Started taking apart the bottom half

I sure do have a lot to learn and taking my time with this rebuild. If you notice anything wrong please chime in. I am simply sharing this info for the novice folks like me that have never worked on an LT5 and hopefully get input from the pros that might catch me doing something wrong or see something that is questionable. The way I figure, members posts have helped me get this far and I am sure there is someone worse off than me. If money was not object and I did not live in Hawaii, I would surely ship this motor off to a builder so I could sleep every night.

So even though I am with post recovery from surgery, I decided to try to do a little at a time so I can keep this project moving.


Took off the oil pan and looking pretty clean to me. I gain more appreciation for the LT5 the more I take this thing apart and see what went into the development for its time. The OEM gasket was like new and I don't think this was gone into before so it says something about the quality of the factory gaskets to me. No sealants of any type and no leaks from the oil pan.



Everything looks pretty clean but do see some of the fine metal powdery stuff that I heard is normal. At least no other pieces of metal.







There sure are a lot of sharp edges on the block and not sure if that is the standard with supposedly high end engines that this was supposed to be.



This is as far as I got and hope to continue a little be more today. I am trying to get the Kent-Moore J 38211 or replacement to pull the crankshaft sproket off and not sure if really needed. I have some other pullers, but that gear is not something I want to take a chance damaging. I have a standard 2 arm gear puller, but it does not seem to grab enough that I want to take a chance as seeing the illustration in the FSM looks like the way to go.

I'll post the connecting rod bearings and the main bearings as a follow on to this post.

[bdw18_123]

I would say the sharp edges are probably normal, as I think these engines were more or less hand built. Not like normal cars where machines pump out thousands of them.

I still need to drop the oil pan on my LT5. Money issues have slowed me way down on my ZR-1 project.

[Polo-1]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

I am trying to get the Kent-Moore J 38211 or replacement to pull the crankshaft sproket off and not sure if really needed. I have some other pullers, but that gear is not something I want to take a chance damaging. I have a standard 2 arm gear puller, but it does not seem to grab enough that .

Thats what I use 2 jaw puller. Just put a worm gear clamp around the 2 jaws to hold tight. Make sure as you start to pull that the jaws are not spreading apart.

[WB9MCW]

This is going to be a Kool project to watch you do Craig for the group all to see.

So sorry it had to be you with a low miles Z but it looks like Murphy liked your engine.

Now we will just do a little dance for you and ward off that Murphy for the resurrection project.

[SharkPilot]

I'm lurking and watching this with great interest. Hopefully it will be years before mine has to come apart, but it's nice to see how it's all done and be able to see it too.
Many thanks to you for sharing this with all of us who have never gone there before.

SharkPilot

Originally Posted by bdw18_123

I would say the sharp edges are probably normal, as I think these engines were more or less hand built. Not like normal cars where machines pump out thousands of them.

I still need to drop the oil pan on my LT5. Money issues have slowed me way down on my ZR-1 project.

I keep looking as some parts that looking like they were chipped away with a hammer or chisel....had to do a double take. Yes, the money issues are surely slowing me down too and not sure how long it will take to get it back together. Everything is so freakin expensive...it is all the little things that are killing me.

Originally Posted by Polo-1

Thats what I use 2 jaw puller. Just put a worm gear clamp around the 2 jaws to hold tight. Make sure as you start to pull that the jaws are not spreading apart.

Okay, thanks. It seemed like it would work when I mocked it up, but I figured I would check before I focked it up. I am trying to buy the some of the bottom half special tool, but no response yet from Bill K; not sure if anyone else has it for sale or not.

Originally Posted by WB9MCW

This is going to be a Kool project to watch you do Craig for the group all to see.

So sorry it had to be you with a low miles Z but it looks like Murphy liked your engine.

Now we will just do a little dance for you and ward off that Murphy for the resurrection project.

Bryan,

Thanks and in reality there might be nothing really wrong other than the cam timing was a bit off and the sheared off key on the crank for the torsional damper; still not sure how he heck that could have happened. My LT5 was built on a Monday or Friday was it? Since I had to pull it out to confirm the key, could have just fixed the timing issue and put it back. Had to check the bearings while I'm at it since the oil lab report showed high copper and lead, but still not convinced until I pull the caps off to check the bearings. Yes, I am a bit surprised with only 53K miles, but not sure of the history of this Z too. A warning to all those buying Ebay Zs.

Thanks for THE dance....I am going to need it.

Originally Posted by SharkPilot

I'm lurking and watching this with great interest. Hopefully it will be years before mine has to come apart, but it's nice to see how it's all done and be able to see it too.
Many thanks to you for sharing this with all of us who have never gone there before.

SharkPilot

You're welcome and I hope my posts can be of benefit to others. It will be a little slow with things that keep coming in the way, but I am documenting this entire thing so I'll post as I can. The way I figure is some folks don't like to ask dumb questions, but I don't mind and I am first to admit I need help with this build.

So I has some time to start taking out the pistons and looking at the bearing so here are so pics (not so great though) of the bearings by cyl. I have some concerns about how these look and even though being replaced, what is the root cause of this is more important.


Cyl #1



Cyl #2



Cyl #3



Cyl #4



Cyl #5



Cyl #6