08-16-2014 | #22 |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,786
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Re: Sagging headliner ... (snappics)
Now carefully flip the boards, and repeat the 3-strip tape procedure. You shouldn't be able to raise the second board very high at all now, because the first taped side is now binding. The masking tape will SLIGHTLY stretch however.
Now put another strip of tape vertically along the adjoined edges of the 2 boards, across the 3 strips, on both sides. Tape from end to end (exceeding the 24" size of the template). Press down well, and THEN SLIDE THE BACK OF YOUR FINGERNAIL UP AND DOWN THE TAPE, ALONG THE JOINT OF THE 2 BOARDS. With the joint binding, it probably is not perfectly joined level. This will accomplish that. Do it both sides. Now tape the paper frame template to the 2 foam boards, and trace the outline LIGHTLY on the boards. The template doesn't have to be exactly centered on the foam board. No snappic here; I didn't use a paper template - I used the board cutaway from my painted top re-enforcement. You now need a VERY SHARP knife - preferably a single edge razor. DO NOT CUT THE TEMPLATE LINE. Cut approximately 1/4", OR MORE, OUTSIDE of the template line, for 2 reasons: 1) you have to allow for the compound convex of the top surface, and 2) allow for error. Cut slowly. Probably DON'T attempt to cut all the way through on the first pass. I didn't even cut on the first pass; I scored a line, with my Victorinox blade reversed. This cut will require patience too. Even in front of a single edge, the foam can 'bunch up', in front of the blade (another reason to go 1/4", at least, outside the template line). You might also want to not cut all the way through; rather cut until there's an outline on the backside, then complete the cut from the other side. The cut edge of the board can be, and will need sanding. I used 120-grit paper. A sanding sponge of comparable grit will work well. Sandpaper will be needed anyway, for the concave forward corners. Before you start sanding, do a trial fit ALMOST inside the Glasstop frame, to get an idea of where you need to focus sanding. Don't press it all the way into the frame; you might not be able to get it out without mangling it. And while sanding, remember that you want to leave slight excess. You can always take it down further, but it's not easy to put it back on once sanded off. Maybe another reason to buy 4 sheets, when they're only $1.25 each. Don't worry if you go a little deep with sanding; the headliner screen's felt will need some real estate. After sanding, I put another strip of masking tape all the way around the foam board, at the joint, to give it just a little more 'strength'. Remember tho', tape is all that's holding the 2 pieces together. Mine seems somewhat sturdy, with moderate handling. Once the felt is applied with the adhesive, and wrapped around, it should have the strength of a single piece of foam. But DO remember this when removing, and installing. Keep your hand with your fingers spread out well, in the center, when removing the screen...
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I'm getting my snappics / threads removed blindly as fast as I can, to get in compliance with copyright / license TOS on the boards here (lots of FSM pages and other copyright / license violations on my part; sorry guys). And thanks to all the guys who didn't whine when I posted those FSM copyrighted / licensed stuff in my threads... ( :thumbsup: [b]and to think I complied with a mod's request to delete a pic of him in a Challenge Car in NCM Museum, so he wouldn't get in hot water)[/b] Thanks to several guys here for sending parts FREE; BearlyFlying, WeGone, Geezer, GoldCylon, and more there, TonyD, mike100, fletchusmc... 1990 #2794; 4L60e Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless, Power Effects 3" [IMG]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GHpfzty7DVU/UQn-0Ru2xAI/AAAAAAAAA14/08mz1p4QLD4/s445/Screenshot-5.png[/IMG] Last edited by Schrade; 10-14-2014 at 02:06 PM. |
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