1st LT5 engine pull, looking for tips and tricks

Well, I am making some progress though not as much as I would like with everything　else going on in my life. My trip to Thailand was delayed and I did not leave today so I decided to strip the top half for preparation.



All is going well so far, but can someone give tips about getting the A/C compressor out of the way without taking out the freon? I prefer not to have to charge it after putting the engine back in when repairs are done. I still need to pull the injector rail and get all of the wiring harness out of the way.

I am not looking forward to taking out the brake power booster. I already pulled out the driver's seat as I remember wrestling with this before and that might end up the hardest part of pulling the motor.

I think I am going to get the plenum and IHs ported professionally while this is out since it was a DIY last time and not quite ported for peformance. If I can afford to I want to pull the heads to get it ported and valve stem seals with competition valve work....we'll see.

The engine stand does not come with any bolts for stand to the block so I will shop for some grade 8 as well as some bolts for the points on the block to chain to.

It was amazing how easily everything came off since a alot of stuff was taken off recently. I did not have to fight with anything and the SAMCO hoses were easy to remove too. I learned a lesson on gaskets and will not buy from a source I did. The gaskets stuck and broke for the plenum unlike the factory ones that can be reused; I don't even have 500 miles on them. I have coolant bypassed so it was clean and not messy to deal.

Any tips and tricks are appreciated. I'm just taking my time actually enjoying this pull.

What about some tips for pulling the driveshaft, beam and trans? I think I'll wait until I get help to pull the trans itself. Is all that is needed to remove the clutch assembly is one of the tools that holds the flywheel?

Thanks!!!

[tccrab]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

It was amazing how easily everything came off since a alot of stuff was taken off recently. I did not have to fight with anything and the SAMCO hoses were easy to remove too. I learned a lesson on gaskets and will not buy from a source I did. The gaskets stuck and broke for the plenum unlike the factory ones that can be reused; I don't even have 500 miles on them. I have coolant bypassed so it was clean and not messy to deal.

Craig:

I had the same thing happen to me when I had to pull my plenum to replace coil packs about a week ago. The new ones that I just put on yesterday came from Jerry's Gaskets and they look much better than the ones that broke.

What about some tips for pulling the driveshaft, beam and trans? I think I'll wait until I get help to pull the trans itself. Is all that is needed to remove the clutch assembly is one of the tools that holds the flywheel?

Thanks!!!

The first thing you'll want to do is to order up a set of CBeam alignment plates.
Trust me.
I believe ZFactor has a few sets left, I'll let him chime in.
Again, TRUST ME.
Once you've put a wrench to the CBeam you'll understand why.
The CBeam will probably need a little persuasion to get it out, It's a very tight fit. Don't be afraid to give it a few whacks with a dead blow hammer.

The clutch comes out with no special tools, just remember to loosen the clutch pivot ball first.

I did a fairly comprehensive write up with pictures back when I replaced my transmission due to 2nd gear synchro failure.
Be sure to read completely trough the thread, there LOTS of good info there.
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/forum/...ead.php?t=5351

Good luck!!

TomC
"Crabs"

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

All is going well so far, but can someone give tips about getting the A/C compressor out of the way without taking out the freon? I prefer not to have to charge it after putting the engine back in when repairs are done. I still need to pull the injector rail and get all of the wiring harness out of the way.

I am not looking forward to taking out the brake power booster. I already pulled out the driver's seat as I remember wrestling with this before and that might end up the hardest part of pulling the motor.

What about some tips for pulling the driveshaft, beam and trans? I think I'll wait until I get help to pull the trans itself. Is all that is needed to remove the clutch assembly is one of the tools that holds the flywheel?

Thanks!!!

On the AC compressor, just undo the three bolts that hold it to the block and pull it out of the way. There is enough slack to lay it on the shroud.

The brake booster does not need to come out. Definitely remove the cover for the windshield wiper that contains the circuit board.

On the trans, it's simple. Just unbolt and drop out. Mark the driveshaft orientation to the pumpkin. And mark the flywheel orientation to the pressure plate. If you have a impact gun, the bolts on the flywheel will come off easy, otherwise you will need a flywheel tool to hold it in place while you use a hand wrench.

[Paul Workman]

Dittos on the C-beam plates. Also, there is a jig that Bill B provides as well - it fits over both nuts on the top of the beam and "cages" them when you begin to back out the bolts. I've pulled the C-beams a few times - enough to know that it is a bit of a pain until the beam plates are installed. After that, the C-beam is a piece of cake to get on and "off".

BTW, you do not have to remove the beam to pull the drive shaft OR drop the tranny: To remove the drive shaft, all that has to be done is push the beam away from the shaft far enough to access the shaft. Easy. The FSM "moving" the beam aft over the differential's nose far enough to allow the tail of the trans to drop past the end of the beam. Works every time (so far!).

Well...Good luck on the engine pull. I've got that chore on my "to do" list of winter projects - finish my upgrades by porting the heads next (tho the top end P&P/headers and flow-thru exhaust has me doing the at the moment! WooHoo!)

p.

Originally Posted by tccrab

Craig:

I had the same thing happen to me when I had to pull my plenum to replace coil packs about a week ago. The new ones that I just put on yesterday came from Jerry's Gaskets and they look much better than the ones that broke.



The first thing you'll want to do is to order up a set of CBeam alignment plates.
Trust me.
I believe ZFactor has a few sets left, I'll let him chime in.
Again, TRUST ME.
Once you've put a wrench to the CBeam you'll understand why.
The CBeam will probably need a little persuasion to get it out, It's a very tight fit. Don't be afraid to give it a few whacks with a dead blow hammer.

The clutch comes out with no special tools, just remember to loosen the clutch pivot ball first.

I did a fairly comprehensive write up with pictures back when I replaced my transmission due to 2nd gear synchro failure.
Be sure to read completely trough the thread, there LOTS of good info there.
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/forum/...ead.php?t=5351

Good luck!!

TomC
"Crabs"

Hey Tom,

Thanks for the info and reply, I really appreciate it. I bought some gaskets from Jerry and will get a set of this one from him; I think I might have a set of NOS ones laying around too.

Yes, I do have a set of C beam plates that I bought a few years ago and was waiting until I had to pull the trans or rear for some reason; now I have a reason. I heard what you said and it will be a lifesaver next time and also for the performance. Thanks for the removal tips.

I'll remember the pivot ball first too and check out your thread; so much to learn.

Thanks again,

Originally Posted by Jeffvette

On the AC compressor, just undo the three bolts that hold it to the block and pull it out of the way. There is enough slack to lay it on the shroud.

The brake booster does not need to come out. Definitely remove the cover for the windshield wiper that contains the circuit board.

On the trans, it's simple. Just unbolt and drop out. Mark the driveshaft orientation to the pumpkin. And mark the flywheel orientation to the pressure plate. If you have a impact gun, the bolts on the flywheel will come off easy, otherwise you will need a flywheel tool to hold it in place while you use a hand wrench.

Jeff,

Thanks, I did do that and the A/C compressor was just scared of breaking the lines or something so now I know it is no problem and will just be careful.

Great news on the booster, I thought I saw somewhere that it should come out and it is just for pulling cam cover I guess. It seems tight but you would know and I am glad to hear. Thanks for the tip on the wiper cover too.

About the trans, I am replacing the flywheel with Fidanza aluminum and fidanza 3.2 clutch. I will also be pulling the pumpkin to replace with 4:10s and will mark orientation as well as replace the u joints on driveshaft and half shafts while apart. I appreciate the tips.

Thanks!!!

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Dittos on the C-beam plates. Also, there is a jig that Bill B provides as well - it fits over both nuts on the top of the beam and "cages" them when you begin to back out the bolts. I've pulled the C-beams a few times - enough to know that it is a bit of a pain until the beam plates are installed. After that, the C-beam is a piece of cake to get on and "off".

BTW, you do not have to remove the beam to pull the drive shaft OR drop the tranny: To remove the drive shaft, all that has to be done is push the beam away from the shaft far enough to access the shaft. Easy. The FSM "moving" the beam aft over the differential's nose far enough to allow the tail of the trans to drop past the end of the beam. Works every time (so far!).

Well...Good luck on the engine pull. I've got that chore on my "to do" list of winter projects - finish my upgrades by porting the heads next (tho the top end P&P/headers and flow-thru exhaust has me doing the at the moment! WooHoo!)

p.

Paul,

Thanks for the tips and information. This is my first time working with the Cbeam or anything else like this so far so I'm all ear about everything. The last time I pull a motor was in the late 70s so it has been awhile and just from my 68 Z/28 (darn, I wish I still had that car....my biggest mistake).

I'm finding that I don't have as much energy to do this all day into the evening like I used to and will try work continue a little during the evenings too.

Thanks for the wishes and I hope to pull it next weekend or the next at the latest. I'm anxious to pull the front cover to see what is going on in there. Degreeing the camshafts will be my biggest challenge I suppose.

Originally Posted by tomtom72

subscribed also..... I have alot to learn here, too. Sorry to hear that this is happening to you Craig. I have a set of crank & rod bearings(from LIMEY's run) if you run into that issue.....I hope not.......but I'll take time payments & what I paid for them, if you get jammed up....not trying to be a wise guy, I'm straight up on this.


Tom

Tom,

I'll PM you about this. I got my oil test results back with high levels of copper and lead. Not jumping to conclusion yet, but sound like bearings. Now to decide if I want to just do the motor and go bigger too while I'm at it.

Thanks!

[tomtom72]

I'll stand by what I posted. I can't find the bill, though. But you can go to WRP site and look up the bearings yourself and you will notice that the crank bearings are in the crank section, and the rods are sold seperately at the rod section(?)....wow that chit is expensive! When I bought them it was like $410.00(?,I have to check my paypal account for the figure ) for the complete set, rods & mains.

I thought it was a prudent choice, but then after buying them I'm not so sure. If I need bearings, I need a crank...or why am I taking apart a motor that is fine? If the rings are worn, then the bearings are worn also, but will the crank stand new bearings with out any crank work? See what I mean? Now I see why the guys that know say rebuild time? The answer = 368 or bigger.

Okay, like I said I'll stand by my post! The only caution I have is that I assume that you have been tracking your oil analysis over quite a number of miles?...otherwise, one analysis is worthless as a wear indicator, generally. Make sure the crank journals are up to just a bearing swap or you will have to go back in at a later date and redo it all!. JMHO.


Tom

Originally Posted by tomtom72

I'll stand by what I posted. I can't find the bill, though. But you can go to WRP site and look up the bearings yourself and you will notice that the crank bearings are in the crank section, and the rods are sold seperately at the rod section(?)....wow that chit is expensive! When I bought them it was like $410.00(?,I have to check my paypal account for the figure ) for the complete set, rods & mains.

I thought it was a prudent choice, but then after buying them I'm not so sure. If I need bearings, I need a crank...or why am I taking apart a motor that is fine? If the rings are worn, then the bearings are worn also, but will the crank stand new bearings with out any crank work? See what I mean? Now I see why the guys that know say rebuild time? The answer = 368 or bigger.

Okay, like I said I'll stand by my post! The only caution I have is that I assume that you have been tracking your oil analysis over quite a number of miles?...otherwise, one analysis is worthless as a wear indicator, generally. Make sure the crank journals are up to just a bearing swap or you will have to go back in at a later date and redo it all!. JMHO.


Tom

Tom,

Thanks again and I am still trying to figure out what I am going to do and won't know for sure until I get it all apart so no rush. I want to do this right so I will have to check everything out and think about how much to spend. I would like also find out more about WRP bearings too so I have research to do. I cannot do another analysis and that is the first but will have to be my indicator and reason enough to inspect the bottom half. Thanks and Aloha, Craig