Stuck!! No crank ! LF some input and help !

[5ABI VT]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

The relay mod if you are talking the relay mod I described in a Link.......only requires current to close the main points of the relay after which the main points of the relay pass current from the battery directly to the Field coils of the Starter Solenoid. The magnetic field created within the Solenoid is then maximum with maximum force on the Solenoid points created. The Solenoid points then pass maximum current allowed from battery to Starter motor.

Reconditioning the starter Solenoid involves cleaning/replacing the Solenoid points......and cleaning the plunger itself.



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I believe I understand. Admittedly I am not very experienced with working with wiring diagrams and relays etc. takes me a little to fully comprehend everything in my mind I think

So that relay mod bypasses the vats and clutch switch etc and if the starter works it will fire ? Does that mean it's unnecessary to do the key pellet bypass (not even sure what that is called - I had it happen on my 4th gen fbodys and putting a resistor in the wiring allowed it to start) . Again I appreciate it !

[5ABI VT]

Just a small update. Had a little time and pulled the ignition wire from the column (will add a pic shortly). I matched my ohms reading on the pellet on the key to within .002 with a resistor and soldered it into the wiring and plugged it back in. Still no crank.

I dug up an old thread by mitsumark here post # 24 http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....highlight=vats

Going to try replacing this relay before moving on.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by 5ABI VT

Just a small update. Had a little time and pulled the ignition wire from the column (will add a pic shortly). I matched my ohms reading on the pellet on the key to within .002 with a resistor and soldered it into the wiring and plugged it back in. Still no crank.

I dug up an old thread by mitsumark here post # 24 http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....highlight=vats

Going to try replacing this relay before moving on.

See Electrical Ground Connections and Installing Starter Relay

Locate the 12 gauge purple wire (red 12 gauge wire in my case of the Early 1990 ZR-1) and
cut the wire such that the end leading to the starter Solenoid sticks our far enough that
it can be connected directly to the Relay. Solder a 4 inch 12 gauge wire extension to the 12 gauge
purple wire coming from the Clutch Switch making it long enough to reach the Relay being installed.
Install a 3/8 inch 12 gauge Female Connector on the wire leading to the starter Solenoid.
Install a 1/4 inch 12 gauge Female Connector on the wire coming from the Clutch Switch Installed
on the end of the 4 inch wire added as an extension.

The Hot wire is attached to the Junction Block with a 12 gauge 1/4 inch connector
(one of the 24 inch wires made up with a 3/8 inch 12 gauge female Connector) and
secured to the top of the Junction Block as shown with a 10 mm nut).
The other 24 inch wire made up with a 1/4 inch 12 gauge Female Connector is secured
with a bolt to the same location as the battery 12 gauge ground wire (bolted to the frame rail
just behind the INFL REST Sensor).


We now have four 12 gauge wires (two with 3/8 inch 12 gauge Female Connectors and two with 1/4 inch
12 gauge Female Connectors shown.

The 12 gauge wire with 3/8 inch 12 gauge Female Connector going to Starter Solenoid
connects to post #30 of the Relay. The other 12 gauge wire with 3/8 inch 12 gauge
Female Connector connects to Post #87 of the Relay (this is always HOT when the key is on).
The 12 gauge wire with 1/4 inch 12 gauge Female Connector coming from the Clutch Switch
connects to either of the two smaller connections on the Relay. The second 12 gauge wire
with 1/4 inch 12 gauge Female Connector (one of the 24 inch wires) which is connected to ground
connects to the other of the two smaller connections on the Relay.
Make sure the clear plastic hose section is secure on the middle post (#87a) of the relay as an insulator.
This post is not hot at any time if wired correctly.


Tape the Relay and connectors secure with black electrical tape and tuck away down and under
(between large wire cluster and fire wall) under the ECM. The Main Junction Block is shown
located between the Battery and Fire Wall.

[5ABI VT]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

See Electrical Ground Connections and Installing Starter Relay

Locate the 12 gauge purple wire (red 12 gauge wire in my case of the Early 1990 ZR-1) and
cut the wire such that the end leading to the starter Solenoid sticks our far enough that
it can be connected directly to the Relay. Solder a 4 inch 12 gauge wire extension to the 12 gauge
purple wire coming from the Clutch Switch making it long enough to reach the Relay being installed.
Install a 3/8 inch 12 gauge Female Connector on the wire leading to the starter Solenoid.
Install a 1/4 inch 12 gauge Female Connector on the wire coming from the Clutch Switch Installed
on the end of the 4 inch wire added as an extension.

The Hot wire is attached to the Junction Block with a 12 gauge 1/4 inch connector
(one of the 24 inch wires made up with a 3/8 inch 12 gauge female Connector) and
secured to the top of the Junction Block as shown with a 10 mm nut).
The other 24 inch wire made up with a 1/4 inch 12 gauge Female Connector is secured
with a bolt to the same location as the battery 12 gauge ground wire (bolted to the frame rail
just behind the INFL REST Sensor).

We now have four 12 gauge wires (two with 3/8 inch 12 gauge Female Connectors and two with 1/4 inch
12 gauge Female Connectors shown.

The 12 gauge wire with 3/8 inch 12 gauge Female Connector going to Starter Solenoid
connects to post #30 of the Relay. The other 12 gauge wire with 3/8 inch 12 gauge
Female Connector connects to Post #87 of the Relay (this is always HOT when the key is on).
The 12 gauge wire with 1/4 inch 12 gauge Female Connector coming from the Clutch Switch
connects to either of the two smaller connections on the Relay. The second 12 gauge wire
with 1/4 inch 12 gauge Female Connector (one of the 24 inch wires) which is connected to ground
connects to the other of the two smaller connections on the Relay.
Make sure the clear plastic hose section is secure on the middle post (#87a) of the relay as an insulator.
This post is not hot at any time if wired correctly.

Tape the Relay and connectors secure with black electrical tape and tuck away down and under
(between large wire cluster and fire wall) under the ECM. The Main Junction Block is shown
located between the Battery and Fire Wall.

Took me a little to let it sink in Now I understand and very much appreciated !! I will do this mod asap !!

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by 5ABI VT

Took me a little to let it sink in Now I understand and very much appreciated !! I will do this mod asap !!

I have several links associated with the Relay Installation if you get confused. I get confused just trying to explain it.

If you can.......use a soldering iron and solder on all connectors except the connectors that slip on the Relay tabs. Also.....if you can....use heat shrink on all soldered connections and splices.

If you do not have a heat gun you can just use the end of soldering iron and rub the hot end up and down the heat shrink and it will shrink perfectly. Do not hold soldering iron hot end on the heat shrink in one spot but keep end of soldering iron moving.

When soldering the ends of a splice together, I solder each end of bare wire (about 3/8 inch) so each end takes full solder. Then I place each wire end side by side and hit it again with soldering iron (DO NOT FORGET TO PLACE HEAT SHRINK ON WIRE END FIRST AND FAR ENOUGH FROM SPLICE SO IT DOES NOT SHRINK WHEN YOU ARE SOLDERING SPLICE). After the soldered splice cools make sure there are no sharp ends of wire sticking out and then slide heat shrink down over splice and give it some heat.

[5ABI VT]

I haven't had any time yet but tomorrow looks like I will have time early to get this taken care of. I tried today to get a replacement relay for the relay on the far left. I wanted to ask does the relay mod bypass that relay or will that relay need to be functioning also? Its a 6 pin and am not sure how to test it. I know in Mitsumarks thread on Vats he had the identical symptons and he found it was the relay that failed. Before I go ahead and do the relay mod Id sure like to know if the relay is at least functioning.

[5ABI VT]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I have several links associated with the Relay Installation if you get confused. I get confused just trying to explain it.

If you can.......use a soldering iron and solder on all connectors except the connectors that slip on the Relay tabs. Also.....if you can....use heat shrink on all soldered connections and splices.

If you do not have a heat gun you can just use the end of soldering iron and rub the hot end up and down the heat shrink and it will shrink perfectly. Do not hold soldering iron hot end on the heat shrink in one spot but keep end of soldering iron moving.

When soldering the ends of a splice together, I solder each end of bare wire (about 3/8 inch) so each end takes full solder. Then I place each wire end side by side and hit it again with soldering iron (DO NOT FORGET TO PLACE HEAT SHRINK ON WIRE END FIRST AND FAR ENOUGH FROM SPLICE SO IT DOES NOT SHRINK WHEN YOU ARE SOLDERING SPLICE). After the soldered splice cools make sure there are no sharp ends of wire sticking out and then slide heat shrink down over splice and give it some heat.

Is there a part number I can search to get the relay required for this mod? Local napa guys had no clue what to a search for a part number. They tried '654' but it turned up carburetor kits or something

[5ABI VT]

Just an update.. I picked up a new starter relay. Still no change. With the hood open and key turned forward I do hear the pump prime and I do hear a slight tick I'm assuming is the starter solenoid. With the hood down and doors closed I can't hear it but trying to crank with both open I can.

Heading to pick up parts for the relay mod now but am still wondering what it may be. I added new grounds from the block to chassis as well as battery to chassis when I beefed up the alternator and power wiring (added power wire direct to banter from alternator as well). I should double check the grounds but with the clutch switch bypassed and key pellet bypassed with a resistor .. It's just making me wonder what actually is causing the issue.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by 5ABI VT

Just an update.. I picked up a new starter relay. Still no change. With the hood open and key turned forward I do hear the pump prime and I do hear a slight tick I'm assuming is the starter solenoid. With the hood down and doors closed I can't hear it but trying to crank with both open I can.

Heading to pick up parts for the relay mod now but am still wondering what it may be. I added new grounds from the block to chassis as well as battery to chassis when I beefed up the alternator and power wiring (added power wire direct to banter from alternator as well). I should double check the grounds but with the clutch switch bypassed and key pellet bypassed with a resistor .. It's just making me wonder what actually is causing the issue.

If you are talking about the added relay for the Starter Solenoid.....this should work.
High Power 80 Amp Relay Single Pole, Double Throw

[2ljd]

Originally Posted by 5ABI VT

Is there a part number I can search to get the relay required for this mod? Local napa guys had no clue what to a search for a part number. They tried '654' but it turned up carburetor kits or something

I need to do the same mod and ended up buying a pack of four relays (80amp). You're welcome to have one, but the shipping from Hawaii to you is probably more than the 4 relays...