93 Starter Not Engaging

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

You really need to be able to interrogate your CCM for trouble codes.
You can either borrow a scanner (OBDI) or look for instructions on how to use a jumper wire on your ALDL to read the codes stored.
Specifically you want to see if code 51,52,53 or 61,62,63 is present.
These codes each relate to your pass key resistance or if there is a problem with the pass key circuit.
If none of those codes are present you know your key and all are good, and then try getting 12 volts to the starter wire or beating the starter.
If any one of those are present that would prevent cranking, and would explain why your fob , security light etc are non responsive.
In that case you need to correct the circuit or replace the key.
The pass key circuit wires are two VERY thin white wires that begin in the ignition lock cylinder and convey the resistance code to the CCM.
You can also try some contact cleaner on the key before you insert it.

Again try your panel dimmer switch all the way up to turn your interior lights on to see if they work.

I feel badly that you have not been successful getting it going.
Stay with it.
You will figure it out!

Marty

[RubyredEd]

Today I took the advice of Geezer and checked the three fuse suggested(even though I already checked them all) and they were good. Then I jumped out and the A & G terminal on the obd1 connector, turned ignition to on and nothing displayed. Then I took Martys advice and checked if my interior lights were being controled by the dimmer switch and they are and will click to stay on however I just realized the there were no dash lights in the speedometer area but they are working everywhere else! Never noticed that before. Also put the new battery on 200 amp boost and tried ignition and same problem, didnt work. Im convinced that Im being locked out of ignition circuit somehow. I dont have a OBD1 reader thats why I tried jumping A & G but as I said nothing came on dash.

[RubyredEd]

Pulled the new battery back out today and could not see anything unusual. However I noticed the underhood lights looked dim so I checked the battery voltage and it was down to 6.4 volts! Ive double checked everything that could be left on and cant find any reason for this drain. Also Ive contacted my local Chevy dealership and the service tech who is familar with these cars is telling me that the programming to my key may have been lost and needs to be reprogrammed if not even a new key due to the previous dead battery and battery swap. They obviously can't tell me until I flatbed the car to them. That was before I found out about the low voltage battery.
Looks like I might have to send the car to the dealership. Any thoughts?

[geezer]

Pm sent!!

[RubyredEd]

Reacharged the battery, reading 13.1 volts
Got an OBD1 scan tool, connected to port and turned key to on.
Engine fan turned on and still nothing displayed.
Not sure what to think now?

[geezer]

Check your Private Messages here on this site. PM's have been sent.

[RubyredEd]

is this the fusible link? It is located behind the battery. How should I check it?
Also, I cant see where I could slide something down through the plenum to strike the starter. Anybody know exactly at what position I would have to be?

[geezer]

That is one end of the Fuse Block #1 feed. The smaller orangish wire should be one end of the fusible link. Locate the lower end of these wires & verify good connection at the connector point for this + cable & all cables at this point. Remove batt. to properly verify this. Check fusible link by placing VOM lead on the common connector point & use a straight pin to puncture the other side of the fusible link & connect the other VOM lead to read continuity. In other words test the orangish wire with the bulge to ensure continuity from one side through to the other side of the bulge( fusible link).

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

You are now going about this correctly, i.e. from the beginning.
As the thread progressed it became clear that a number of things are going on.
1- The battery should not go dead in a C-4 in days. if the battery tested good at the auto parts store with a load test, then your next step is:
2- check ALL connections, beginning with the battery terminal bolts and working back to the termination of all the cables and wires coming off of the battery, including the ground.
3- If your battery has tested and now tests good, yet you are still losing charge, you need to find out where the draw is that is killing it. Either there is an active short, or something is staying active when off.
Your current effort inspecting the fusible links is a good start, but I would want to know what took the link out before I repair it. Perhaps a crossed connection when removing or installing the battery, or accidentally hooking the charger or jump box up backwards? If that happened that would be good news as we would know the problem will not continue.
If your test meter indicates a current draw, begin removing a fuse at a time to see which circuit or device is causing the draw.
If the fusible link has melted it had to be a pretty good jolt, which could have caused an issue with other electronics such as the ecm or ccm, but lets not go there yet.

Something is causing or caused the entire dash display to be out. You need to identify the cause before going further.

If you have not yet acquired a factory service manual, a complete set, that is now a necessity in order to diagnose what is or is not going on.

I doubt it would have just occurred from storage. Something, and somewhat of a big something, caused these multiple issues.

Check for rodent evidence. If found, a very careful inspection of all underhood wiring is in order.

Again, keep us posted on your progress.

Marty

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Originally Posted by RubyredEd

Pulled the new battery back out today and could not see anything unusual. However I noticed the underhood lights looked dim so I checked the battery voltage and it was down to 6.4 volts! Ive double checked everything that could be left on and cant find any reason for this drain. Also Ive contacted my local Chevy dealership and the service tech who is familar with these cars is telling me that the programming to my key may have been lost and needs to be reprogrammed if not even a new key due to the previous dead battery and battery swap. They obviously can't tell me until I flatbed the car to them. That was before I found out about the low voltage battery.
Looks like I might have to send the car to the dealership. Any thoughts?

Once you have resolved the draw issue, you might want to call local locksmiths.
All should be have the equipment to read the key, and many have the interrogator required to test to the ccm for the proper resistance as the key is inserted.
You should find the locksmith to be far less expensive than the Chevrolet dealer, and no tow is required.

Marty