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Old 06-10-2014   #11
Racinfan83
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Eastern Missouri
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Default Re: Trans Questions.....Hard Going Into Gear

Here's a link to a DIY I did on mine..
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=20819
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Old 06-10-2014   #12
zr-1.R1
 
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Default Re: Trans Questions.....Hard Going Into Gear

Good evening to all, for the clutch master cylinder, brake oil dot 4 is compatible?
thanks
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Old 06-10-2014   #13
Rumbln70SS
 
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Default Re: Trans Questions.....Hard Going Into Gear

Quote:
Originally Posted by csavaglio View Post
Glad you'll get it sorted. Jim's a great guy and the turnaround is fast. He'll explain everything on the phone. He uses all OEM stuff and you're parts will be better than new when he's done. As I recall, they were around $120 plus shipping in a flat rate box. The last set he did for me was about 3 or 4 months ago.

As far as tranny fluid goes, I use Amsoil Synchromesh Transmission Fluid. As far as I know, the only current stuff on the market that the ZF builders recommend is the Amsoil, GM oil (which I don't believe is recommended by ZF themselves) and Castrol TWS 10w-60. The Castrol fluid is actually the motor oil they use for the BMW M-series cars. It's expensive....around $20 a quart and the only place I've seen it is at the BMW dealer.

I used the Castrol fluid a while back in one of my LT4's, but switched to Amsoil. I had no problems with either, but the Amsoil shifts a little smoother since it's a little thinner. It's also a bit cheaper and, the big plus, I don't have to go anywhere near a Bimmer dealer to get it....

Oh, when you do the transmission oil, make sure you can remove the fill plug BEFORE pulling the train plug.....

Chris
Chris, thanks again for your insight. I called Jim today and am waiting on a call back. I think I will go with the Amsoil fluid. Oh and I can't complain about Bimmers since I own one

Are these trannies smooth when they are right? How do they compare to a T56?

Good call on the fill plug......that would suck lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Racinfan83 View Post
Here's a link to a DIY I did on mine..
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=20819
Great writeup! I'll use some of your tips for sure.
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1970 SS Chevelle 396 with a 580 BBC
1974 Corvette Roadster
1990 Corvette ZR-1 Modified #952
1993 Firehawk (His)
2002 Firehawk (Hers)
2008 BMW 335xi DD


1988 S10 Drag Truck - Best ET 10.13@131
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Old 06-10-2014   #14
Rumbln70SS
 
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Default Re: Trans Questions.....Hard Going Into Gear

Update:

Talked to Jim today from Power Torque Systems. Seems like a real nice guy and very knowledgeable. He mentioned that I have to have original parts in order to rebuild them so I started tearing into the car this evening.


Low and behold I have original parts! I was able to get the master off, but I am having a little trouble with the slave. Anyone have any tips/tricks to getting it out? Mounting bolts are out, but I can't seem to get to the steel line and remove the unit.


One other question, my third brake light is not working. When I got under the dash, I noticed there isn't a connector plugged in. What color are the wires that connect to it? I found a few things unplugged and I need to figure that out before inspection again. Looks like someone removed the whole ABS system at one time.
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Tony

1970 SS Chevelle 396 with a 580 BBC
1974 Corvette Roadster
1990 Corvette ZR-1 Modified #952
1993 Firehawk (His)
2002 Firehawk (Hers)
2008 BMW 335xi DD


1988 S10 Drag Truck - Best ET 10.13@131
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Old 06-11-2014   #15
Racinfan83
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
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Default Re: Trans Questions.....Hard Going Into Gear

Not sure exactly which wires go to what - but there are 2 brake light switches. My 3rd light wasn't working and one of the two switches was bad... Wish I could help more but the dealer fixed this one while I had it there for inspection...
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Old 06-11-2014   #16
We Gone
 
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Default Re: Trans Questions.....Hard Going Into Gear

One of the brake switches is for the CC.
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Old 06-11-2014   #17
Mystic ZR-1
 
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Default Re: Trans Questions.....Hard Going Into Gear

Quote:
Originally Posted by We Gone View Post
One of the brake switches is for the CC.
CC and a splash?
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Old 06-11-2014   #18
Rumbln70SS
 
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Default Re: Trans Questions.....Hard Going Into Gear

Quote:
Originally Posted by We Gone View Post
One of the brake switches is for the CC.
LoL and mine is disconnected There are a few wires tapped and spliced under the dash.....maybe the result of ABS removal.

Got everything off tonight......shipped to Jim tomorrow for the rebuild....does anyone sell the replacement hard line? Mine is tweaked just a bit.

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Tony

1970 SS Chevelle 396 with a 580 BBC
1974 Corvette Roadster
1990 Corvette ZR-1 Modified #952
1993 Firehawk (His)
2002 Firehawk (Hers)
2008 BMW 335xi DD


1988 S10 Drag Truck - Best ET 10.13@131

Last edited by Rumbln70SS; 06-12-2014 at 12:08 AM.
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Old 06-11-2014   #19
Rumbln70SS
 
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Default Re: Trans Questions.....Hard Going Into Gear

Quote:
Originally Posted by Racinfan83 View Post
Not sure exactly which wires go to what - but there are 2 brake light switches. My 3rd light wasn't working and one of the two switches was bad... Wish I could help more but the dealer fixed this one while I had it there for inspection...
Hey thanks anyways! People on this forum are great!
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Tony

1970 SS Chevelle 396 with a 580 BBC
1974 Corvette Roadster
1990 Corvette ZR-1 Modified #952
1993 Firehawk (His)
2002 Firehawk (Hers)
2008 BMW 335xi DD


1988 S10 Drag Truck - Best ET 10.13@131
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Old 06-13-2014   #20
csavaglio
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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Default Re: Trans Questions.....Hard Going Into Gear

Not sure about the wires or the 3rd brake light and how it's tied to the abs stuff.

As far as the getting to the line going into the slave cylinder, it's a braided steel flexible line....like the braided lines a lot of guys use for brake lines. You should be able to pull the slave out (with some wiggling), drop it a little, and get a line wrench on the line.

Worst case, and I haven't had to do this on any of the ones I've done (2 LT4s and a ZR-1), you can unbolt the little bracket that holds the line to the frame or firewall to give more play....just follow the line down from the topside and you should be able to get to the retainer. Like I said, I've never had to do that, though.

I've always found the master to be a whole lot harder to get out. It was easy on the LT4 cars compared to the Z....a whole lot less wiring and stuff in that area.

When you put it back together, you can put the line on, tighten it up, then wiggle it back in there, feed the two bolts in and tighten them down.

Jim's a great guy and will answer your questions extremely specifically if you ask him. I don't get anything out of referring people to him, except that it keeps him in business so that I can go to him later too!

Chris
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