Replacing Ignition/Steering Column Key Switch... - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Paul in VA · 04-14-2011

Hi:

I have a 1991 ZR-1 with a Key Switch that requires both turning the key and pressing in a button to get the key to the off position. I usually have to do this in two steps, turn off the engine, then relax hold on key, retighten hold on key and push in the button to rotate the key to the off position (and then removing the key totally).

My question is Can I replace the cylinder portion of my existing lock with one that does not have that irritating button to push in? Is there a trick to making a new cylinder work (other than matching the resistor in the key)?

Any other thoughts?

Thanks! ... Paul

secondchance · 04-14-2011

I have never torn into this part but there should be a way to defeat the button.
May be, if we can find a ignition lock off a junked Vette, disassemble and figure out a way to defeat this - just a thought.

Aurora40 · 04-15-2011

OT, but is your '91 red?

On topic, but maybe yours has worn or something. I've never had to do much more than press the button as I turned the car off, it isn't much extra effort when it works properly. It sounds like maybe yours isn't working properly anymore?

Also, I believe the Pass-Key pellet resistance is measured in the ECM or BCM/CCM or some other thing, not the key cylinder itself.

zr1don · 04-15-2011

I just replaced the key lock cylinder in my 90 Z. The push button on the lock cylinder is there to make it more difficult to inadvertantly move the key to the lock (as in steering wheel lock) position while driving. If you replace the lock cylinder it will require new keys and they must have the same embeded resister as your old keys. The bcm reads this resistance and if correct allows the fuel and crank circuits to work. If not VATS will create the dreaded no start condition, no engine crank and no fuel. When removing the key from a properly operating lock cylinder, the key must be rotated to the off position and then the button pushed while turning to the lock position.

hope this helps.

secondchance · 04-16-2011

From what I can figure VATS measuring device is in the cylinder (that's why there is an electrical connector) and the value needs to be confirmed elsewhere. It seems the cylinder comes with a dummy key so that you order a blank key w/ same VATS value and use the dummyto cut the blank.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=97027

04-14-2011	#1
Paul in VA Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Sterling, VA Posts: 147	Replacing Ignition/Steering Column Key Switch... Hi: I have a 1991 ZR-1 with a Key Switch that requires both turning the key and pressing in a button to get the key to the off position. I usually have to do this in two steps, turn off the engine, then relax hold on key, retighten hold on key and push in the button to rotate the key to the off position (and then removing the key totally). My question is Can I replace the cylinder portion of my existing lock with one that does not have that irritating button to push in? Is there a trick to making a new cylinder work (other than matching the resistor in the key)? Any other thoughts? Thanks! ... Paul

04-14-2011	#2
secondchance Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: McLean, VA Posts: 3,723	Re: Replacing Ignition/Steering Column Key Switch... I have never torn into this part but there should be a way to defeat the button. May be, if we can find a ignition lock off a junked Vette, disassemble and figure out a way to defeat this - just a thought.

04-15-2011	#3
Aurora40 Join Date: May 2005 Location: Leesburg, VA Posts: 2,713	Re: Replacing Ignition/Steering Column Key Switch... OT, but is your '91 red? On topic, but maybe yours has worn or something. I've never had to do much more than press the button as I turned the car off, it isn't much extra effort when it works properly. It sounds like maybe yours isn't working properly anymore? Also, I believe the Pass-Key pellet resistance is measured in the ECM or BCM/CCM or some other thing, not the key cylinder itself. __________________ Bob Saveland Former owner of #2517 [IMG]http://a.random-image.net/aurora40/vette.jpg[/img]

04-15-2011	#4
zr1don Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Temecula, CA Posts: 92	Re: Replacing Ignition/Steering Column Key Switch... I just replaced the key lock cylinder in my 90 Z. The push button on the lock cylinder is there to make it more difficult to inadvertantly move the key to the lock (as in steering wheel lock) position while driving. If you replace the lock cylinder it will require new keys and they must have the same embeded resister as your old keys. The bcm reads this resistance and if correct allows the fuel and crank circuits to work. If not VATS will create the dreaded no start condition, no engine crank and no fuel. When removing the key from a properly operating lock cylinder, the key must be rotated to the off position and then the button pushed while turning to the lock position. hope this helps.

04-16-2011	#5
secondchance Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: McLean, VA Posts: 3,723	Re: Replacing Ignition/Steering Column Key Switch... From what I can figure VATS measuring device is in the cylinder (that's why there is an electrical connector) and the value needs to be confirmed elsewhere. It seems the cylinder comes with a dummy key so that you order a blank key w/ same VATS value and use the dummyto cut the blank. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=97027