Changing out injectors 1990

[jrd1990zr1]

Geeting my 1990 ready for the BG trip. I am going to change out the injectors as soon as my gasket/oring order arrives from Jerry. Any tips, suggestions or pitfalls to avoid? I did read in a post that I ought to clean out the runners. Tape over the ports when the plenum is removed.

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks

[tomtom72]

One little nit pick issue. The right rear plenum bolt can be slightly obstructed by the supply & return lines entering the fuel rail block. On my 90 those lines prevented me getting the T45 bit to sit squarely on the bolt head. I felt there may be a risk of stripping the head. I loosened the three T45's that hold the 1/2's of that block together to get some movement on the two fuel lines.

If you loosen them a bit you can rotate them enough to get the Torx bit to sit squarely in the bolt head. You can disconnect them entirely as Jerry has the o-ring kit for those blocks. That maybe something I do the next time I pull my plenum as all those O-rings are really old on my car.

I would buy a new check valve for the secondary hose assembly, new ignition coils, test the connections on that hose assembly for vacuum, test the secondary actuators to see that they fully open at 8" Hg, re-seal the CCVB cover if it is leaking, test the vacuum tank & control solenoid, new plug wires......clean out the drain hole, check the starter connections, I'll think I'll stop now before you start to throw things at me! Oh, test the three way vacuum check valve for the A/C system while you're there


Tom

P.S. If you want help PM me. I don't know where Delanson is but I have GPS 1.0 in my C4....map of NYS

[USAFPILOT]

Haha...I just popped in new injectors yesterday with Rhipser's help. I didn't do any of the other stuff. We just checked to make sure it held the vacuum got it sealed back up and woalla! No more miss at idle and she screams to 8K again.

[jrd1990zr1]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

One little nit pick issue. The right rear plenum bolt can be slightly obstructed by the supply & return lines entering the fuel rail block. On my 90 those lines prevented me getting the T45 bit to sit squarely on the bolt head. I felt there may be a risk of stripping the head. I loosened the three T45's that hold the 1/2's of that block together to get some movement on the two fuel lines.

If you loosen them a bit you can rotate them enough to get the Torx bit to sit squarely in the bolt head. You can disconnect them entirely as Jerry has the o-ring kit for those blocks. That maybe something I do the next time I pull my plenum as all those O-rings are really old on my car.

I would buy a new check valve for the secondary hose assembly, new ignition coils, test the connections on that hose assembly for vacuum, test the secondary actuators to see that they fully open at 8" Hg, re-seal the CCVB cover if it is leaking, test the vacuum tank & control solenoid, new plug wires......clean out the drain hole, check the starter connections, I'll think I'll stop now before you start to throw things at me! Oh, test the three way vacuum check valve for the A/C system while you're there


Tom

P.S. If you want help PM me. I don't know where Delanson is but I have GPS 1.0 in my C4....map of NYS

Tom,

If you are in Westchester Co. I am about 170 miles north of you, about 30 miles west of Albany.

I won't throw anything at you, after all I asked. I though I would change out the injectors since the E10 eats up the OEM injectors and I am pretty sure these are the OEM injectors. I want to also do some clean up and test the integrity of the secondary system. Remove and put away the OEM LT5 wires. I don't think I have any coil issues.

I figure I have a lot of time before BG so I will pick away at it over the next few months. I appreciate your offer, but weather and distance might be a problem. Still have about 8" snow and more expected tomorrow night. Any support via the board is very much appreciated.

I have taken Gordon's school about 3 years ago so pulling the plenum doesn't look too difficult. Also watched at Carlisle last year.

I will check out your suggestion for the feed and return lines. Maybe I will have to make a second order from Jerry's. You mentioned the Torx was a T-45. I thought I read it was a T-40. Maybe I just got the wrong bit??? CCVB???

I seem to recall that the rails are difficult to remove from the injectors and tough to re-install. Sounds like you did this already, do you recall any difficulty?

Thanks again for your insight.

Best Regards, John

[ZR1Vette]

Well..here might be a good start>>
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7614

[ZZZZZR1]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

One little nit pick issue. The right rear plenum bolt can be slightly obstructed by the supply & return lines entering the fuel rail block. On my 90 those lines prevented me getting the T45 bit to sit squarely on the bolt head. I felt there may be a risk of stripping the head. I loosened the three T45's that hold the 1/2's of that block together to get some movement on the two fuel lines.

If you loosen them a bit you can rotate them enough to get the Torx bit to sit squarely in the bolt head. You can disconnect them entirely as Jerry has the o-ring kit for those blocks. That maybe something I do the next time I pull my plenum as all those O-rings are really old on my car.

I would buy a new check valve for the secondary hose assembly, new ignition coils, test the connections on that hose assembly for vacuum, test the secondary actuators to see that they fully open at 8" Hg, re-seal the CCVB cover if it is leaking, test the vacuum tank & control solenoid, new plug wires......clean out the drain hole, check the starter connections, I'll think I'll stop now before you start to throw things at me! Oh, test the three way vacuum check valve for the A/C system while you're there


Tom

P.S. If you want help PM me. I don't know where Delanson is but I have GPS 1.0 in my C4....map of NYS

Allway's helpful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Were you in FL helping out another Z brother recently?


David

[jrd1990zr1]

Originally Posted by ZR1Vette

Well..here might be a good start>>
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7614

Great thread.

Two questions.

1. Lenght of your hammer handle?

2. Where do you find the proceedure to check the coils?

Thanks, John

[tomtom72]

Hi John, Oh heck you went to GK's school! You're way ahead of me, I went to the school of "Gee, I gotta fix my LT5 myself" thank god I joined the registry or I'd still have a ZR-1 with broken injectors.

Yea, I always mess up the Torx bit number; my bad but I know which one it is in my tool box.......it's the only extended Torx bit not on the rail, bottom box, second drawer, front section....

Well that is a poke, 170 miles...no snow tires on my DD and her Highness is officially sleeping for the remainder of the winter. If you need help hit me up, but this is really a straight forward operation. Oh, CCVB = Crank Case Ventilation Box and it's cover ( under the control solenoid and vacuum tank). May want to swap out the old CCVB cover hoses for new ones while you're under there also....sorry, but they are 20 yrs old & hard by now?


Tom

John, I used the sliding end of my "Club" anti-theft device. It has an end like a "U" and has that rubber coating on it. It fits under the rail and a bit of levering did the trick for me, it is now my official injector rail removal tool and is in the bottom drawer of the bottom box.

[tomtom72]

Originally Posted by ZZZZZR1

Allway's helpful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Were you in FL helping out another Z brother recently?


David

Nope, not me. I was here getting ready for the snow that didn't show up last week. I do a bit of phone consulting though.... and I even eventually get to a resolution of the issues, sometimes!

All I can say is that I'd better keep my day job!

[ZR1Vette]

Originally Posted by jrd1990zr1

Great thread.

Two questions.

1. Lenght of your hammer handle?

2. Where do you find the proceedure to check the coils?

Thanks, John

We all are always glad to help...we all learn that way

Handle...just a plain on standard wood hatchet handle...can get from Lowes/Home Depot for about $2.60... I like it being wood since for prying etc is gentler on the engine parts and finish.

Coils>>
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....t=Coil+testing