Update on my hi-miler Z project

[WB9MCW]

THIS SHOWS BOTH HARMONIC AND SINUSOIDAL OSCILLATION

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by Pete

That my friend is one of the reasons why i use the solid bronze bearing.

That could've got nasty.

Also check screws on the rear main seal housing sometimes you find them loose.
Pete

I remember hearing about that back in my f-body days, the roller bearing was the "hot ticket" for a while, and then people started to experience some failures.

Thanks
Andrew

[bb62]

Amazing thread. It's remarkable to think about just how much you've learned about these cars over the past few years.

I also would be curious as to how much you have spent since you bought the project (excluding the personalization touches like the white/gray steering wheel which could just as easily have been done to a new car). With the initial car purchase of $9700 plus the "fixes", and if driving is the goal, would it have been better to have purchased a much lower mileage car?

If the goal was to learn about the cars however (and share that knowledge), then you hit a homerun. I also vote for keeping the thread going.

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by bb62

Amazing thread. It's remarkable to think about just how much you've learned about these cars over the past few years.

I also would be curious as to how much you have spent since you bought the project (excluding the personalization touches like the white/gray steering wheel which could just as easily have been done to a new car). With the initial car purchase of $9700 plus the "fixes", and if driving is the goal, would it have been better to have purchased a much lower mileage car?

If the goal was to learn about the cars however (and share that knowledge), then you hit a homerun. I also vote for keeping the thread going.

Thanks for the feedback

I haven't added up "exactly" what I've spent -- but I think it is a safe estimate that I've at least doubled the initial purchase price -- and that was before the repower project began.

I've spent a lot on things that probably weren't necessary to do -- for example, the Banski rear suspension parts -- I easily could have just put new bushings into the stock pieces which were in good condition. Brake upgrades certainly weren't necessary for a daily driver.

In terms of the amount spent on what was truly necessary to keep the car on the road -- that amount is obviously significantly less. But I still think that it's a more economical choice to buy a cleaner, lower-mileage example, if the ultimate goal is the smallest financial investment.

Overall, I most certainly could have purchased a newer, lower mileage example, with the money I've spent on this car. But, working on the car is half the fun for me (within reason), and I get a lot of satisfaction of driving something on which I have seen and turned every nut, bolt, and screw. I did the same with some previous vehicles, and without question enjoyed them more after I put more into them than they were worth.

Financially - it's a loser. But it's a hobby -- and hobbies traditionally are financial losers. So I can justify it in the end.


-Andrew

[tomtom72]

I'd like to add my thanks to the list of people that appreciate you taking the time to do this Restoration Thread. Thank You Andrew! I've learned a whole bunch of stuff from you!

I'd also like to express my best wishes on your motor project. It still bites that you have to dive into it now. I'm sure you would have preferred that project to postpone itself till some much later date. The deal that Kurt is giving is a very neat solution to the issue. Kudos to Kurt.

Also just as a fwiw I'll give you the view from buying the low mileage virgin side of the fence. In the long run it's not much cheaper mechanically. My car sat too much for the first 14 yrs of it's life. I buy it and drive the snot out of it and all the stuff that was used to being "on vacation" eventually had to be repaired or replaced. In the end at the rate I put miles on her I'll bet we arrive at the same dollar figure because the same stuff wears out. JMHO.

Good luck with this latest project, and I hope you're back on the road soon Andrew!

Tom

[mike100]

Originally Posted by VetteMed

... But I still think that it's a more economical choice to buy a cleaner, lower-mileage example, if the ultimate goal is the smallest financial investment.


-Andrew

The grass isn't that much greener on the low mile car side of the fence.

I probably had to put $7k into my car. Like you, I didn't have to do all of the work that I did, or could have skipped on a couple of things, but I wanted this car to be as perfect as it could before I drive the life out of it. All of my older cars never got 'finished' because I had to drive them everyday.

As was mentioned in the post above, my car sat for 5 years a it really did not like being driven. It took 6 months to find all the weak links. My biggest issue was one of the previous owners mashed the 2nd gear synchro...The rest of the stuff has been nickle-and-dime Saturday afternoon repairs, for the most part.

Good luck with the new engine.

Mike

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

Also just as a fwiw I'll give you the view from buying the low mileage virgin side of the fence. In the long run it's not much cheaper mechanically

Tom

Originally Posted by mike100

The grass isn't that much greener on the low mile car side of the fence.

Mike

Tom, and Mike, thanks for your insight, that does make me feel a little better .

Today's pics:



I utilized a starter mounting bolt and an alternator mounting bolt for the sling:

[VetteMed]

Ready for its trip to Tampa...


Had to remove balancer:


Bolt is a 21mm:


Junk "Autocraft" balancer puller I bought at Advance auto -- I don't recommend it.


Old balancer compared to new balancer; note cracking throughout rubber ring of old balancer.

[VetteMed]

Timing cover pulled for inspection - Things look pretty good in there, to my eye at least:


Location of the coveted "matching numbers" for VIN #302:

[VetteMed]

Ready for cleaning and painting: