09-09-2009 | #21 | |
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fremont,Ca
Posts: 3,080
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Re: Paint work
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09-09-2009 | #22 |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,096
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Re: Paint work
[quote=Jeffvette;70479]Thanks for the tips. I've checked on front bumpers from GM, and they have been discontinued..... Finding a decent used one will be a problem as well, and I've seen the repops. They all require work
You can find one, I got a new one years ago for another Corvette for $250. Normal price is about $400. Scour Ebay and ask your insurance agent for an adjusters number, they know where to get the good used ones. I would call Art's Corvettes in Florida. (954) 763-1123 or (954) 763-9911. If he doesn't have one, he can direct you. It might take a dozen or so phone calls but they are out there. |
09-09-2009 | #23 | |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,096
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Re: Paint work
Quote:
Sometimes the devil you know is better then the devil you don't know. This is at least true on the rear bumpers anyway. I think its true on the front bumpers too which is why you can almost always tell when a C4 has has had its bumper replaced. Granted though, alot of the cases are when the body shop misaligned the bumper. It's not that easy though to align and you often have to shim it to get it perfect. Even factory corvettes sometimes have various gaps and variations on the parts. I didn't analysis the photo for 5 minutes but to me, the damage is extremely minimal. In my opinion, less body work done on a car and swapping of parts, is better. Last edited by xlr8nflorida; 09-09-2009 at 03:34 AM. |
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09-09-2009 | #24 | |
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fremont,Ca
Posts: 3,080
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Re: Paint work
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09-09-2009 | #25 | |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Mauriceville, Texas
Posts: 179
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Re: Paint work
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All of the above does not apply if you pay someone else to do it.
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Clint aka billybaloneey '94 - C4 ZR-1 #445 - Black/Black '05 - C6 silver/black 6sp '85 - C4 white/graphite (almost done) automatic '78 - C3 silver/black (a work in progress) automatic |
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09-09-2009 | #26 |
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Ideho
Posts: 2,653
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Re: Paint work
Jeff,
You know the people at Rose City Corvette Club, right? Somebody there has had paintwork done and are happy with it. If you start asking, you will probably find most of them might be using the same paint shop because they don't **** up their Vettes. If you've already done this, then forget about it. John
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[I][FONT=Comic Sans MS]John Boyd[/FONT][/I] [I][FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=1]Ideho[/SIZE][/FONT][/I] [FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=1][I]2015 ZL1 [/I][I]Camaro #1121 BLACK/BLACK 6 SPD (540 RWHP)[/I][/SIZE][/FONT] [I][FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=1]1991 ZR-1 #458 [COLOR=red]RED/[/COLOR][COLOR=black]BLACK 72[/COLOR]k miles ([B][COLOR=red]SOLD[/COLOR][/B]) 1991 ZR-1 #473 [COLOR=red]RED/[/COLOR][COLOR=black]BLACK [/COLOR]37k miles ([B][COLOR=red]SOLD[/COLOR][/B])[/SIZE][/FONT][/I] |
09-18-2009 | #27 |
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Kalamazoo MI
Posts: 1,754
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Re: Paint work
Just take 180 and use a block at firts until you get the hang of it the da is agressive and can burn right through, Go to your local auto body paint store get the soft pads that you wrap paper around and get some hard ones for the flat areas.
I also used old pieces of radiator hoses to get round countours like the hood areas that are curved. There were areas I sanded mine down to the yellow in places because it was that bad with rock chips Now you can take the da with the 180 to get the top layers off go down to the primer thats fine, but then you come back with the 400 grit and sand it all smooth, areas like the cracked paint will need a good 2 pak primer to build that area up then it would need to be sanded back down level this is all stuff you can do if you have the gun and a good water oil proof air system the filters for the air are the expensive part haha once you get the basic areas primed and blocked flat then I would prime the entire part let it dry then go over it with a mist coat of black spray paint or you can buy no kidding guide coat and then you sand it once more to make sure its perfect. almost all of your primer you shoot will end up back on the ground. The body shop will shoot the parts with a sealer and then base coat clear coat them. I highly recomend doing this work with the parts off of the car after the end red it shot you can mask off the hood and have them repaint the undside of it needs it. oh and I used sherwin williams automotive paints when I did mine and 3m sand paper
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JOHNNY P Currently own 90 ZR-1 #845 DRM 500 engine package 90 #226 Parts car Hit me up if you need anything. Last edited by phrogs; 09-18-2009 at 02:24 PM. |
01-05-2010 | #28 |
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: sotogrande spain
Posts: 38
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Re: Paint work
my 90 red ZR-1 is pretty sharp, but the upper rear body panel (the one which houses the rear lights) just looks so dull and plasticy. In fact when you feel it and press it, it seems as if it is just a thin piece of plastic! Has anyone any idea how this could be brought back to a glossy shine to match the rest of the bodywork?
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01-05-2010 | #29 | |
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Ideho
Posts: 2,653
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Re: Paint work
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Try just rubbing the paint gently with a little with your favorite wax on one finger, wipe it off and if the clearcoat starts to get a little brighter then you can probably bring it back with some waxing and specialized products. I can highly recommend Adams wax products. Your car will outshine all others, guaranteed. http://www.adamspolishes.com/default.aspx Look over some of the videos and then see if you think you might be able to bring the clearcoat back. Give them a call (if you can) and they will help. Adams also has some terrific forums that are always helpful. Join in, post up and you will get a lot of help there too. I would suggest the forums prior to buying. Take some good pictures of the paint before posting also. http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/index.php Watch it though, you could become a waxer. Good Luck
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[I][FONT=Comic Sans MS]John Boyd[/FONT][/I] [I][FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=1]Ideho[/SIZE][/FONT][/I] [FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=1][I]2015 ZL1 [/I][I]Camaro #1121 BLACK/BLACK 6 SPD (540 RWHP)[/I][/SIZE][/FONT] [I][FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=1]1991 ZR-1 #458 [COLOR=red]RED/[/COLOR][COLOR=black]BLACK 72[/COLOR]k miles ([B][COLOR=red]SOLD[/COLOR][/B]) 1991 ZR-1 #473 [COLOR=red]RED/[/COLOR][COLOR=black]BLACK [/COLOR]37k miles ([B][COLOR=red]SOLD[/COLOR][/B])[/SIZE][/FONT][/I] |
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01-06-2010 | #30 | |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,096
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Re: Paint work
Quote:
The real answer is to see if you can hit it with a buffer or wet sand it. Worse case scenario its a repaint at $250-$500. You will laugh but I had this stuff called "body shine" It was pink in color. My car was a stunning red because of the Pinnacle wax. I would wipe the body shine on the car and it made the bumper look like new again. It would have to be applied each time you washed the car and the downside was that it also had a tendency to collect dust and dirt (more so then normal) However, if you had a date or wanted your car to look good (instead of dull) it worked like a charm. Bottom line is many front/rear bumpers fade first because of the rubber bumper. More then likely if you are picky, it will require a repaint to get like new again. The equivalent today would probably be adams body polish or Zaino Z6 or Z8. Good Luck. Last edited by xlr8nflorida; 01-06-2010 at 12:27 AM. |
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