Oil and spark plug change - Page 2 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

White Bullet · 07-13-2008

I know what you mean Don. I find that I am willing but at times my body says no way. Were did you get the mighty-vac and what size air compressor did you get? I would be interested in looking at this.

Jeffvette
Thanks for the tips I am sure once I can get under the car while standing that I should be able to loosen the bad boy. I was wondering weather an electric impact wrench would do here. I do not have any air tools or equipment and this seems do able. The other reason I am considering this is when I replaced the radiator I could not get the thermostat housing bolts loose (seems to be a reoccurring theme). With an electric wrench I would not have to send as much to loosen problem bolts. Is the electric wrench an option?

07-14-2008

I try not to use air tools for certain jobs. The oil pan bolt is one of them. I have a long 3/8 snap on wrench that is about 17" long, that allows me to get enough ooomph on it.

Same thing with the thermostat housing bolts. just use a longer ratchet.

On the sucker, here is the thread.

http://www.zr1netregistry.com/forum/...ead.php?t=5052

karterdon · 07-14-2008

The post that Jeffvette placed with the mighty vac is where i got mine from and it worked great. As for an Air compressor - You can go to Sears and Pick one up. Get one large enough in HP and capacity that will work with your air tools - Usually something with a tank size of 25 - 30 Gal. and A rating of 150 PSI - I think that is what the Sears unit is - Price is about $350 or so. You will also need to get some additional male & Female fittings and air hose as well. I don't think the Myty VAc came with a Female fitting.

Best of Luck -

Don Yoakem
91-#267 Dark Red Met.

95ZR1 · 07-21-2008

That sucker looks very similar to the Moeller I use on my boat and my cars.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...key=SiteSearch

White Bullet · 07-21-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by 95ZR1

That sucker looks very similar to the Moeller I use on my boat and my cars.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...key=SiteSearch

That's perfect

. Thanks 95ZR1

.

Norsky4360 · 07-23-2008

This may sound nutz (I thought it was when I first heard it) but give it a try. After getting the correct fit on the socket give the plug a tug tightening it first, then try loosening it. A GM Master Tech friend told me about it and it has worked countless times for me when a plug, bolt, or nut won't budge on the first try.

White Bullet · 07-23-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norsky4360

This may sound nutz (I thought it was when I first heard it) but give it a try. After getting the correct fit on the socket give the plug a tug tightening it first, then try loosening it. A GM Master Tech friend told me about it and it has worked countless times for me when a plug, bolt, or nut won't budge on the first try.

Thanks Norsky4306. I may have tried it once or twice by accident as I was moving the car in both directions with the socket attached to the drain plug. But me I am getting older and have decided to and have purchased a fluid extractor to do the oil changes with and will leave the drain plug alone. Heck if it does not want to move why should I mess with it

besides this seems like an easier way to accomplish this task.

95ZR1 · 07-23-2008

David, just an FYI, but on the MerCruiser Marine engines, the dipstick tube extends down to the bottom of the oil pan by the drain plug. The top of the tube has a threaded ring on it so you can screw your hand pump right onto the dipstick tube. Just screw it on, pump the handle, and out comes the oil. If you bought the Moeller pump I told you about, one of the 3 tubes you get with the pump is just a rubber gasket that fits into the top of a MerCruiser dipstick - no need to even snake the longer tube down the dipstick.

White Bullet · 07-24-2008

95ZR1, I purchased the one you suggested and it is the ticket

. It arrived today and I have already changed the oil. It was the easiest oil change I have ever done; period! It was about a quart low and the system pulled out right at nine quarts. I used my car jack to raise the car up on the opposite side to encourage the oil to the dipstick side. Thanks for you help hope to be able to return it some day

. David.

07-13-2008	#11
White Bullet Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Gainesville GA Posts: 231	Re: Oil and spark plug change I know what you mean Don. I find that I am willing but at times my body says no way. Were did you get the mighty-vac and what size air compressor did you get? I would be interested in looking at this. Jeffvette Thanks for the tips I am sure once I can get under the car while standing that I should be able to loosen the bad boy. I was wondering weather an electric impact wrench would do here. I do not have any air tools or equipment and this seems do able. The other reason I am considering this is when I replaced the radiator I could not get the thermostat housing bolts loose (seems to be a reoccurring theme). With an electric wrench I would not have to send as much to loosen problem bolts. Is the electric wrench an option? __________________ 1991 ZR1, White/Red.

07-14-2008	#12
Jeffvette Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Oil and spark plug change I try not to use air tools for certain jobs. The oil pan bolt is one of them. I have a long 3/8 snap on wrench that is about 17" long, that allows me to get enough ooomph on it. Same thing with the thermostat housing bolts. just use a longer ratchet. On the sucker, here is the thread. http://www.zr1netregistry.com/forum/...ead.php?t=5052

07-14-2008	#13
karterdon Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Antioch, Illinois Posts: 129	Re: Oil and spark plug change The post that Jeffvette placed with the mighty vac is where i got mine from and it worked great. As for an Air compressor - You can go to Sears and Pick one up. Get one large enough in HP and capacity that will work with your air tools - Usually something with a tank size of 25 - 30 Gal. and A rating of 150 PSI - I think that is what the Sears unit is - Price is about $350 or so. You will also need to get some additional male & Female fittings and air hose as well. I don't think the Myty VAc came with a Female fitting. Best of Luck - Don Yoakem 91-#267 Dark Red Met.

07-21-2008	#14
95ZR1 Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Marco Island, FL Posts: 194	Re: Oil and spark plug change That sucker looks very similar to the Moeller I use on my boat and my cars. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...key=SiteSearch __________________ ZR1.Net Founding Member #088 C4: '95 ZR1 #357, black/black, B&B Tri-Flo w/ X-pipe C6: '07 convertible, Atomic Orange, LS2, 3LT, A6, Z51 Sea Six: '01 Chaparral Sunesta, 5.7L EFI Mercruiser

07-23-2008	#16
Norsky4360 Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Colorado Posts: 115	Re: Oil and spark plug change This may sound nutz (I thought it was when I first heard it) but give it a try. After getting the correct fit on the socket give the plug a tug tightening it first, then try loosening it. A GM Master Tech friend told me about it and it has worked countless times for me when a plug, bolt, or nut won't budge on the first try. __________________ [IMG]http://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/401_500/419/thorsten_norge.gif[/IMG] [B][I]Jim O. [COLOR=white]..............[/COLOR][IMG]http://www.c3vr.com/forum/smileys/smiley27.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/401_500/419/driving1.gif[/IMG] "[COLOR=red]The Toys[/COLOR]" [/I][/B] ...'90 ZR-1.......'70 roadster.......'78 Trans Am.... [I][B][URL="http://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/401_500/419/TheToyII_102_852.jpg"][IMG]http://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/401_500/419/TheToyII_104_65.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL="http://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/401_500/419/TheToy.jpg"][IMG]http://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/401_500/419/Itsa70_36a2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL="http://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/401_500/419/PICT3106a.JPG"][IMG]http://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/401_500/419/PICT3106a_sig.JPG[/IMG][/URL] [/B][/I] (click on each to see a larger version) [I][B][COLOR=red]Save the Wave...!!! [IMG]http://www.c3vr.com/images/smilesani/wavey.gif[/IMG][/COLOR][/B][/I]

07-23-2008	#18
95ZR1 Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Marco Island, FL Posts: 194	Re: Oil and spark plug change David, just an FYI, but on the MerCruiser Marine engines, the dipstick tube extends down to the bottom of the oil pan by the drain plug. The top of the tube has a threaded ring on it so you can screw your hand pump right onto the dipstick tube. Just screw it on, pump the handle, and out comes the oil. If you bought the Moeller pump I told you about, one of the 3 tubes you get with the pump is just a rubber gasket that fits into the top of a MerCruiser dipstick - no need to even snake the longer tube down the dipstick. __________________ ZR1.Net Founding Member #088 C4: '95 ZR1 #357, black/black, B&B Tri-Flo w/ X-pipe C6: '07 convertible, Atomic Orange, LS2, 3LT, A6, Z51 Sea Six: '01 Chaparral Sunesta, 5.7L EFI Mercruiser

07-24-2008	#19
White Bullet Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Gainesville GA Posts: 231	Re: Oil and spark plug change 95ZR1, I purchased the one you suggested and it is the ticket. It arrived today and I have already changed the oil. It was the easiest oil change I have ever done; period! It was about a quart low and the system pulled out right at nine quarts. I used my car jack to raise the car up on the opposite side to encourage the oil to the dipstick side. Thanks for you help hope to be able to return it some day. David. __________________ 1991 ZR1, White/Red.