My '90 ZR-1 project update thread - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

bdw18_123 · 02-23-2011

Also, because the '91-'93 style sport seat only has a seat control on one side, I had to cut a hole in the other side since the '90 sport seat has two controls, one in each bolster. I just copied the way GM cut the hole.

Then I removed the black, plastic holder things from the old seat cover and attached them to the leather with some heavy-duty staples. I had to put in the staples by hand because the staple gun I have wouldn't make the staple go through the plastic.

The bladders in the seats were actually still intact except for right at the spot where the tubes plug into them, where they were cracked and disintegrating. I decided to try to repair them with some of "The Right Stuff" RTV. Worked out pretty well and they hold air now.

With the driver's side seat bottom and back covers installed, I got to work on the rest of the seat assembly. Removed the old bolster covers and installed the "new" ones. Then cleaned up the plastic seat back, bottom and seat track.

Before I put the seat back together, I temporarily hooked up all the plugs in the seat and hooked a battery to the power supply connector of the seat so I could test all the functions. Surprisingly, all the functions worked, even the air pump. The only thing I had to do was clean and lubricate the power seat recliner at the worm gear assembly, it was a little gummed up and the motor was having a hard time moving the seat back.

With that done, I reassembled the seat, then installed the driver's seat track in the car. I found it is better to install the seat track separately from the rest of the seat; it's easier to get to the mounting bolts that way.

Driver's seat finished and installed in the car.

02-23-2011	#11
bdw18_123 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Prather, CA Posts: 809	Also, because the '91-'93 style sport seat only has a seat control on one side, I had to cut a hole in the other side since the '90 sport seat has two controls, one in each bolster. I just copied the way GM cut the hole. Then I removed the black, plastic holder things from the old seat cover and attached them to the leather with some heavy-duty staples. I had to put in the staples by hand because the staple gun I have wouldn't make the staple go through the plastic. The bladders in the seats were actually still intact except for right at the spot where the tubes plug into them, where they were cracked and disintegrating. I decided to try to repair them with some of "The Right Stuff" RTV. Worked out pretty well and they hold air now. With the driver's side seat bottom and back covers installed, I got to work on the rest of the seat assembly. Removed the old bolster covers and installed the "new" ones. Then cleaned up the plastic seat back, bottom and seat track. Before I put the seat back together, I temporarily hooked up all the plugs in the seat and hooked a battery to the power supply connector of the seat so I could test all the functions. Surprisingly, all the functions worked, even the air pump. The only thing I had to do was clean and lubricate the power seat recliner at the worm gear assembly, it was a little gummed up and the motor was having a hard time moving the seat back. With that done, I reassembled the seat, then installed the driver's seat track in the car. I found it is better to install the seat track separately from the rest of the seat; it's easier to get to the mounting bolts that way. Driver's seat finished and installed in the car. __________________ [IMG]http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/_zr1netforumsigphoto.jpg[/IMG][B] 1990 Corvette ZR-1 [/B][I] White/Flame Red, #2299, mostly stock, 144K miles.[/I] -Cams timed to the '93-'95 405HP LT5 stock timing. -IAT sensor relocated to below front bumper. -Haibeck hoops installed in airduct. -OBX cat-back exhaust. [COLOR=DarkRed][B](SOLD - December 2012 [/B][/COLOR][COLOR=DarkRed][B]:hello:)[/B][/COLOR] 1993 Corvette Coupe Black/Black, 6-speed (SOLD - October 2009 :hello:)