger, leave this in place to fill the recess. Next, punch a hole in the center of your new diaphragm with a pin and then push the screw with the sealing washer through the diaphragm and then attach to the plunger. The final assembly order should be: screw, sealing washer, new diaphragm, old diaphragm center piece, sealing washer, plunger. Finally, put the diaphragm into the pump sub-assembly halves. To ensure the correct alignment of the plunger, put a drill bit through the hole in the plunger where it slides onto the crankshaft. The hole should line up with the previously noted position of the tube nipples, i.e., the drill bit should be perpendicular to the tube nipples. (Failure to get this hole in the correct orientation will cause the pump to bind.) Now screw the two halves back together with the four screws previously removed. Put a small dab of grease on the crankshaft (the grease used should be compatible with rubber) and then slide the pump sub-assembly back into the housing while making sure that the plunger slides onto the pin of the crankshaft. Once again, take the pump out to the car and plug in the connectors to make sure the pump operates correctly. Re-install the cover plate and then re-install the pump into the seat by reversing the removal operation.

And here are some pics to help you thru the text part...
First here is the pump removed>>


And here is the access panel to the pump diaphragm area removed (held in place by two small phillip head screws

P> shows the plunger torn from the diaphragm (membrane) and jammed to one side and <M shows the torn membrane (diaphragm)

Here is the pump diassembled and the remains of the diaphragm


This is the thumb piece from a medium duty shop glove (not trimmed to size yet) where the plunger set screw has been past thru the end...it is sealed with a gasket on the piece inside the thumb piece and a gasket on the plunger sitting above yet installed (just screws in place)..


And here is the assembled pump (end cover obviously not installed yet)..


I hooked up to 12v source and it works...just pumps out air like it is supposed to... funny..simple yet effective

Michael