Timing problem

[8upZR1]

Yes two threads is confusing. But I have so many questions, I felt I needed to start anew. I just looked at the Prototype page, sounds like an awsome piece of machinery, I hope you get it all squared away. Sure I will wait on the push start, is there something bad that could happen from doing this? Other than me having to push start the car wherever I go, cause if thats what it takes I will do it. Any fresh thoughts or ideas about this woyuld be extremely helpful. I will let you know about the signal comparison tomorrow morning.

[Tyler Townsley]

Quote' What about a bent pin on the DIS connector? It is really easy to do,
especially if he has been swapping modules out.'

Unquote

Tyler

[8upZR1]

All pins look good on the DIS and the ecu. I check every time I pull the connectors. The fact that the dis diagnostic connector functions properly tells me that there are no problems with the harness making contact with the pins on the DIS and ecu, unless of course they do not run to the connecotr, but everything looks good at the harness.

[8upZR1]

I have been comparing the signals from the ISS and the crank sensor with the oscilloscope and cannot get them to match no matter how hard I try. The ISS will not produce the sharp wave that the Sensor will. It is more of a rectangular wave. Maybe I am not usibg the correct setting. My crank sensors don't seem to produce as much voltage output as they should be. Resistance is good, but the factory sensor does not even show output on my Volt meter. The new sensor is only putting out .5V. The page from the manual says .8V to 1.5V. The factory sensor is shorter than the new one, and it also had a shim. The .5V from the new sensor was without the shim. It is lower with the shim. I am thinking maybe I should find a third crank sensor. The square wave from the ref out line does not match the signal from the est line. According to the manual the signals should be identical but the est signal should be advanced in time. I am getting that the est signal is a shorter wave than the ref high. Is this normal or should I look into this?

I was wondering if there is any way that the reluctor wheel can be damaged, or if it is possible that rust can disrupt the signal? I doubt it could happen but maybe water from my head gasket incident rusted the wheel. Unlikely but anything is possible at this point.

[Tyler Townsley]

You do not have a wheel the crank is formed with detents for the sensor to work from. One of the reasons for the pigtail was to make sure the crank sensor was not still in the system as I think it will effect the ISS voltage. Its been a long time since I looked at the signal.

863-428-1410

Tyler

[8upZR1]

I removed the crank sensor when using the ISS. Using the scope, I compared the output of the ISS to the output of my crank sensors as the motor turns over. They are not the same. Maybe I am doing something wrong. I will repeat the procedure tomorrow with greater emphasis on all the little details. If the ISS truly is putting out 400 rpm, and my ignition thinks it is seeing 1800 then is it the DIS? I would assume so since the signal goes there first and gets processed into the ref signal. But I think it is highly unlikely that my good DIS with only a few hours of operation would break and that my brand new spare has the same strange and uncommon problem. I guess it could happen, especialy if I fried both of them when I tried to use them without the internal ground hooked up. When I crank the engine with the crank sensors there is no rpm readout from the MSD for some reason. Just by looking at a spark plug against the intake manifold it is obvious that it is much slower than the ISS. Probably closer to 400, but maybe even slower. At 400 rpm there should be 6.6 sparks per second. It is definetley much slower than this. What speed should the starter spin the motor to if it is getting 12V? I am leaning towards trying to start the car with a 30 mph push from a truck. That way I would know that the engine rpms are above the bypass rpm.