![]() |
#1 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 7,181
|
![]()
Can I use High Tack on this gasket to get in place?
If so, do i high tack it to the pump or front cover? if I cannot use that, what do you suggest to getting the gasket set in place
__________________
1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Flowmaster Cats - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Shelby Series 1 - Wilwood Brakes Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 | |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,491
|
![]() Quote:
I'm generally a fan of "contact cement" (by any other name); used it on SBCs and BBCs for years, and most lately on my LT5 water pump. The contact cement really holds the gasket in place, and can survive some minor bumping, etc. w/o moving as the mating surface is jostled into place. I put the contact stuff on the LT5 pump, in this case. I figured if I ever had to scrape it off, it would be easier to put the pump in my lap on on the bench to work on (and hit it first with the 3M Adhesive Remover) ![]() I also like to put a very thin film of blue RTV (silicone) gasket on the other surface and let it set up before installing the part. The RTV (IMO) enhances the seal - especially water, it allows easy removal of the part, and many times the gasket remains intact (attached to the contact cement side) and can be re-used with another very thin application of RTV upon reassembly. I don't do this engine assembly stuff for a living, i.e., those that do might have a better idea. But, IMO the sticky stuff is a great way to keep gaskets from squirming around - especially on plenums or parts where temperatures fluctuate between parts after a while. Sticky stuff is good stuff - just my experience over more years than I care to admit ![]() ![]() ![]() P.
__________________
[I][COLOR="Blue"]Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez![/COLOR][/I] 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Shillington, Penna.
Posts: 67
|
![]()
Hi Jeff,
I used the medium tack that takes 3 hours to dry so I had time to work the pump. First applied a film to the gasket, then pump, pressed in place and allowed 3 hours to set. Then applied a this film to the mating surface of the block and the gasket, bolted finger tight, then torque to spec. Still have a leak, as posted, but its not from the pump gasket seal.
__________________
[FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium]Ralph E. Weise [/FONT]:) '92 ZR-1#473 Red/Red |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 7,181
|
![]()
thanks guys
__________________
1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Flowmaster Cats - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Shelby Series 1 - Wilwood Brakes Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]()
I have been using Hondabond HT with gaskets for waterpump, plenum, cam covers, etc. and love it. I'm going to continue using it for my rebuild this time too. I did not know how well it would worked until the last time I used it and took off the waterpump yesterday. Easy removal and seals like a champ. It is actually used where gaskets are not used like cam covers and split cases, but I always use a thin layer on the gaskets so like others have said, no issues with a like product.
|
![]() |
![]() |
|
|