Damn oil drain plug

[Dime]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Well......did you get the oil drain plug removed?
What method worked for you?

Well I didn't. I honestly have no clue why on earth it's this tight. The pipe wrench just chewed it up a bit more.

I think the biggest problem is getting a decent angle, leverage. Working under a car on jack stands is torture to me. Might take it down to a mechanic I know well and see if he'll let me have some time on a lift.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Dime

Well I didn't. I honestly have no clue why on earth it's this tight. The pipe wrench just chewed it up a bit more.

I think the biggest problem is getting a decent angle, leverage. Working under a car on jack stands is torture to me. Might take it down to a mechanic I know well and see if he'll let me have some time on a lift.

Damn.......well you already said that....
You hit it like Phil said?
You tried pipe wrench like Jerry said?
I guess Heat........Heat will break loose any kind of sealing/glue that someone used or corrosion.

First......take a drive and get the oil good and hot.....then try to remove the oil drain plug with oil hot.

I always use heat if nothing else works except on Cam Cover Original Torx 40s (could not get heat in that area).....
For The Cam Cover Original Torx 40s I use Chisel which works great (was actually very surprised a chisel works). And that with engine in car.

Heat does work great (and the only concept that works) for the Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds Torx 30 bolts which are not only corroded in the threads but along the bolt shaft within the coolant manifold. I apply heat to each bolt length/Manifold length and Injector Housing threaded area for each bolt one at a time. Then make sure I do not mess up the Torx 30 slots. Heat ALWAYS works. I use an acetylene torch.

Just do not start a fire and remember it is Aluminum Oil Pan.
Apply heat directly to the area around the Drain Plug...try it.....apply more heat...try again.....and so on.

Found this on google (which was maybe a steel oil pan).

Quickly heat the plug with an oxy-fuel torch, then use a pre-set pipe wrench on it immediately, before it has a chance to cool. Just barely crack it, don't unscrew. Once it cracks loose, let it cool before unscrewing.
Make sure to have water or a fire extinguisher handy, as flaming oil dripping out is a possibility.
If the head is too far gone, weld a larger nut onto it. If you're lucky, the weld heat will be enough.
Heat works on virtually any stuck fastener, far better than anything else, because above 1000°, rust becomes a lubricant.

Aluminum melts at 1,221 deg F

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by Dime

Might take it down to a mechanic I know well and see if he'll let me have some time on a lift.

This is certainly the right move.

A 5/8-18 oil pan drain plug is a more difficult find than most SO I'd be shopping maybe before visiting Your "friend". Maybe have Jerry send you a drain plug and the sealing washer first!! Another couple days I'd think of no concern.

[LGAFF]

problem solved

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mityvac-7201...447181&vxp=mtr

[RussMcB]

I'm not sure how comfortable you might be with the following, but it's what I'd do (after trying everything to unscrew the plug).

Definitely have a new plug on hand as a first step. Also, the proper size tap, a magnet, dental picks and anti-seize.

I'd try some sort of screw extractor kit, making sure the initial hole you drill is dead center.

That most definitely should work, but if not, I'd keep drilling a bigger hole in the drain plug until it can be picked out in pieces.

When done you'll want to run a tap through it so the pan's threads are true again.

I'm guessing the plug is steel, so you can use a magnet to help clean up any swarf that gets inside the pan. There shouldn't be too much. You could blow air into the dip stick tube to help blow it out, too.

Use anti-seize when putting the new plug in place.

A range of possible ideas here:
https://www.google.com/#q=screw+extr...oil+drain+plug

Good luck.

[Jagdpanzer]

For everyones information the oil pan drain comes with a factory installed helicoil thread insert.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Jagdpanzer

For everyones information the oil pan drain comes with a factory installed helicoil thread insert.

Really?
Now that is NEWS

I think before I start with some serious Oil Drain Plug Removal I would just remove the Oil Pan on a Lift (catch some spilled oil in a drip pan). Then get serious with the Oil Pan on a Bench.

Helicoil Insert......Very Intersting......so the Helicoil is obviously steel inserted into a threaded (larger thread) Aluminum Oil Pan factor installed?

Could that not mean that the steel Oil Pan Drain Plug is corroded to the Helicoil and in trying to remove the Drain Plug you are actually trying to remove the Helicoil?

[32valvesftw]

I ask this in all seriousness and without intent to insult the OP but are sure you turning it the correct way? Counter-clockwise.

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by Jagdpanzer

For everyones information the oil pan drain comes with a factory installed helicoil thread insert.

Yes it does but what would you expect that the male thread might be? I certainly wouldn't want to damage it.

Could it be that the OP or PO was sold an incorrect drain plug and it was a seemingly "force fit" that someone assumed was correct and actually did "force it".

OP - did you maybe purchase a replacement drain plug at some point?

[Dynomite]

Dave or Phil. explain the Helicoil business. I will take a close look at a couple oil pans on the bench today.