Window closes outside weather strip

[Okiedoke]

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

Swap the tops with the car on a "level surface" - get some quality silicone "stick type" maybe but not necessary and use the time to do a little maintenance.

Ok. I'm really going to show my naivety now. By maintenance, do you mean clean the weather strips on the car and top and apply the silicone to the strips to keep them from drying out and cracking?

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

There's no need to rush it - force "nothing"!

The clear top came off pretty easily. I tried to be gentle with the white top, but it needed some effort to get on.

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

While the transparent top is off you can confirm it's authenticity. If its the original for a two/top option OR the original of a single/top option the last segment of the VIN will be etched into the front of the left side rail very near where the front C/R screw is.

C2L would be a two/top car from production, 24S blue & 64S bronze

The clear top has the last 8 digits of the VIN etched on. There seems to be a "1" before the 1st digit. I'm not sure what that is. Where would I see the C2L, 24S, or 64S?

[Okiedoke]

Originally Posted by Blue Flame Restorations

Leave the window down just a bit and close the door. Then put the window up all the way. Tada!

That was my workaround when I'm in the car. When I get out of the car, I had to remember to drop the window just the right amount so it'll close right and won't leave a gap at the top. If I'd forget, I'd have to hop in again.

[Okiedoke]

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

OP - remove the top first and let it rest "upside down" in your "California" sun - all day wouldn't hurt.

Can you clarify what the purpose of leaving it out in the sun is?

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

Then if the weather-strip is NOT torn or damaged use some weather-strip adhesive to re-glue it.

So I was gently nudging the weatherstrip back to see if the shape would good if I were to glue it. However, there's a small tear in the weather strip. I'm not sure if it was already there or if I had caused it. Is there anything I can use to seal that up? Here's a picture:

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

While the top is off confirm the glass is running up/down correctly and seems to be "wobble-free" when attempting to shake lightly by hand. Good luck!

I'm not sure what running up/down correctly means, but it feels pretty solig when I shake it.

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by Okiedoke

Ok. I'm really going to show my naivety now. By maintenance, do you mean clean the weather strips on the car and top and apply the silicone to the strips to keep them from drying out and cracking?



The clear top came off pretty easily. I tried to be gentle with the white top, but it needed some effort to get on.



The clear top has the last 8 digits of the VIN etched on. There seems to be a "1" before the 1st digit. I'm not sure what that is. Where would I see the C2L, 24S, or 64S?

Yes - just a soap and warm water wash and the silicone keeps the top from sticking to the weather-strip with the silicone applied. Clean the top frame also.

It is not unusual for a top that has been stored "off the car" and not used with any regularity to be a bit "stubborn". There is very limited adjustment. As you can see there's a contact area front and rear of the side weather-strips that is of different compressed size. Likely relaxed from no compression from being installed. It's been "resting". If perhaps it was a single top "transparent" build maybe the solid top hasn't been on the car previously. The SPID label would display a CC3 rather than the C2L I mentioned.

The C2L if the car was built with the 2 top option would appear on the SPID label on the console door. If the top is blue it would display 24S, if it were bronze 64S.

The significance of the 1 in front of the last 8 of the VIN I'm not familiar with, it is NOT a match to the "check-digit" which is the 9th of the VIN except in some very unusual circumstances where the "check-sum" algorithm would assign a 1 to the 9th position. Were there maybe more than one assembly/build plants for the tops? Is it maybe a shift or line identifier for quality control? I've never researched and it's the first time I've been asked! Thanks! It might be an interesting question for the membership to check the 1st character of their transparent top. Does it signify the tint? Mine is a 1 and it's bronze.

You can use this calculator and using any "erroneous" not matching digit or letter in the 9th position this calculator will correct it and display the rationale and algorithm, it's this algorithm that "validates" any 17 digit VIN of any manufacturer. It will only correct the "check-digit" - none of the others. Use any vehicle that you have to confirm:

http://www.alton-moore.net/vin_calculation.html

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by Okiedoke

Can you clarify what the purpose of leaving it out in the sun is?



So I was gently nudging the weatherstrip back to see if the shape would good if I were to glue it. However, there's a small tear in the weather strip. I'm not sure if it was already there or if I had caused it. Is there anything I can use to seal that up? Here's a picture:



I'm not sure what running up/down correctly means, but it feels pretty solig when I shake it.

The hot sun would have a tendency to relax the "bind" the weather-strip appeared to be in from your snapshot on your original post. I would think it did help. Were the screws in each end present and properly secured still? I don't recall but there may have been a metal reinforcement molded into the weather-strip at the attaching points.

The split in the weather-strip - I'm going to leave that alone. I have never attempted to "fill" the void but I've known people that have. The results, I'm not sure of their level of satisfaction. A short minor split "filled" might be the preferred vs. an after-market replacement. I seriously doubt that you created the issue in your attempt to secure it.

If the glass felt "solid" then I doubt that a failure in the glass alignment caused your issue. How many miles on the car? Worn door hinge pins and bushings could cause an issue but it would be a "high-miler" that would display that issue generally unless the door is used a an aid in exiting the car.

I can't tell but it appears you may have removed the weather-strip from the retainer. Did you? How much adhesive was present? I would think "minimal". You want to use a similar amount when reinstalling it, maybe a bit more on the rear section that was distorted. Use the black weather-strip adhesive here vs. the yellow that is generally suggested. 3M 8008 I would think the preferred over the 8011 product.

A product to fill the seam? I don't know but I'll ask someone who I believe did this OR maybe someone here has done similar and will respond.

[edram454]

maybe you can use a clear and flexible silicone in between the two pieces of weatherstrip. allow it to dry and try to use as little as possible. maybe you can salvage that weatherstrip. Good luck. ed ramos #3028

[Okiedoke]

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

get some quality silicone "stick type"

Searching online, I found a couple that seemed good quality. I wonder if folks have experience with these and know if both will work. Or can I get any dielectric grease I find in a local auto parts store?

1) GM Dielectric Silicone Grease (Part #12345579) - I've seen this recommended on some forums, but with a different part number. Really expensive though.

2) AGS Sil-Glyde (Part #SG8) - This seems to be the same stuff as the NAPA version and seems to be highly recommended.

Thanks!

[We Gone]

Been using dielectric grease on seals of all my cars at least once a year for about 30 years and my seals still look new. I put it on with a cotton cloth let it set for a day than go back and remove the excess, than a few days later as you will get a bit of black residue off.

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by We Gone

Been using dielectric grease on seals of all my cars at least once a year for about 30 years and my seals still look new. I put it on with a cotton cloth let it set for a day than go back and remove the excess, than a few days later as you will get a bit of black residue off.

That should work. Make sure you don't whip out the silicone/dielectric in the vicinity of a paint shop. You'll likely end up with a "genuine first class tongue lashing" OR maybe worse! I like the stick and I believe I still have some. Haven't looked for a long while. It certainly has become more difficult to purchase. Most any quality product that has a higher silicone content is certainly more expensive. You probably need to check the MSDS sheets for the product to confirm the content.

OP - you would want the part # you posted if you were shopping the GM product. It is "quality" - worth the price? I believe. You should be able to buy for maybe $10 or less. I believe that Wurth still does a stick but don't know. I know that Wurth does a "silicone free" stick and that's quite easily found. Might be a good buy. I found some spray one time that was really inexpensive, I did my leather winter boots with it and used it on my snow shovels. Silicone on a plastic snow shovel is quite an experience! I've got I think one can left.

[We Gone]

luckily I picked up an 8oz tube of silicone dielectric grease left over from an install 10 years ago, only used about an oz over the years a little goes a long ways. We use it on the high tension cables of the x-ray tubes and transformers.