Sagging headliner ... (snappics)

[Schrade]

edit
Procedure for removeable Glasstop screen begins @ post # 46.

AND BE CAREFUL OF WHAT CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS YOU APPLY TO THE FOAM BOARD. Some compounds, even water-based, can generate heat enough to affect the foam board, and make it 'curl up', and force you to re-start the job.

Test the stuff that you decide to use, on the cutaway foam scrap. Maybe allow at least 24 hours to test.

The felt adhesive that I used on the Painted top did not curl the foam. Still test it on your own scrap tho'.

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I did this a few years ago, and put in new felt (PO was a smoker, and a ), and I had school logo embossed onto new felt.


I have additional headliners with the C4 logo embossed; send a PM at me here...

Old headliner / pad removal:

I put a butter knife to the edge, CENTER or the rear, to get under it. Make sure to hold the knife flat on the edge, to not scratch...



Then you can get a hand in.



Once you get under the edge, ya' gotta' pull the fabric off of the panel with your fingers. Don't try to pull it by the edge of the foam board - it will break up.

Wear long sleeves!

Go all the way around the edge, then work toward the center.

(at this point, the edge DID break, and I had to go around the other way)



Lifted. Lots of glue at the center.

[Schrade]

edited for completion...

I used felt adhesive for the new felt $5 at Lowe's:



I painted the pad with a mini-roller, + water-based Acrylic Latex paint, to stop pad dust from coming through the new felt, and to give some re-enforcement to the pad. A rattle can with clear Poly, or Black paint would probably do the same.

Place the new felt onto the pad. Flip back the lower half, to hold placement, and then apply adhesive with a putty knife:



Flip down the lower half, then glue the upper half:



(DO NOT PRESS DOWN TOO HARD - THE ADHESIVE WILL COME THROUGH THE FELT. You could see that in the 'Skully' '94 top... )

[Schrade]

edited for completion...

After interior dries, flip the pad, and cut excess around the panel side.



Instead of the cork sheeting on the roof panel side, I went with styrofoam board, 3/16", to quell exhaust drone, and to further re-enforce the original pad. Cut in sections, to about 1/4" of the original pad. Decibel readings with the glass top, and now with the insulated painted top, once installed...

Dry-fit the overlap the rest of the way around. The forward corner concave curves are tricky. I made 2 cuts in the apex of the concave curve, to about 3/8" of the edge (2nd edit - you need to cut to about 1/16" in the front concave corners - I got a buckle from not cutting close enough; see below):

[nelson007]

Thanks Scharde for the information.
My liner had came off during the Tail of the Dragon Run on the passenger side. Now I know how to fix.
Thanks
Nelson007

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by nelson007

Thanks Scharde for the information.
My liner had came off during the Tail of the Dragon Run on the passenger side. Now I know how to fix.
Thanks
Nelson007

Hi Nelson!

I bought the "kit" from Midamerica to re upholster mine. However, I believe that Robert DeMarco has some headliners with the ZR-1 script on them which you might prefer (maybe available too at the Registry Store, come to think of it!).

My foam was in good shape so I didn't have to remove/replace it.

Hint: There seems to be a "window" for contact type glues where timing is "just right" to press the two pieces together. Too early is almost as bad as too late, I find. And, many times, especially when working on larger areas like carpet (or the headliner too, in my case), the window is missed and pressing the surfaces together after that and the result is definitely left wanting. Furthermore, removing the pieces to start over can result in a poor to disastrous result.

The solution is simple enough - recommended by the auto body supply store owner I know: just spray another coat to one of the surfaces (the foam) and w/o waiting for it to get tacky, immediately press the pieces together. Not only with the bond be good, but you might be able to work with the pieces - adjust the fit a little whereas w/o the third coat adjustment is nearly impossible.

(The 3M Weather Stripping Adhesive is one example of a glue that sets up so fast that one can easily miss the window for best results. But, using this hint made all the difference in the world; not only on the headliner, but reapplying the emblems after the car was painted.)

Good luck, buddy!

PS: Far as the headliner coming off during the "Tail of the Dragon" run, it's ALL Robert or GUNNY'S fault. Shoulda known those switchbacks would cause stuff to come loose and they shoulda warned us! LOL!

[Schrade]

Before we buy some resonators (or hack the OEM resonator, to accommodate the 2 x 3" new hardware that I got from Jeff (WAY to much drone right now), I'm gonna' underlay all the interior with sheet cork, starting with the roof panel.

[Z51JEFF]

I shot the underside of my top with black Zolotone 20-06,looks better than anything else you could possibly do or use.I think so anyway.

[nelson007]

Thanks Paul ,
I checked the merchandise page and did not see the ZR1 liner. My liner is only pulled away from the foam about 3" along the side. How were you able to tuck in the liner with the foam still in place? I tried using a plastic spreader to push it in, but could not get it tight enough. That' why I was going to remove the foam.
Thanks Again,
Nelson


QUOTE=Paul Workman;206463]Hi Nelson!

I bought the "kit" from Midamerica to re upholster mine. However, I believe that Robert DeMarco has some headliners with the ZR-1 script on them which you might prefer (maybe available too at the Registry Store, come to think of it!).

My foam was in good shape so I didn't have to remove/replace it.

Hint: There seems to be a "window" for contact type glues where timing is "just right" to press the two pieces together. Too early is almost as bad as too late, I find. And, many times, especially when working on larger areas like carpet (or the headliner too, in my case), the window is missed and pressing the surfaces together after that and the result is definitely left wanting. Furthermore, removing the pieces to start over can result in a poor to disastrous result.

The solution is simple enough - recommended by the auto body supply store owner I know: just spray another coat to one of the surfaces (the foam) and w/o waiting for it to get tacky, immediately press the pieces together. Not only with the bond be good, but you might be able to work with the pieces - adjust the fit a little whereas w/o the third coat adjustment is nearly impossible.

(The 3M Weather Stripping Adhesive is one example of a glue that sets up so fast that one can easily miss the window for best results. But, using this hint made all the difference in the world; not only on the headliner, but reapplying the emblems after the car was painted.)

Good luck, buddy!

PS: Far as the headliner coming off during the "Tail of the Dragon" run, it's ALL Robert or GUNNY'S fault. Shoulda known those switchbacks would cause stuff to come loose and they shoulda warned us! LOL![/QUOTE]

[XfireZ51]

Finally got my headliner done using the old backing. Same guy that did seat covers charged me $40 to put this on.

[Dynomite]

I placed my Headliner so you could read it correctly looking up at it from an open door. I figured I would not be looking up at the Headliner so often when driving

Suede Headliner TIPS

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

Finally got my headliner done using the old backing. Same guy that did seat covers charged me $40 to put this on.