HELP - LT5 Idle Air control connector

[jrd1990zr1]

Well my bad, I broke the lock portion of the harness connector to the Idle Air control. Does anyone have a source for one of these 4 wire connectors? I think it is a weatherpack.

Also is there a trick to remove the wires without cutting and splicing in a new connector?

Thanks in advance, John

[Dynomite]

Idle Air Connector

You asked the same question 3 years ago .....lol

[QB93Z]

Hi John, try searching for GM 12126487. I believe that is the IAC connector part number. I also show Delco PT757.


Here is a tool on amazon that will help:


https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56500-T...atherpack+tool


If that link doesn't work, search for Lisle 56500.


Jim

[WVZR-1]

It's a Pull To Seat Metri-Pak 150 I'm quite sure and the empty connector shell that is in the FSM doesn't seem available to create a new. You would have to actually cut the connector off insert the wires through the connector add terminals and seals then pull back towards you. I don't believe unless '90 was very different that would be the assembly process. A cut/splice of a connector that will work isn't an issue. I believe I can give you a couple numbers. If you bought the mentioned connector you could possibly use only that shell, buy terminals, seals and reassemble.

If your intention is the NCRS thing I'd think it would be good to have the real deal.

I'll try to sort an empty connector terminals etc if you'd like!

***I believe I've found a suitable 'empty shell' for you if you're interested.

[Ccmano]

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

It's a Pull To Seat Metri-Pak 150 I'm quite sure and the empty connector shell that is in the FSM doesn't seem available to create a new. You would have to actually cut the connector off insert the wires through the connector add terminals and seals then pull back towards you. I don't believe unless '90 was very different that would be the assembly process. A cut/splice of a connector that will work isn't an issue. I believe I can give you a couple numbers. If you bought the mentioned connector you could possibly use only that shell, buy terminals, seals and reassemble.

If your intention is the NCRS thing I'd think it would be good to have the real deal.

I'll try to sort an empty connector terminals etc if you'd like!

***I believe I've found a suitable 'empty shell' for you if you're interested.

Yup the Metri-Pack connectors are a pain. I believe this is the one. Take a photo of the wire order on the original connector. Break the old one, remove and cut the wires and keep as much wire length as possible. Reassemble with the new connector.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F273107875470

[Z51JEFF]

Originally Posted by Ccmano

Yup the Metri-Pack connectors are a pain. I believe this is the one. Take a photo of the wire order on the original connector. Break the old one, remove and cut the wires and keep as much wire length as possible. Reassemble with the new connector.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F273107875470

I’ve got every piece in the picture that I either got from TERMINAL SUPPLY or MOUSER. All you need to do is slip the terminals out of the old connector and into the new one.

[Ccmano]

Originally Posted by Z51JEFF

I’ve got every piece in the picture that I either got from TERMINAL SUPPLY or MOUSER. All you need to do is slip the terminals out of the old connector and into the new one.

Getting the old ones out of the old connector is the problem. They slip in from the front. To do them correctly you put the bare wire in from the back, attach it to the connector as it sticks out the front then pull it back into the connector body and lock it in front the front. At least the ones I’ve done.
H

[jrd1990zr1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Idle Air Connector

You asked the same question 3 years ago .....lol

Looks like I did and when I searched couldn't find it. Must have been a "senior" moment, sorry.

I did get a GM 12126487 but it came with the pigtails. My preference is not to cut the harness, I'd like to find the bare connector for the repair.

Thanks to all for the sources.

John

[WVZR-1]

Even with an empty 'correct' shell you still have a cut required to use it. This is an assembly guide for a 150 "Pull to Seat'. The packages that are mentioned in some of the links suggested are 150.2 P2S NOT 150.

Here's an assembly guide of a 150 P2S.

I did send you an email.

https://www.mwignitions.com/pdf/Pull2seat.pdf

You have an 'original' 12126487 now? Are all of the wire leads WHITE?

If you have a vernier measure the total length of just the shell part of the connector. I believe I can ID it as to being original 150 or if it's maybe a later 150.2. Measure the length of your busted one as a comparison.

[jrd1990zr1]

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

Even with an empty 'correct' shell you still have a cut required to use it. This is an assembly guide for a 150 "Pull to Seat'. The packages that are mentioned in some of the links suggested are 150.2 P2S NOT 150.

Here's an assembly guide of a 150 P2S.

I did send you an email.

https://www.mwignitions.com/pdf/Pull2seat.pdf

You have an 'original' 12126487 now? Are all of the wire leads WHITE?

If you have a vernier measure the total length of just the shell part of the connector. I believe I can ID it as to being original 150 or if it's maybe a later 150.2. Measure the length of your busted one as a comparison.

Thanks for the instructions. Yes the pigtails are white. It appears once the metal connectors are seated in the shell you can not release them, so my idea of using the 12126487 shell will not work.

I have a caliper and will measure the shell length and post back.

Replied to your e-mail.

Thanks again, John