Anyone with StainlessWorks headers

[z proud]

installed a set oF SW on my 91 They are the first set done with air tubes done by SW, no egr tube, with cats,

I used JEFFEVETTE'S o2 extenders and bracket for the oil dipstick. Worked great.

I did post photos of a few concerns on the air tube fitment..

Headers on all cars need some tweeking. All and all I am Happy!!
Stainless works teck worked with me on the air tubes.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by zr1don

I installed my SW headers on my 90 Z two weeks ago.

Issues:
1. Oil dip stick bracket could not be bolted up. Factory spacer & bolt would not work. #4 exhaust tube interfered w/long bolt & spacer. Tried shortening bolt & spacer, could not get it to work. Ended up cutting the bracket off the dip stick tube, welded it back on to the oppisite side of tube & it fits w/SW bolt & no spacer.

2. Headers had EGR tube in passenger side header. Cut tube off flush & welded patch over hole.

3. Passenger side O2 sensor wiring was too short, made extension & installed.

4. Passenger side extension tube behind cat was too long, cut approximately an inch off both ends of extension.

5. I live in CA & the AIR injection system is required to pass smog. I removed the AIR tubes from my factory exhaust & installed (welded) them to the SW's.

System sounds great, seat of the pants it pulls much stronger in upper rpm range (5-7,000).

Here is a man that thought outside the box and fixed his AIR problem.

This is all i was saying,i was not trying to be a smarta$$,maybe i was
I was only suggesting JVD contact SW to try and resolve the issue,JVD could have giving SW a chance to correct the issue before posting.

The O2's is where i said was the nit pick.

With our LT5's we have to think outside the box,i wish we didn't have to but sometimes there's no other way.

I hope SW got back to JVD.,update please.

Pete

[Chris_32212]

i just had a set of SW headers installed for me by the local corvette GURU down here in lehi UT. Shop is called Lung Automotive. they were more then fair on the pricing and all that but he didn't mention anything about needing to mod the dip stick. i will ask him about it in the morning and see what he says and reupdate this. i just got the car back today. it had a broken clutch fork. lol. seriously!!! i drove the car home from a cruise in the canyons and went to start the next morning and the clutch pedal stopped short of the fire wall by about 4-6". i had it towed to Lung automotive and he pulled the slave and said the fork looked bent and that meant that the trans had to come out, which meant the exhaust had to come out, which meant that it was a perfect opportunity to put in some stainless works headers, B&B cat back with X pipe, magnaflow metal core high flow cats (highly reccomended BTW), Stage 2 clutch, and a light weight fidanza flywheel. i now have the clutch fork in my garage and its not only bent, its cracked almost in half. The car sounds orgasmic by the way. very noticable improvement in performance.

[vandornjim]

Originally Posted by Pete

This is all i was saying,i was not trying to be a smarta$$,maybe i was
I was only suggesting JVD contact SW to try and resolve the issue,JVD could have giving SW a chance to correct the issue before posting.
I hope SW got back to JVD.,update please.
Pete

Well Pete, it has been pointed out already that I only asked for info from others who had installed these headers. Others here asked for more and complete feedback. I did make a call to SW for assistance and my call was never returned.

UPDATE: On the '95 setup we discussed. The EGR "tube" that is/was supplied with the SW kit is not a tube at all, it is a heater hose. It has a temperature cap of 300 degrees, far from adequate for the LT5 exhaust temps. Our customer is 500 miles away but is very capable so we suggested he fabricate an aluminum tube to take the place of the melted hose. Instead, he found another type of silicon hose but it too melted rather quickly. The vehicle began to run extremely rough and I surmised the EGR system inhaled the melted particles and they were possibly causing the valves not to close properly.
After making and installing the aluminum tube we described, I told the customer to go drive the car hard which blew anything in the valve system right out the pipes. The vehicle ran perfectly after that and in fact, he took it to two dyno facilities who were very impressed with the 13 year old "Street Skinner" package's performance of some 500+ corrected hp.

Also, one person claimed that our air/fuel ratio must be far off and therefore causing the exhaust to run hotter. Of course we have been doing calibrations for Corvettes for some 18 years now, however, our calibration was also tested by each dyno facility and they were very impressed with our accuracy. See our website under "Testimonials" in about a week.

I have never received a return call from Stainless Works with regards to my initial request for technical assistance though someone from their company did stop by our shop to visit on their way to the GoodGuy Nationals at nearby Beech Bend Raceway.

Sorry to have been so quiet lately but we've had much to do and we're having a blast. Any of you interested in scheduling winter work, please let us know ASAP.

Very sorry to hear about our friend Elfie Duntov. God Speed Elfie.

[Chris_32212]

Update: my SW headers are in and the oil dip stick tube required just a slight bend in oder to clear the header pipe on my 93 ZR-1.

[Dynomite]

I am reviving this old thread Installing SW Headers ZR1CORVOR and SW Exhaust ZRICHAMSW tomorrow on my 91' Z

Or should I say I will START the installation tomorrow

If I have questions, I will post them here :

It should be a lot easier to install the SW system which has several separate pieces than it was to remove the stock welded up exhaust system trying to pull that system out from under the Z on the floor between my floor jacks

I have my acetylene torch and arc welder handy if things get rough

[Paul Workman]

Marc H said I'd have to make a bracket to attache the dipstick tube to the header, and so I did. It ended up being a "Z" shape which attaches to a convenient header bolt on one end and provides a purchase for the stock "ear" on the dipstick, with a little grinding with the Dremel to accommodate the shape of the tube. Turned out fine: No biggie at all.

From start to finish, including painting, was under 30 minutes time with a drill, Dremel, a vise and a hammer. (Can't seem to lay my hands on it just now. But, if I remember where I put it, I'll take a pic of it for yaz.)

P.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Marc H said I'd have to make a bracket to attache the dipstick tube to the header, and so I did. It ended up being a "Z" shape which attaches to a convenient header bolt on one end and provides a purchase for the stock "ear" on the dipstick, with a little grinding with the Dremel to accommodate the shape of the tube. Turned out fine: No biggie at all.

From start to finish, including painting, was under 30 minutes time with a drill, Dremel, a vise and a hammer. (Can't seem to lay my hands on it just now. But, if I remember where I put it, I'll take a pic of it for yaz.)

P.

I was hoping there was a cure for the oil dipstick by now......but I will make what I need once I get a look at the problem

So......you did not install it (bracket) since you are looking for it to take a picture?

[-=Jeff=-]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I was hoping there was a cure for the oil dipstick by now......but I will make what I need once I get a look at the problem

So......you did not install it (bracket) since you are looking for it to take a picture?

No His motor is currently out of his car

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

No His motor is currently out of his car

That would be a great picture then if his SW headers are still attached to his engine

It sounds like his oil dipstick bracket is not attached since he is looking for it

I was just curious if the SW headers just received have been modified to accomodate the oil dipstick since this was an issue before

The stock exhaust manifold and muffler were removed today.....so we shall see how the SW system goes together

Can I remove the air induction system completely without resulting in a warning light coming on for some reason? I think there might be a vacuum line to that system but am not sure (which should be plugged).