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#11 |
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: lone pine and mammoth lakes
Posts: 1,406
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do you have the stk prom still in your car if you do even with the new rad it will get hot when going slow as the factory setting for the fans to come on is around 223. unless you have the air conditioner on .
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#12 |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Glendale, CA
Posts: 41
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I don't think the fans are a problem. The fan switch is bad so my guy bypasses the switch and connected the fans to the ignition to come on when started until we can replace the switch (having that done at the same time as the rad). He said the high temp is due to the lack of air flow.
Mind you, I know very little in the mechanical arena so I am putting a lot of faith in the shop. I am taking the car to Guldstrands exactly for this reason as they come highly recommended and are regarded as a top shop. From what I found there are only a handful of good shops here in SoCal and they are the closest to me (only about 3-4 miles from my office). They have treated me well so far. I took the car in as soon as I bought it to be completely checked over and they only found a few minor things. Cleaning the rads was one of them (replacing the rad was actually my idea not theirs- so it doesn't seem as if they are trying to bleed me). |
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#13 | |
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Posts: n/a
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#14 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: McHenry, Il.
Posts: 6,584
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"I am taking the car to Guldstrands exactly for this reason as they come highly recommended and are regarded as a top shop."
Yep they will get to the bottom of it all -- top shop indeed! ![]() |
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#15 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,816
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I already tried Haibeck's approach... so maybe it's not a bubble after all.
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#16 |
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sparks, NV
Posts: 2,843
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Once the car is at operating temp, turn your HVAC system to full max heat (defrost will do it) If there's no or little heat inside the car you have an air bubble. If you get full heat you have a radiator/thermostat and/or fan issue. Did you remember to turn the heater on when you refilled the system and brought the car up to operating temp.
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#17 | |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: McHenry, Il.
Posts: 6,584
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Best part is that even on a humid 95+ Chicago summer day my Z can sit at idle for long periods and never gets above 205 and back out on the road and with a bit of air flow and a mile or so and I am back down to 170. This is why I never put the big mouth aid dam on -- really no need to -- stock stat as well for me and orig rad too. Got rid of the dreaded cags too and the performance improvements were great as well. best mod for the money the chip is indeed. ![]() |
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#18 | |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,816
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Thanks Andrew |
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#19 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: McHenry, Il.
Posts: 6,584
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Andy did you try what JeffVette said >>>
Andrew, the gauge is not a linear representation of how hot things are getting. Go into the diagnostic mode on the AC controller by holding both fan speed up and down buttons for 5 seconds, release and -00- should show, use either the up and down button again ad go to -16-. Hit the auto buttun for fan speed. That will give you the coolant temp in C. Are you running a stock prom chip and dealing with 223 b4 the fans kick on? |
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#20 | |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,816
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