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#1 |
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: lone pine and mammoth lakes
Posts: 1,406
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Walked up behind my car the other day and noticed the driver side looked lower than the pass. Straightened wheels and cked .Sure enough drivers 1/2 in lower than pass. I measured at top of wheel well in the center. what do i do to get it the same on both sides/?
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#2 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 142
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Proper ride height is measured at the frame as outlined in the manual, but if your like most and me, you want the body to tire clearances the same. You need to adjust the rear spring bolt and nut. Its located at each end of the rear spring.
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#3 |
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 147
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The ride height is measured at the frame (4 points) as outlined in the service manual. The body reference points are not all that accurate. Most cars will show differences. If you're making changes in the rear keep in mind that front spring tension is also affecting rear height. The front, however, has no easy adjustments. So, you may be compensating in the rear for some issue on the front.
The stock rear spring bolts have a cotter pin and it is not long enough for adjustment. Aftermarket bolts are longer and have special nuts to not back out. Unless you had an accident I wouldn't worry about it. |
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#4 |
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: lone pine and mammoth lakes
Posts: 1,406
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thanx guys . I thought i might be a worry wart. I had an idea , could one use a nylock instead of the castle nut and cotter key if i wanted to tweek the back height a little. has anyone done this before? I'm talking about 3 or 4 rotations max.
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#5 | |
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 147
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Just take out the cotter pin, take the load off the spring and backout the castle nut to see what you're after. If you only turn it 3 or 4 threads you may have enough thread left to put on another nut to "lock it" without removing the castle nut at all. Yes, I think you're a worry wart. ![]() I know, I did exactly the same thing. I have the aftermarket bolts ( I wanted to lower the car) and the left nut is at different height from the right. ![]() |
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#6 |
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: lone pine and mammoth lakes
Posts: 1,406
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thanx for your help. Being a worrywart goes with my line of work golf pro .got to hit good shots or ya don't eat. lol Where do you measure at on the frame. ordered a service man but its a week away .
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#7 | |
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 147
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#8 |
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: lone pine and mammoth lakes
Posts: 1,406
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thanx pards i found those spots and soon as i am done with thisI'll measure. Is there an aprox figure fr to back (for rake) . Proably should do it with a full tank. I think I'm going to really mess with my head and get the lowering kit so I can get the wheel wells filled up . Is an inch ok to lower.??
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#9 | |
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 147
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Looking at the car from a side: Front measuring spot is 652 mm (25 11/16") behind the front wheel centerline. Rear measuring spot is 486 mm (19 1/8") front of the rear wheel centerline. Shipping weight: coolant filled to capacity, 5.5 gallon fuel Curb weight: coolant filled to capacity, full tank of fuel Front height (at measuring spot): Shipping weight: 195.1 mm Curb weight: 193.1 mm Rear height (at measuring spot): Shipping weight: 208.8 mm Curb weight: 199.6 mm These specs are for a MY95 ZR1. Warning: if you lower the rear an inch without lowering the front you loose the rake. Not sure what all evil things happen without that. ![]() |
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#10 |
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: lone pine and mammoth lakes
Posts: 1,406
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t5hanx again for your help .got it dialed in. I put a floresent mark on the car on the spots where I measured. have to use a black light to find em , but don't have to measured. On the lowering I amgoing to wait till i get the whole kit . I am toying with just taking it to gulstrand. I hear he does quality work. I nhear the front spring can be a bear . What is a safe amt to lower the car? again thanx for all your help
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