testing the ALCL. poor cold start running

[Karl]

I over slept and was running late for work!

Will take care of it tonight when I get home and update everyone.

[-=Jeff=-]

Originally Posted by Schrade

What was it there Karl?

You know what they say about minds that enquire, and the yen for knowledge...

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Loose nut behind the wheel

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

Loose nut behind the wheel

If only Karl would give us a clue

[Karl]

More like a loose nut on one end of my fuel filter.

The end nearest the engine (the outlet side) was about 1/2 a turn loose until it became truly tight.

It is a hard angle to get at, especially if the car is not very high off the ground.

Hopefully this is the problem. Last night I primed the fuel pump and heard a drip and smelled fuel. Low and behold there was fuel on the garage floor. I could see and feel it seeping out the filter.

I need a lift in my garage!

I will start her in the morning and see what happens.

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by Karl

Well my car still runs bad.

It worked fine for two trips. After changing the fuel pumps and strainers I assumed (yeah I know) all was good and did not check the fuel pressure.

Car started right up and no cold start issues. Went downtown and ran a few errands, sat in traffic, and had no problem passing on the expressway.

I let the car sit for a few hours and the symptoms came right back. Maybe they never went away.

New fuel pumps, strainers, and filters.

Here are 4 videos I made.

* Ignition on, no start.
* Ignition off after no start
* Start up
* Shut off

http://feed1.tinypic.com/rss.php?ua=...0gbgs0BA%3D%3D

I am lost. Only thing I can think off is the fuel pressure regulator or maybe the ECM due to this thread with the same similar start up issues.

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....=fuel+pressure

I see no leaks anywhere and all the lines are nice and tight.

Thanks for the help.

What do you think made it start leaking between this time? Did you hit any bumps?

Originally Posted by Karl

More like a loose nut on one end of my fuel filter.

The end nearest the engine (the outlet side) was about 1/2 a turn loose until it became truly tight.

It is a hard angle to get at, especially if the car is not very high off the ground.

Hopefully this is the problem. Last night I primed the fuel pump and heard a drip and smelled fuel. Low and behold there was fuel on the garage floor. I could see and feel it seeping out the filter.

I need a lift in my garage!

I will start her in the morning and see what happens.

I'm still thinking static fuel test is in HIGH order... Any Tuned Port Injection mill HAS TO HAVE AT LEAST 43 PSI - preferably 50+ for LT5 (although Marc H says 43 is sufficient). I don't know better to argue with him, OR FSM.

Do you have long crank time for hot motor?

And remember - cold start means nothing........................................... ...

[Karl]

I think it was leaking al the time and I never knew it. I replaced the fuel filter before the pumps. Me discovering the leaking filter and taking that video was is the same day. Car has not moved or been started since then.

Starting time seems to be the same weather cold or hot.

I am still somewhat puzzled since it ran fine for a short amount of time.

I still have the fuel pressure gauge connected so I will see what the pressure is when I start the car in the morning.

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by Karl

I think it was leaking al the time and I never knew it. I replaced the fuel filter before the pumps. Me discovering the leaking filter and taking that video was is the same day. Car has not moved or been started since then.

Starting time seems to be the same weather cold or hot.

I am still somewhat puzzled since it ran fine for a short amount of time.

I still have the fuel pressure gauge connected so I will see what the pressure is when I start the car in the morning.

You can check pressure in about 3 minutes, if you take your time. Motor off, + leakdown time.

Open Loop [cold] motor will run with a PLETHORA; a BEVY, of problems. You'll hear 'em say, "It runs like a bat leaving Hades". WOT performance doesn't mean squat either...

[Karl]

Car still has low fuel pressure. When I say the car ran fine for a short amount of time, I am referring to running errands around down, sitting in traffic, etc. A good 30 plus minutes of driving. The car got plenty warm, was on the expressway, bumper to bumper traffic, stop light driving, etc.

I started the car and fuel pressure is still at ~23 psi. Car fired right up, no leaks around the fuel filter either. I had it wrapped in toilet paper and all the toilet paper is dry.

I put the key in the ignition and turned it to the on position for 3 minutes without starting the car and the fuel pressure held about 26 and then fell to about 20 psi at the end of the three minutes. When the ignition first came on the fuel pressure gauge spiked to about 36 psi then settled down to about 26 psi.

EDIT: Will upload video later.


I am going to my friends shop and borrow his fuel pressure gauge to make sure mine is working correctly. I also disconnected the MAP and the connections were clean and free of oil any noticeable oil deposits.

[-=Jeff=-]

is the vacuum side of the fuel regulator wet? maybe the regulator is bad..

But diagnose it first, don't just swap parts

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

is the vacuum side of the fuel regulator wet? maybe the regulator is bad..

But diagnose it first, don't just swap parts

Yup - forgot all about ruptured bladder in FPR.

Static FP test will show this too - pinch front stainless steel mesh line coming from FPR.

I put the key in the ignition and turned it to the on position for 3 minutes without starting the car and the fuel pressure held about 26 and then fell to about 20 psi at the end of the three minutes.

You just now did this? (this is static FP test - good job; no need to even start the car right now then).

If the vacuum hose on FPR has no gas in it, you have either air in the line, or leaking injectors. Not likely a bad new pump. And the old pump was probably good too.

Put a jumper wire in the FP test socket on the firewall harness Driver's side.



then run jumper cables across the motor, along with the jumper wire, so you can get at the guage bleed valve. Have the bleed hose going into a can or jug. HOLD THE GUAGE BLEEN OPEN, and see if air bubbles are coming out of the bleed line.

WHen bubbles stop, pull the 12V power.

Close the bleed line, and now hold the jumper wire to the 12V jumper cable until pressure pegs. Note what it pegs to.

Then pinch the fuel INLET line, remove the 12V jumper, and undo the pinch to the fuel INLET line. This apparently forced air BACK to the pump, and got it out of the line.

Then repeat the static FP test. Note initial pressure, and post up on it.