Spal Fan Upgrade

[secondchance]

I know a few already modified their Zs with Spal fan for cooling improvement. I finally pulled the trigger and decided to follow suit now that I am running a 200 amp alternator to back them up.
Once I received the Spal fans I found out the outside diameter of Span fans to be an exact match for inside diameter of OEM fan housing. So, instead of using the Spal fan housing and having to deal with relocation of AC dryer, I chose to transplant Span fan to OEM housing.

https://flic.kr/p/2g81gyC
Spal fans hacked off of stock housing/panel.
took some nerve to cut up a brand new $365 part.

https://flic.kr/p/2g81gys
Test fit.

https://flic.kr/p/2g81gPb
Almost ready to go.

OEM fan housing is internally divided into two sections served by one fan each. I am cutting these back so that both fans will serve the entire radiator. Also, two openings on the OEM fan housing will be closed off to increase efficiency when fans are running.

Can't wait for 100 degree day just to see how it performs.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by secondchance

I know a few already modified their Zs with Spal fan for cooling improvement. I finally pulled the trigger and decided to follow suit now that I am running a 200 amp alternator to back them up.
Once I received the Spal fans I found out the outside diameter of Span fans to be an exact match for inside diameter of OEM fan housing. So, instead of using the Spal fan housing and having to deal with relocation of AC dryer, I chose to transplant Span fan to OEM housing.

https://flic.kr/p/2g81gyC
Spal fans hacked off of stock housing/panel.
took some nerve to cut up a brand new $365 part.

https://flic.kr/p/2g81gys
Test fit.

https://flic.kr/p/2g81gPb
Almost ready to go.

OEM fan housing is internally divided into two sections served by one fan each. I am cutting these back so that both fans will serve the entire radiator. Also, two openings on the OEM fan housing will be closed off to increase efficiency when fans are running.

Can't wait for 100 degree day just to see how it performs.

You beat me to it.......so.......exactly how did you hack and how did you then modify the hacked Spal Fans and outer ring to fit the 4 mounts in existing housing?

It looks like you glued or otherwise attached those existing mounts to the Spall outer ring???

What about the electrical connectors on spal fans and existing electrical fan connector?

What was the exact model of the spal fans and source?

Great Information and great idea

[GOLDCYLON]

Looks like dremel surgery to me Cliff. GC

[secondchance]

You beat me to it.......so.......exactly how did you hack and how did you then modify the hacked Spal Fans and outer ring to fit the 4 mounts in existing housing?
Like Daryl said it was a Dremel surgery. I used Dremel miniature circular saw to cut and liberate fan and cylindrical housing. "X" shaped mounting brace was cut off the OEM fan housing because "X" brace did not clear the new fan motor.

It looks like you glued or otherwise attached those existing mounts to the Spall outer ring???
When I took the picture, trimmed Spal housing was just slid into trimmed OEM housing for taking picture. I used - yes you guessed it! - JB Weld spread thin before they were slid together. Plus, 5 mm bolts and nuts at 9, 12, 3 and 6 o'clock positions just in case. Just be careful to position the bolts so that the fan blade will not collide.

What about the electrical connectors on spal fans and existing electrical fan connector?
SP461 C4 Spal Fans from Dewitt comes with correct connectors.

What was the exact model of the spal fans and source?
SP461

I expect some loss of efficiency relative to using SP461 housing since SP461 fits tight to the radiator surface and with no compromise. However, I elected to accept the loss and use OEM housing so that AC dryer can stay using OEM bracket.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by secondchance

You beat me to it.......so.......exactly how did you hack and how did you then modify the hacked Spal Fans and outer ring to fit the 4 mounts in existing housing?
Like Daryl said it was a Dremel surgery. I used Dremel miniature circular saw to cut and liberate fan and cylindrical housing. "X" shaped mounting brace was cut off the OEM fan housing because "X" brace did not clear the new fan motor.

It looks like you glued or otherwise attached those existing mounts to the Spall outer ring???
When I took the picture, trimmed Spal housing was just slid into trimmed OEM housing for taking picture. I used - yes you guessed it! - JB Weld spread thin before they were slid together. Plus, 5 mm bolts and nuts at 9, 12, 3 and 6 o'clock positions just in case. Just be careful to position the bolts so that the fan blade will not collide.

What about the electrical connectors on spal fans and existing electrical fan connector?
SP461 C4 Spal Fans from Dewitt comes with correct connectors.

What was the exact model of the spal fans and source?
SP461

I expect some loss of efficiency relative to using SP461 housing since SP461 fits tight to the radiator surface and with no compromise. However, I elected to accept the loss and use OEM housing so that AC dryer can stay using OEM bracket.

Thank you for the details........Let us know what the performance is relative to existing stock fans

[secondchance]

I am waiting for a plastic sheet to block openings on OEM housing. Might take a few weeks to get it installed since I might wait for a WAZOO get together.
I’ll be sure to post the result.

[secondchance]

https://flic.kr/p/2gkfEGV

Above pic is fully prepped fan housing (thanks Charlie!) ready to be swapped. Note pass through section of the housing blocked off. Divider fins on the inside was also cut off so that the entire plenum between the fan housing and the radiator became one served by both fans.

Removing existing fan/fan housing was a bit of a struggle due to the clutter between the motor accessories and the radiator. However, dropping in a new Spal fans/housing was easy due to reduced overall thickness. Also, Spal supplied plugs plugged right into factory harness.

I never thought I would be waiting for a hot day and to be stuck in DC rush hour traffic. But that is exactly what I had been hoping for the last couple of weeks. Yesterday, finally, it was 91 to 93 degrees and traffic around the beltway had moderate traffic. Not exactly 99 degrees and 30 minutes in the traffic but…

Also, my AC line high pressure switch had gone bad. Knowing my Shrader valve is bad (I tried to remove high pressure switch in 2014 and was rewarded with green dye plus $400 to recharge the system) and not in a mood to dish out $400 for a recharge, instead of replace the switch, I spliced in a rocker switch. This allows me to manually turn on 2ndary fan (driver side) at will. Plus, I am running 180 degree thermostat with one 1/8” hole on the flange.

After fully warming up and cruising at 60, coolant temp was steady at 197. Crawling in heavy traffic for about 15 minutes I was seeing coolant temp go up slowly (since my 2ndary fan was on to keep AC cold) to 204. At this point main fan must have cut in also because temp started to come down to 197. After hitting 197, it would start to creep back up to 204. What was interesting is that oil temp went up to 201 initially, came down to 197 and stayed at 197 through out 15 minutes crawl.

Also, Spal fans are loud. Not the fan it self but the air flow noise. I can hear the fan come on with the motor idling. Also, a quick flicker on instrument light gives away when the fan kicks on.

Another benefit (obvious but didn’t think of initially) is much colder air coming from AC. Obviously, higher air flow through AC condenser results in cooler air coming out of AC vents.

Lastly, with billet, hair-pin stator, 200 amp alternator, with AC running with fan setting at 7, engine idling, radio on with subwoofer, I was seeing voltage read out fluctuate between 14.3 to 14.6 volts.

So, after all this work and money involved - Spal fans, 200 amp alternator, plus install work including additional wiring - would I do this again? Answer is definite and loud "YES".

We expect 96 degrees this Friday and I am hoping for an epic traffic jam! Sorry! Washingtonians.

[RussMcB]

It's been a few years since I replaced my radiator, so the shroud details are not fresh in my mind ... I'm wondering if the divider fins are to discourage air from going through the other fan hole rather than the radiator when only one fan is running.

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by RussMcB

It's been a few years since I replaced my radiator, so the shroud details are not fresh in my mind ... I'm wondering if the divider fins are to discourage air from going through the other fan hole rather than the radiator when only one fan is running.

I believe you are right. There would be air taking short cut when primary is not on (coolant below trigger temp - factory:225, Marc:205) and yet secondary is triggered due to AC high side pressure higher than 220 psi.

Yesterday it was 93 to 96 in Northern VA. As cars started to back up coolant temp climbed to 207 followed by drop to 203 once both fans came on line and stayed at 203. Oil temp stayed steady at 197. When I stopped for a while to pick up some stuff at Advance Auto Parts, starting the car, I saw 211 from heat soak. After starting the motor, coolant temp came down to 203 again.
AC was nice and cold through out the driving.

[XfireZ51]

Nicely done.