12-01-2010 | #1 |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,096
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Oil Changes for Winter
I pretty much put my Z away for the winter.
I used the Mityvak http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/mit7201.html Worked like a charm and pulled exactly 9 liters of hot Mobil 1 out. Put 9 quarts of Mobil 1 High Mileage back into the LT-5. I'll change the Oil again in the Spring. Do others change the oil seasonally regardless of miles on the oil? Did the same on my 93 LT-1. It won't work on my LS1. Last edited by xlr8nflorida; 12-01-2010 at 10:50 PM. |
12-02-2010 | #2 |
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Mendota Heights, MN. 55120
Posts: 984
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Re: Oil Changes for Winter
I change the oil and filter regardless of the miles.....
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Bob Anderson 1990 #2405 White/Gray Haibeck chip,4:09 gears,Power Effects Exhaust,5 spoke chrome,C5 brakes,49th Street rockers,K&N,Hurst,Headers,Upper & lower ported Minnesota State Director Founding Member #19 |
12-12-2010 | #3 | |
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Cedar Hill, Texas
Posts: 154
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Re: Oil Changes for Winter
Quote:
How do you like the Mityvac? Is it electric or operated by handpump? Is there a benefit to changing the oil this way as opposed to the old-fashioned drain plug? The reason I ask is, my oil drain plug is impossible to remove. The head on the bolt looks like mashed potatoes. We even tried a vice grip and still no joy. I am thinking of just buying the Mityvac so that I can pump out the oil and pour in the fresh Royal Purple that's dying to go in.
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[B][U]---SOLD BUT NOT FORGOTTEN---[/U][/B] [SIZE="1"][SIZE="2"]1992 ZR-1 #483 [COLOR="DarkRed"]Dark Red Metallic[/COLOR] [U][B]Mods[/B][/U] -Jeal headers -Stock exhaust with X-pipe -4.30 Gears -Corey Henderson tune -375 RWHP[/SIZE][/SIZE] Last edited by Nacho_ZR1; 12-12-2010 at 02:17 AM. |
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12-12-2010 | #4 |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,096
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Re: Oil Changes for Winter
I really like the mityvac. Mine is hand pump it can suck fluids out or push them in. Mityvac is great for rears, transmissions, oil changes etc. They make one you can hook up to air compressor. The hand pump works good, I have 9 quarts out in under 15 minutes. On the z it's great since filter is on top of engine. The advantage is relatively simple and clean oil changes instead of getting ramps, jacks, oil container out. When I'm done I simply pour the dirty oil into 5 quart mobil containers or sometimes I push it out using mityvak vacuum. You should get the oil hot before using the mityvak - same as on traditional oil change.
You will have naysayers who talk about sludge on pan and that it dosent get all the oil out. My oil pans are spotless and it sucks the pan relatively dry. I've checked it several times by pulling plug. You should get that oil plug fixed. Get a replacement and have a professional get it out. If they can't have them pull pan and cut or drill out and rethread it and put new plug in. I use it as a tool in addition toregular changes. It won't work on an ls-1. On my lt-1 I change oil prematurely and leave extended mobil filter on until next change when I put it on ramps. I get my mobil dirt cheap so my oil sometimes goes 500-3000 miles max even though I use extended mobil which can go 15k. How do you like the Mityvac? Is it electric or operated by handpump? Is there a benefit to changing the oil this was as opposed to the old-fashioned drain plug? The reason I ask is, my oil drain plug is impossible to remove. The head on the bolt looks like mashed potatoes. We even tried a vice grip and still no joy. I am thinking of just buying the Mityvac so that I can pump out the oil and pour in the fresh Royal Purple that's dying to go in.[/QUOTE] |
12-12-2010 | #5 | |
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Cedar Hill, Texas
Posts: 154
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Re: Oil Changes for Winter
Lol fastest reply to a thread - EVER I am actually reading on this forum the other post where you are talking about the Mityvac. I am really starting to like it. Seems like it will take out all the oil, leave minimal mess, and no crawling underneath the car! I am also thinking about the question you raised regarding getting the oil out of the oil cooler. Rather thank taking the oil cooler apart, is it easier to just do back-to-back oil changes within a few weeks to ensure there is fresh oil everywhere?
Lastly, which unit is best: http://www.jegs.com/i/Motive+Products/715/1708/10002/-1 or http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/mit7201.html Do I need to buy any additional attachments? Did you have any issues with the Mityvac? My credit card is ready :-) Quote:
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[B][U]---SOLD BUT NOT FORGOTTEN---[/U][/B] [SIZE="1"][SIZE="2"]1992 ZR-1 #483 [COLOR="DarkRed"]Dark Red Metallic[/COLOR] [U][B]Mods[/B][/U] -Jeal headers -Stock exhaust with X-pipe -4.30 Gears -Corey Henderson tune -375 RWHP[/SIZE][/SIZE] |
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12-12-2010 | #6 |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,096
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Re: Oil Changes for Winter
You might want to research royal purple some. There are some sites that are kinda negative about it. I believe hib wrote an article as well and was not impressed. I know you pay a premium for it etc.
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12-12-2010 | #7 |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,096
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Re: Oil Changes for Winter
The mityvak comes with everything you need. I can't comment on the other unit as I don't own it. I think the one I have, has more features. It comes with 3 different size tubes for different dipsticks.
In regards to oil changes, I recently spoke to Marc haibeck. 1.5 quarts stay in oil cooler, 1.5 quarts stay in heads so that is 3 total. What you get out is 9 quarts. Only dump the oil cooler if the oil is contaminated which will be 3 hour job. If you change oil frequently, it's not a concern ie 2000 miles. The oil cooler takes at least 30-45 mins to dump it's load of 1.5 quarts back into lt-5 so it gets mixed up. If you were anal you could do back to back oil changes but not really needed. An oil change before winter and in spring is best. If you wanted to save oil on back to back drains, Marc said you can run lt-5 engine idling with 10 quarts total which is 2 quarts shy. However, he said don't drive it 2 quarts shy. You could then drain after 45 minutes and add in proper 9 quarts. Last edited by xlr8nflorida; 12-12-2010 at 03:11 AM. |
12-12-2010 | #8 |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,096
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Re: Oil Changes for Winter
There are 2 known issues:
Sometimes screws on top mityvak not tight upon arrival. Take screwdriver and make sure they are tight for a good vacuum. Rubber plug in top of unit can be hard to pull out so you can pour old oil out. I just put some olive oil on it before I put the unit away and it works like a charm. |
12-12-2010 | #9 | |
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Cedar Hill, Texas
Posts: 154
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Re: Oil Changes for Winter
Quote:
I will definitely read up on the Royal Purple as well.
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[B][U]---SOLD BUT NOT FORGOTTEN---[/U][/B] [SIZE="1"][SIZE="2"]1992 ZR-1 #483 [COLOR="DarkRed"]Dark Red Metallic[/COLOR] [U][B]Mods[/B][/U] -Jeal headers -Stock exhaust with X-pipe -4.30 Gears -Corey Henderson tune -375 RWHP[/SIZE][/SIZE] |
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12-12-2010 | #10 | |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,096
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Re: Oil Changes for Winter
Quote:
Anytime! A few tips: 1. Examine the side of the cylinder casing, you will see its marked 1-9 liters. Note they are are on different spots on the cylinder as you go up the cylinder, they are not all on the line. I had this problem last year and I was on phone with Tom troubleshooting a vacuum issue and trying to figure out how much oil I pulled out. 2. When done properly, you will get up to the last line which is 9 liters. I have dumped some out before and tried to get more oil but you won't get it, 9 quarts is the max. So once you are done, you add your new oil. Then pull plug at top of container and using a cheap old funnel, pour it into the old Mobil 1 5 quart jugs and bring to Advance Auto Parts or Auto Zone for Free Disposal. 3. Before inserting plug back into container, put some oil oil on the rubber part of the plug. If you have a hard time getting the plug out in future, use a side to side jiggle vs. trying to pull the plug straight out. 4. Before you drain oil, I run my engine for 30 minutes then let it cool down for about 10-15 minutes. You don't want the plastic dipstick tubing to get too hot. ( read directions) Also note, that sometimes during the drain, you need to slightly move the dipstick around in which it can be hot to touch. I wear latex gloves but you might want to have on a thicker mechanic set of gloves. 5. You don't want to pump the device more then 10 times, you want to get a good vacuum going and then leave it alone. Often times it looks like you have a good vacuum but you have alot of air and oil and the oil is just a thin film. You will know when you have a good vacuum because you will get a good full tube of oil filling up the container at a decent pace. When you see pace slowing, pump the handle 4 or 5 times. Just don't over pump it etc. Good Luck! Last edited by xlr8nflorida; 12-12-2010 at 04:25 PM. |
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