What's a "Economical" way to increase our Displacement????

[alnukem]

Just curious......what would be the "Bang for the Buck" recipe for increased cubes. Thanks.

[WARP TEN]

Originally Posted by alnukem

Just curious......what would be the "Bang for the Buck" recipe for increased cubes. Thanks.

I don't know how you define economical but Marc Haibeck lists prices and descriptions for all the displacement increases he does (www.zr1specialist.com), and Pete can also give you an idea on displacement and costs. --Bob

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Two of the best guys in the business. Lots of options beyond what was once routine.

[A1990]

I think the short answer for the LT5 is...no, unless you can do it yourself.

[alnukem]

I guess I should have said the "most economical way"!!! I know there are no $699 Scat Cast Steel rotators & apparantly our stroker cranks are 4-5K. I guess that the most economical way is to sleeve the block & maybe offset grinding the crank. I would be more interested in how to get to 4.125" bore. I have also heard of people saying 283 SBC journal rods being referenced. Thanks....please give me some insight.

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by alnukem

I guess I should have said the "most economical way"!!! I know there are no $699 Scat Cast Steel rotators & apparantly our stroker cranks are 4-5K. I guess that the most economical way is to sleeve the block & maybe offset grinding the crank. I would be more interested in how to get to 4.125" bore. I have also heard of people saying 283 SBC journal rods being referenced. Thanks....please give me some insight.

4.125 bore (sleeves) is going to include side thrust angles that is going to require either Marc's billet "cage" or AES' closed deck approach.

I've been exploring that question too, even if just from afar. (The $$$ to do it at this time is "afar" cry from what I have saved up to do the upgrade!)

Quoting Pete: 391 cid is possible via the AES closed deck route using the stock crank. Rods...I dunno, but AES handles that "in the neighborhood" of $10k for the short block.

AES could give you a quote on the short block, but in addition you'll need some significant porting of the top end and heads, cams (likely) headers, and free-flowing exhaust to go with it.

By that time, you're getting close to $15-16k (a guess) for a 391. For about $5k more for a crank you'd have other choices from 415 to 441 cid; a BIG jump in performance for a "little" more scratch (to go the AES approach), and end up around $22k ±, IF you stay with the stock valves. Bigger valves = bigger $$$ still.

Bigger sleeves and pistons will get you in the 380 realm, and offset grinding will get you to 401 (at the expense of reducing some strength of the crank)

Bottom line? 500+ on a stock bottom, stock cammed LT5 is probably the biggest bang for the buck out there for the LT5, methinks. With cams and tune you're gonna be in the 440 to 450 rwhp area. At that level there are only a few (very few) cars on the road that will give you fits, based on personal experience (with mine).

Without more specifics, these numbers I tossed out are pretty fluid. As you nail down more specifics - far as what the REAL goal is - prices can be firmed up much better.

It's fun to ponder the idea tho, huh?

P.

[WARP TEN]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

.....Bottom line? 500+ on a stock bottom, stock cammed LT5 is probably the biggest bang for the buck out there for the LT5, methinks. With cams and tune you're gonna be in the 440 to 450 rwhp area. At that level there are only a few (very few) cars on the road that will give you fits, based on personal experience (with mine).....
It's fun to ponder the idea tho, huh? P.

It has been fun to ponder these ideas, but I am going with your thought--the stock bottom/stock cam 500 package seems to be the best approach. So I have stoppped pondering and will drop it off at Marc's next week. -- Bob

[Kevin]

buy one already done

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Originally Posted by WARP TEN

It has been fun to ponder these ideas, but I am going with your thought--the stock bottom/stock cam 500 package seems to be the best approach. So I have stoppped pondering and will drop it off at Marc's next week. -- Bob

Flip for the cams and tune. You won't regret it.

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by WARP TEN

It has been fun to ponder these ideas, but I am going with your thought--the stock bottom/stock cam 500 package seems to be the best approach. So I have stoppped pondering and will drop it off at Marc's next week. -- Bob

Welcome to the "500" club!

Lots to be said for this level. 500+ is nothing to sneeze at

-you keep the "Nikasil" (factory) bore lining (good stuff!)
-stock cam = stock idle (read: sleeper!)
-best bang for the dollar
-mileage remains nearly the same

Porting really wakes up the LT5 - makes an entirely different animal of it! (shoulda been like this from the factory!!)



One thing to consider is a set of re-grind intake cams to Pete's specs. If I had/have it to do over again, cams will be in the mix. Pete's cams have shown they reliably could bump rwhp by perhaps 20 hp +. With Marc's porting, you'd be in the "hood" of 530+ ish chp (something like 440-450 at the tires...Just a thought.)

Wecome to the FBI madness!!!

P.