Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

LGAFF · 07-22-2009

Well been through hell and back with the Cylinder slave and clutch master cylinder. For the newby this is not an easy job.....The clutch master cylinder must be released from the clutch pedal, so the drivers side kick panel must be removed, and then a deep dive inside to find it.

The Clutch slave hose is a PITA to remove as it is bolted to the firewall with a 7MM screw. Biggest pain in the AZZ was the slave cylinder.....the aftermarket one I used is cast so it is much larger than the OEM. I had to fight it to get it in the right position, it is blocked by part of the trans, and CATs make putting the nuts on the screws a pain....especially on your back. I had to grind down part of the body so I could get a socket on the nut.

Needless to say, the first time I positioned the slave cylinder, the rod slipped off the seat and bent...so I had to transfer the OE.

The aftermarket one from Rock Auto appears to be crap....so I anticipate it will not last long. If you can find a smaller one similiar to OE it would be much better to work with....

Sgreg · 07-22-2009

The aftermarket one from Rock Auto appears to be crap....so I anticipate it will not last long. If you can find a smaller one similiar to OE it would be much better to work with....[/quote]

If anyone needs one of the AC Delco original slaves, I have one to sell. They are not a bargain but I will sell mine for what I paid, $149. Lee is right about the tight spaces.

07-22-2009

And people have been praising the aftermarket versions. Helps to use a set of longer studs where it mounts, and then I have never installed one with Factory cats, but it is a tight fit in general.

LGAFF · 07-22-2009

Longer studs might be a plus, but then again it might make it impossible to fit in........I just took the one off my 92 with headers it was easy....

Should the Clutch slave be a bitch to hold down to bolt it on?

Kb7tif · 07-22-2009

Its normal for some pressure. Have you added fluid yet. These should bleed out quite easily. You Shoulnt Have to pump the $%^* out of these Either. Pm me. Partsladi has gm masters for pry less then rock auto.

LGAFF · 07-22-2009

Its on the car, and fluid in....just surprised the pressure needed to put it on dry.....although the angle is a tough one.

rhipsher · 07-22-2009

Theres a cylinder that sticks out of the transmission that blocks the slave from coming straight out so I've found it easier to unscrew the two studs from the bell housing which is probably why they made them removable then it comes out easy. But you will need an extension and a swivel. Also Lee reverse bleeding is much better than having to pump pump and pump till the preasure builds back up. Just take an automotive cerenge with a hose that will fit snug on the bleed screw. Fill the cerenge up with clutch fluid. Open the bleed screw and pump the fluid in. Have a buddy watch as the master cylinder resevour as it starts to fill . And when there are no more air bubbles coming up though the master then fill it up the rest of the way and your done. It takes maybe 5 minutes and your done.

Pete · 07-22-2009

Lee,you should've called me,what i did was remove the new seals from the Rock Auto slave and installed them in the OE slave no more leaks and works great.

Also FWIW the Rock Auto cast slave has a steel piston in it the OE is aluminum i would think the steel piece would get hotter.

Pete

Kb7tif · 07-22-2009

Figures I open my mouth about clutch master slave, and i will be dammed i had a spongy peddle for the first half of my cruise today. Air came out after a while, checked the master, out. that will do it.
I have pulled the trans twice, pulled the plenum,seats ect. Never thought to check the master.

bldavis11 · 07-28-2009

Lee,

Which master and clutch from Rock Auto did you go with? They list multiple manufacturers, including AC Delco. I'm about to drop the money on this as well.

Ben

07-22-2009	#1
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,194	Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder Well been through hell and back with the Cylinder slave and clutch master cylinder. For the newby this is not an easy job.....The clutch master cylinder must be released from the clutch pedal, so the drivers side kick panel must be removed, and then a deep dive inside to find it. The Clutch slave hose is a PITA to remove as it is bolted to the firewall with a 7MM screw. Biggest pain in the AZZ was the slave cylinder.....the aftermarket one I used is cast so it is much larger than the OEM. I had to fight it to get it in the right position, it is blocked by part of the trans, and CATs make putting the nuts on the screws a pain....especially on your back. I had to grind down part of the body so I could get a socket on the nut. Needless to say, the first time I positioned the slave cylinder, the rod slipped off the seat and bent...so I had to transfer the OE. The aftermarket one from Rock Auto appears to be crap....so I anticipate it will not last long. If you can find a smaller one similiar to OE it would be much better to work with.... __________________ LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359 Last edited by LGAFF; 07-22-2009 at 12:26 AM.

07-22-2009	#2
Sgreg Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 518	Re: Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder The aftermarket one from Rock Auto appears to be crap....so I anticipate it will not last long. If you can find a smaller one similiar to OE it would be much better to work with....[/quote] If anyone needs one of the AC Delco original slaves, I have one to sell. They are not a bargain but I will sell mine for what I paid, $149. Lee is right about the tight spaces. __________________ 1991 ZR-1, Black, Black, # 541

07-22-2009	#3
Jeffvette Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder And people have been praising the aftermarket versions. Helps to use a set of longer studs where it mounts, and then I have never installed one with Factory cats, but it is a tight fit in general.

07-22-2009	#4
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,194	Re: Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder Longer studs might be a plus, but then again it might make it impossible to fit in........I just took the one off my 92 with headers it was easy.... Should the Clutch slave be a bitch to hold down to bolt it on? __________________ LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359

07-22-2009	#5
Kb7tif Join Date: May 2009 Location: S Nevada Posts: 352	Re: Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder Its normal for some pressure. Have you added fluid yet. These should bleed out quite easily. You Shoulnt Have to pump the $%^* out of these Either. Pm me. Partsladi has gm masters for pry less then rock auto. __________________ 1995 Convertible Supercharged Auto 1974 454 550hp (avatar car) On the blocks- -Scharger install ! 1992-Zr-1 Sold. Watson Headers Ported Plenum, Housings Random tech cats Fidanza Flywheel Chipped, Relocated Mat Woods 165 stat Borlas, Straights 1996 Lt4 Sold 1994 Lt1 Sold 2004 Z06 Sold AKA** Illenema

07-22-2009	#7
rhipsher Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Houston 90 Red ZR-1 Posts: 2,320	Re: Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder Theres a cylinder that sticks out of the transmission that blocks the slave from coming straight out so I've found it easier to unscrew the two studs from the bell housing which is probably why they made them removable then it comes out easy. But you will need an extension and a swivel. Also Lee reverse bleeding is much better than having to pump pump and pump till the preasure builds back up. Just take an automotive cerenge with a hose that will fit snug on the bleed screw. Fill the cerenge up with clutch fluid. Open the bleed screw and pump the fluid in. Have a buddy watch as the master cylinder resevour as it starts to fill . And when there are no more air bubbles coming up though the master then fill it up the rest of the way and your done. It takes maybe 5 minutes and your done. Last edited by rhipsher; 07-22-2009 at 09:08 AM.

07-22-2009	#8
Pete Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Chicagoland,IL Posts: 2,679	Re: Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder Lee,you should've called me,what i did was remove the new seals from the Rock Auto slave and installed them in the OE slave no more leaks and works great. Also FWIW the Rock Auto cast slave has a steel piston in it the OE is aluminum i would think the steel piece would get hotter. Pete __________________ '91 #1635 PoloGreen 350 LT5 11.09 @ 129.27 11.04 @ 128.86 474RWHP 400RWTQ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFNFOhGGlR4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlRIOMwaDYY https://sites.google.com/site/peteszr1garage Last edited by Pete; 07-22-2009 at 12:35 PM.

07-22-2009	#9
Kb7tif Join Date: May 2009 Location: S Nevada Posts: 352	Re: Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder Figures I open my mouth about clutch master slave, and i will be dammed i had a spongy peddle for the first half of my cruise today. Air came out after a while, checked the master, out. that will do it. I have pulled the trans twice, pulled the plenum,seats ect. Never thought to check the master. __________________ 1995 Convertible Supercharged Auto 1974 454 550hp (avatar car) On the blocks- -Scharger install ! 1992-Zr-1 Sold. Watson Headers Ported Plenum, Housings Random tech cats Fidanza Flywheel Chipped, Relocated Mat Woods 165 stat Borlas, Straights 1996 Lt4 Sold 1994 Lt1 Sold 2004 Z06 Sold AKA** Illenema Last edited by Kb7tif; 07-22-2009 at 08:10 PM.

07-28-2009	#10
bldavis11 Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Portsmouth, VA Posts: 245	Re: Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder Lee, Which master and clutch from Rock Auto did you go with? They list multiple manufacturers, including AC Delco. I'm about to drop the money on this as well. Ben