Service Ride Control FX3

For 90-93, jumper plugs A-C on the ALDL port, and your SRC light will flash the code that is being set.





For 94-95, jumper plugs 3-4 on the ALDL port and your SRC light will flash the code that is being set





12 = Start of sequence
13 = Left rear time out
14 = Right Front time out
21 = Left Front time out
22 = Right Rear time out
31 = Left Front out of position
32 = Right Front out of position
33 = Left Rear out of position
34 = Right Rear out of position


Out of position codes are triggered if the computer senses that the actuator has not found the end stop position on the shock. Remove actuator at the indicated shock. Turn the valve gear on the shock stops after about 3 / 4 of turn, then you have a bad actuator. If it spins around continuously then it is a bad shock

41 = Selective ride control switch short to voltage
42 = Selective ride control switch open contacts
You can have a code 42 if you leave the switch in between indented positions
43 = selective ride control switch circuit open.

23 = If you start the car more than 3 times and do not move the car this code will set. Drive 3-6 feet and the light will go out.

The ride control controller is located in the bin behind the drivers seat mounted with the ABS controller.


Servicing Shocks:
Shocks are broken down into two year groups.

89-91 - Shock gear turns 160 degrees
92-95 - Shock gear turns 90 degrees

Actuators will fit 1989-1995

Ride controller is broken down into the same groups 89-91 & 92-95.

[rkreigh]

I have a 95 Jeff and have a "sticky" shock or bad actuator. MOST times it doesn't pass the startup test, sometimes I'll pass, and many times the car codes when I hit around 50 even though it passed. it might be the shock binding.

can you post the jumpering for the 95 OBD II style ALDL?? I think I have some articles somewhere but they all seem to apply to the earlier cars.

I learned something too. I thought the actuators had to match the shocks. that is way cool, now I have some spares!!!!

I also have kinda a funky setup on my car. I went with the earlier shocks on the coil overs, and switched to the early shock controller box. works fine. I have thought about getting the rings cut in the later shocks and switching the coil over setup but it doesn't seem worth it.

any thoughts?? great post!! I really appreciate you doing this.

Ron, I'll get the write up for the 94 & 95 cars. It's a little trickier.

[-=Jeff=-]

Originally Posted by Jeffvette

23 = If you start the car more than 3 times and do not move the car this code will set. Drive 3-6 feet and the light will go out.

So GM must have had this code in there for a reason.. ayone know why?


Jeff, GREAT Write up, I had a Code 31 which ended up being a loose top shock mount

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

So GM must have had this code in there for a reason.. ayone know why?

The FX3 adjusts dampening as speed increases and decreases. So if it is not sensing any speed, you have an issue.

[-=Jeff=-]

Originally Posted by Jeffvette

The FX3 adjusts dampening as speed increases and decreases. So if it is not sensing any speed, you have an issue.

Makes sense.. mever thought of that

Updated for 94-95 cars.

[tomtom72]

I have a question about installing the rear shocks on my 90. The Helm FSM says:

"Hold the suspension at proper trim height using jack stands." that's step 5.

In the "important" box, with the ! in the box....it says:
"Hold the suspension at proper trim height when tightening shock absorber upper bracket bolts (76). Do not allow the suspension to move below rebound."

I understand this to mean "do not let the suspension hang and use the top mount bolts to take the stress of the weight.....do I have that part right??

Also, do I have to measure the distance from a point on the rear bearing hub to a point on the frame to determine "proper trim height" ? Am I over thinking this? I was just gonna put the rear up on stands and put my jack under one knuckle at a time and jack up a bit to unload the shock, remove shock, put new shock in place and use the jack to get the upper mount back up to the frame before tightening the mount bolts....any ideas???

TIA

Tom

[bradslt5]

i think the reason is so the pressure is off the 2 mounting bolts for the plate as i found out on my former red car it had 1 stripped thread for the 2 mounting bolts it was a real pia to fix

[tomtom72]

Originally Posted by bradslt5

i think the reason is so the pressure is off the 2 mounting bolts for the plate as i found out on my former red car it had 1 stripped thread for the 2 mounting bolts it was a real pia to fix

Thanks for the response Brad! How ya doing? Everything good?

I understand I'm not supposed to use the mounting bolts to draw up the rear suspension.....but I just question that my using the jack to draw up the rear suspension first and then thread the upper shock mount bolts is a good enough approach or should I be measuring ride heights (for lack of a better expression ) with the car on the floor prior to putting it up on stands...I would have figured that if I had to measure something to determine the "proper trim height" that the FSM would give a measurement to reference.

I suspect I'm over thinking this....but I'd rather see what the collective brain trust has to say before I do this job.

Thanks
Tom