@$@#^^& transmission!

[Paul Workman]

Boy...I wish there was a "works every time" method of getting the clutch disc lined up so poking the trans is easy every time.

In spite of having Ken's input shaft to use, and using a couple guide pins to slide the trans into place...Nada.

Finally, had to resort to having Ami push down on the clutch pedal while I poked the trans in that last 3/4" into the pilot bushing.

That worked like a charm (again), but I was beat by the time I got done with the "bottom end" today. Tomorrow should be better. Compression is up around 220 or better - a far, far cry from what it was the first "go round". With any luck at all, the Z will come out of it's year-long hibernation!

One thing and then another. It has been an ordeal....

P.

[Tyler Townsley]

i have a 2x4 about 2 1/2 ft long I use to hold the cluch pedal down when putting in the cluth. This allows one to wiggle the clutch in order to get it in that last inch or so. I push the clutch pedal in and use the board to brace against the seat and hold it down.

Tyler

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I am assuming that was to release the clutch disk so it would self align (center to center and rotation) with the spline shaft.

I am searching now to find your post regarding your flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and pilot bushing selection

I assumed you replaced the throwout bearing?

Yeah, the spline coupled with the disc = OK, but apparently was ever so slightly off center w/ regard to the pilot bushing. I recognized that to be the problem as the trans slid in but for that final 3/4" - a dead giveaway the disc is not perfectly aligned.

Well, "perfect" alignment is the point of my post. Apparently, it is tough for me to get - regardless of whether I use an input shaft or not! Have had to do the clutch pedal trick a couple other times as well - tough to do by yourself, but as long as you're close, it works like a charm.

I installed a Fidanza Al FW, new sprung hub disc, new PP, pilot bushing and throwout bearings (of course).

I'm using 7/16x1.25"x20 grade 8s with hardened (thicker) head bold washers from a SBC under the FW bolts.

I'm using the longer FW bolts recommended for Al flywheels - name escapes me - help me Dom! Had to deepen and tap the holes in the FW to accommodate the longer bolts; the tap came supplied with the bolts. Locktite (blue) used on PP bolts, and the red stuff on the FW bolts, per mfg recommendations.

P.

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by Tyler Townsley

i have a 2x4 about 2 1/2 ft long I use to hold the cluch pedal down when putting in the cluth. This allows one to wiggle the clutch in order to get it in that last inch or so. I push the clutch pedal in and use the board to brace against the seat and hold it down.

Tyler

Duh... I guess I was looking for some special way of aligning the disc. But, I like the 2x4 solution much better! GEEEZE do I feel stoooopid now! Sometimes we get ourselves painted into a corner by not seeing the obvious. So, thanks for that tip, and I'm sure I'm not alone in appreciating it!

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I cannot find the thread where you describe your clutch, pressure plate, pilot bushing, and throwout bearing combination you used with the Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel

There are soooo many combinations

Which sprung hub clutch disc did you use?
Which pressure plate did you use?
Which pilot bushing did you use?
Did you use a stock throwout bearing?

1. Centerforce sprung hub for an LT1 Camaro (don't have the part # handy)
2. OEM pressure plate (Veleo) purchased under an AutoZone trade name - it is the PP for the ZR-1 and not the thinner one for the LT1 cars (that would be usable, just would have required shorter bolts)
3. I used the roller-bearing pilot bushing, per suggestion by Marc Haibeck
4. The TO bearing came w/ the Veleo clutch kit (as did the pilot bearing).

P.