To Replace the Rad or Not Replace The Rad? - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Pqtaces · 07-03-2009

I was told I need to have my radiator removed and cleaned (My car runs hot in any driving other than constant frwy speeds of over 60 mph). I was looking at replacing the radiator with a new high capacity one as my mechanic told me it is a good idea and would make the car run about 20 degrees cooler (its Guldstrands, so they know what they are talking about).

In a previous post someone said it was a waste of money to replace it unless you are racing (which I am not). My 1991 Z has 95k on it and my biggest reason for replacing it is to hopefully extend the life of the engine. Since I have to have the rad out for cleaning anyway the labor of the replacement is a non issue. My question is whether everyone thinks the $500 or so for the new rad is worth it or is it truly a waste and I am better off putting the $ toward a fun mod?

Thanks,
Peter

A26B · 07-04-2009

Peter,
It's not a waste to buy & install the $500.00 radiator, but neither is it necessary. I believe the best move at this point for you would be to buy a new, OEM radiator from Doug Asay at Corvette Recyclers. Best price around and a great ZR-1 friend. Spend the remaining bucks on other fun mods.

jonszr1 · 07-04-2009

i agree with jerry . 9i have a aftermarket alluminum rad in the 92 callaway car and it doesnt seem to help the cooling over my 90 with a stk rad. the alluminum rad is much thicker which can make it alot harder to get airflow through it at low speed . if it were me id buy the stk rad and maybe a new water pump just to make sure everything is up to snuff . jerry gaskets has the water pumps for sale at a decent price

PhillipsLT5 · 07-04-2009

I went with fluidyne, pricey, Hibs suggestion, seems to run cooler & when it does get a little hot comes down faster, never gets to 3/4 guage, even in Phx. Az, 91, so I dont know number unless I use Jeffs idea of hitting correct buttons, also Dewitts or Ron Davis but need to do a little modifying with those 2

Paul Workman · 07-04-2009

Aside from cleaning the bugs out of the mesh, the best thing for my heating (besides turning on the A/C to light off the second fan) was Marc H's chip. Among other things, turns both fans on at (I forget exactly) around 210 and shuts them both off at 205(?)). Since then my gauge never wanders above mid scale in normal stop n go or highway driving.

As for the miracle additives for your coolant, you'll find them right next to the "Tornadoes" for your throttle body there at Wallyworld.

P.

GOLDCYLON · 07-05-2009

I replaced mine with a standard GM replacement $100 radiator and work great even here in Arizona. The key is to keep the radiator shorud area as clear from paper , leaves and othe crap as possible which is why most of us run a debries screen to keep our bottom air feeding C4 clear of debries. Wont stop the sand and silt however that gets into the fins.

tomtom72 · 07-06-2009

Yea, the debris screen over at the NetReg site is the ticket to stop most of the junk.

I was pondering a way to stop the sand, and I can't take credit for this idea as I saw it at the 24 hrs LeMans race. One of the LMP1 teams had filters made up to fit in the rad ducts in a slot they molded into the body work. On a stop they'd just pull out the old screens, full of crap, and slide in new screens.

I was thinking, hummmmm, I like that idea. Why couldn't I cut up some A/C filter element & do basically the same thing? I know it would work, I just can't seem to make it a "pull out, push in" type of operation.

Tom

07-03-2009	#1
Pqtaces Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Glendale, CA Posts: 41	To Replace the Rad or Not Replace The Rad? I was told I need to have my radiator removed and cleaned (My car runs hot in any driving other than constant frwy speeds of over 60 mph). I was looking at replacing the radiator with a new high capacity one as my mechanic told me it is a good idea and would make the car run about 20 degrees cooler (its Guldstrands, so they know what they are talking about). In a previous post someone said it was a waste of money to replace it unless you are racing (which I am not). My 1991 Z has 95k on it and my biggest reason for replacing it is to hopefully extend the life of the engine. Since I have to have the rad out for cleaning anyway the labor of the replacement is a non issue. My question is whether everyone thinks the $500 or so for the new rad is worth it or is it truly a waste and I am better off putting the $ toward a fun mod? Thanks, Peter __________________ [IMG]http://i931.photobucket.com/albums/ad155/pqtaces/pqtaceszr1.jpg[/IMG] May all your cards be aces and your 0-60 times be sub 5s! Peter

07-04-2009	#2
A26B Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Arcadia,OK Posts: 3,394	Re: To Replace the Rad or Not Replace The Rad? Peter, It's not a waste to buy & install the $500.00 radiator, but neither is it necessary. I believe the best move at this point for you would be to buy a new, OEM radiator from Doug Asay at Corvette Recyclers. Best price around and a great ZR-1 friend. Spend the remaining bucks on other fun mods. __________________ Jerry Downey JERRYS LT5 GASKETS & PARTS http://www.jerrysgaskets.com 1994 *ZR-1*, Black/Black, Lingenfelter Aerobody, 416cu in, 3.91 gears, coil-over susp, Brembo brakes, etc. 2016 Black-Red, 3LT-Z51 Auto 8-speed.

07-04-2009	#3
jonszr1 Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: lone pine and mammoth lakes Posts: 1,407	Re: To Replace the Rad or Not Replace The Rad? i agree with jerry . 9i have a aftermarket alluminum rad in the 92 callaway car and it doesnt seem to help the cooling over my 90 with a stk rad. the alluminum rad is much thicker which can make it alot harder to get airflow through it at low speed . if it were me id buy the stk rad and maybe a new water pump just to make sure everything is up to snuff . jerry gaskets has the water pumps for sale at a decent price

07-04-2009	#4
PhillipsLT5 Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Scottsdale, AZ Posts: 2,452	Re: To Replace the Rad or Not Replace The Rad? I went with fluidyne, pricey, Hibs suggestion, seems to run cooler & when it does get a little hot comes down faster, never gets to 3/4 guage, even in Phx. Az, 91, so I dont know number unless I use Jeffs idea of hitting correct buttons, also Dewitts or Ron Davis but need to do a little modifying with those 2

07-04-2009	#5
Paul Workman Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri Posts: 6,493	Re: To Replace the Rad or Not Replace The Rad? Aside from cleaning the bugs out of the mesh, the best thing for my heating (besides turning on the A/C to light off the second fan) was Marc H's chip. Among other things, turns both fans on at (I forget exactly) around 210 and shuts them both off at 205(?)). Since then my gauge never wanders above mid scale in normal stop n go or highway driving. As for the miracle additives for your coolant, you'll find them right next to the "Tornadoes" for your throttle body there at Wallyworld. P. __________________ Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry Last edited by Paul Workman; 07-04-2009 at 07:59 AM.

07-05-2009	#6
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,155	Re: To Replace the Rad or Not Replace The Rad? I replaced mine with a standard GM replacement $100 radiator and work great even here in Arizona. The key is to keep the radiator shorud area as clear from paper , leaves and othe crap as possible which is why most of us run a debries screen to keep our bottom air feeding C4 clear of debries. Wont stop the sand and silt however that gets into the fins. __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V

07-06-2009	#7
tomtom72 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jacksonville, FL USA Posts: 4,645	Re: To Replace the Rad or Not Replace The Rad? Yea, the debris screen over at the NetReg site is the ticket to stop most of the junk. I was pondering a way to stop the sand, and I can't take credit for this idea as I saw it at the 24 hrs LeMans race. One of the LMP1 teams had filters made up to fit in the rad ducts in a slot they molded into the body work. On a stop they'd just pull out the old screens, full of crap, and slide in new screens. I was thinking, hummmmm, I like that idea. Why couldn't I cut up some A/C filter element & do basically the same thing? I know it would work, I just can't seem to make it a "pull out, push in" type of operation. Tom __________________ 1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member