Amp draw shows 0.0 from (-) post to (-) cable...?

[Schrade]

I DO have something taking down the battery (amongst the other problems with the stick-to-auto swap)...

Battery tested VG at Advance / Zone (bought an Optima anyway; not installed), but isn't the proper way to test for draw, through the (-) terminal???

Haven't tested through the (+) side yet...

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by Schrade

I DO have something taking down the battery (amongst the other problems with the stick-to-auto swap)...

Battery tested VG at Advance / Zone (bought an Optima anyway; not installed), but isn't the proper way to test for draw, through the (-) terminal???

Haven't tested through the (+) side yet...

Not sure I understand the question. Current tests are from - to + terminal with a known load over a specific period of time like 10 seconds.
The battery voltage should not go below the specified level (battery type dependent)

[efnfast]

Amp draw can only be done with a wrap around amp meter, and it must be for dc. Check on the positive cable. Don't know what the normal draw would be. I'll go check, be right back.

[efnfast]

Yea right, not a prayer of wrapping an amp meter around the positive cable.

[vilant]

I think he's talking about a split ring amp probe, that's what I have. I does have ac/dc settings, but I've never amped out a dc circuit before, just ac circuits.

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by efnfast

Amp draw can only be done with a wrap around amp meter, and it must be for dc. Check on the positive cable. Don't know what the normal draw would be. I'll go check, be right back.

Current draw can in fact be done without a wrap around amp meter. Even cheap meters from Harbor Freight ( $3.00) can measure up to 10 amps. You can do this at the - or + post (doesn't matter) by disconnecting one or the other and putting the meter in series (making sure to get the polarity right).

For anything higher than 10 amps you can still do it without a wrap around amp meter. You need a known low value resistor in series (0.1 ohm) then measure the voltage across the resistor. 1V will be 10amp draw. There are resistor made exactly for this purpose. They are precision high power resistors. The last one I used was in a 5 battery array to measure charging current. It was a permanently installed setup.

[WVZR-1]

Aren't we wanting to check for a "Parasitic Draw" here? That can be done easily with the DVOM in a series using the negative cable and the negative battery post with the DVOM set to AMPS. It can actually be done using either neg or positive but there's less of an opportunity to "fry" electronics if it's done using the negative cable and negative post. Generally speaking I'd guess we're looking for something 50Ma or less. Greater than that there's certainly something amiss.

All relays, fuses require a check. I'd guess check the "draw" and see what you've got. It needs to be done with a battery that is "fully charged"! Start with the DVOM I guess at it's lowest AMP setting not Ma for starters. Doors shut, lights off, hood lights maybe disconnected, check courtesy light, glove box console etc. Keys in your pocket!!

If you had no significant draw you could change to the Ma setting and recheck.

You mention 0 presently so I'm guessing you're using something high on your DVOM setting. Try 10 or 20 if you can, recheck and if still insignificant change to Ma and check. Are the leads in your DVOM in the correct ports of the meter. AMPS DC, Ma DC sometimes require the leads be swapped on the meter.

BTW - Consider the return of the Optima !! Red or Yellow seem to have issues. There's much to say around regarding them.

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

Aren't we wanting to check for a "Parasitic Draw" here? That can be done easily with the DVOM in a series using the negative cable and the negative battery post with the DVOM set to AMPS. It can actually be done using either neg or positive but there's less of an opportunity to "fry" electronics if it's done using the negative cable and negative post. Generally speaking I'd guess we're looking for something 50Ma or less. Greater than that there's certainly something amiss.

All relays, fuses require a check. I'd guess check the "draw" and see what you've got. It needs to be done with a battery that is "fully charged"! Start with the DVOM I guess at it's lowest AMP setting not Ma for starters. Doors shut, lights off, hood lights maybe disconnected, check courtesy light, glove box console etc. Keys in your pocket!!

If you had no significant draw you could change to the Ma setting and recheck.

You mention 0 presently so I'm guessing you're using something high on your DVOM setting. Try 10 or 20 if you can, recheck and if still insignificant change to Ma and check. Are the leads in your DVOM in the correct ports of the meter. AMPS DC, Ma DC sometimes require the leads be swapped on the meter.

Just remember to remove the test leads from the circuit being measured BEFORE changing scales on the meter, especially when measuring current! After selecting the ampere range, then reconnect the test leads. Otherwise, at the very least, there may be some arching at the meter's internal switch contacts that could be damaged.

Just a thought.

P.

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by scottfab

Current draw can in fact be done without a wrap around amp meter. Even cheap meters from Harbor Freight ( $3.00) can measure up to 10 amps. You can do this at the - or + post (doesn't matter) by disconnecting one or the other and putting the meter in series (making sure to get the polarity right).

That's what I should have done...

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

Aren't we wanting to check for a "Parasitic Draw" here? That can be done easily with the DVOM in a series using the negative cable and the negative battery post with the DVOM set to AMPS. It can actually be done using either neg or positive but there's less of an opportunity to "fry" electronics if it's done using the negative cable and negative post. Generally speaking I'd guess we're looking for something 50Ma or less. Greater than that there's certainly something amiss.

All relays, fuses require a check. I'd guess check the "draw" and see what you've got. It needs to be done with a battery that is "fully charged"! Start with the DVOM I guess at it's lowest AMP setting not Ma for starters. Doors shut, lights off, hood lights maybe disconnected, check courtesy light, glove box console etc. Keys in your pocket!!

If you had no significant draw you could change to the Ma setting and recheck.

You mention 0 presently so I'm guessing you're using something high on your DVOM setting. Try 10 or 20 if you can, recheck and if still insignificant change to Ma and check. Are the leads in your DVOM in the correct ports of the meter. AMPS DC, Ma DC sometimes require the leads be swapped on the meter.

BTW - Consider the return of the Optima !! Red or Yellow seem to have issues. There's much to say around regarding them.

YUP!

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Just remember to remove the test leads from the circuit being measured BEFORE changing scales on the meter, especially when measuring current! After selecting the ampere range, then reconnect the test leads. Otherwise, at the very least, there may be some arching at the meter's internal switch contacts that could be damaged.

Just a thought.

P.

YEP; 'manual' said (I think published by Chilton or Haynes), said nothing about removing the probes before changing range. Manual ALSO said use ONLY the fused circuit to measure DC current. Only the 10 AMP UNfused circuit showed me the draw, which I found in MANUFACTURER'S .pdf on the web

AND, that circuit is good for < 10 sec measurement, ONCE EVERY 15 MINUTES!!! How many fuses can you pull in < 10 seconds

That's what I got for buying a 4M widget DT830 (Mickey Mouse Multi-Meter)

So I traded it in for a 4M Gen II CP 7677



I'll find that amp draw, or ELSE (or else, watch for the magic smoke that makes electronics, until the smoke gets out, like so:

[WVZR-1]

Check using the 10A fused first and see what value is displayed. If you're 1.xxxx or better then there's an obvious situation. When you're ready to check circuits you should be able to clamp one lead to the battery (-) post and the other to the cable, keeping the meter in viewing sight start removing fuses and checking the meter. Screw a 3/8 bolt into the battery, clamp to that.