New Guy New ZR1 Owner Few problems Need Assistance

[LT5-Lee]

Originally Posted by TFENT

Update 2-27-09.....

1. starter froze up on day and the car had to be rolled to break it free, no problems since. TG

2. car backfired this week while they were working on it. Now there is a SES light and car runs rougher then usual and no secondaries.....

Hi Tom,
The starter is prone to get bitchy if you wash the engine. The drain hole is too small and gets plugged up under the plenum so just sponge bathe her. I had to R&R the starter to clean the contacts on my starter solenoid, but no problem since.

IF a Z backfires, it is almost guaranteed to blow off one end of the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor on the back side of the plenum. My stock one does it once in a great while, no biggie.

For all the electrical problems, the manuals are a life saver, the wiring is not as straight forward as old cars were. Grounds are everything on these cars as most all sensors and solenoids are energized by grounds supplied by the ECM instead of a good old straight shot of 12 v.

After reading the manuals many times over while working out small bugs, the terrifying thought of a 17 year old "rotten little Johnny type" splicing into wires to install an after market alarm system in a vette sends shivers up my spine.

I have one piece of advice for you, you might take it a little slower before making too many big changes, especially on electrical. Take a few long road trips before tearing into everything for all the latest mods. But then again.... it is easier said then done.

[TFENT]

Update 2-28-09

Pulled a code 33 out of the car. Grabbed a flashlight and guess what?? map sensor line to the back of the Plenum was blown off. I couldnt see it last night in the dark. Plugged it back in and wa-la code gone. YEA!!!

Gonna take it back to the stereo shop this morning so they can go back and check all the grounds and connections for any loose grounds.

[XfireZ51]

Originally Posted by TFENT

Update 2-28-09

Pulled a code 33 out of the car. Grabbed a flashlight and guess what?? map sensor line to the back of the Plenum was blown off. I couldnt see it last night in the dark. Plugged it back in and wa-la code gone. YEA!!!

Gonna take it back to the stereo shop this morning so they can go back and check all the grounds and connections for any loose grounds.

Think about putting a tie wrap on the hose.

[TFENT]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

Think about putting a tie wrap on the hose.

LOL funny you said that done.....


Now I have an SIR Code 42 anyone?? Getting ready to ready the DVD with all the manuals on them.

[tomtom72]

About that tie wrap idea, please forgive my butting in here as I know I'm not fluent in LT5.

Isn't that kind of a lesser of evils that the MAP hose blows off. I had thought I remembered reading somewhere over at the NetReg site that there is a cause and effect relationship between not starting an LT5 correctly and the back fire that blows off the MAP hose????

I know I read somewhere that there is a difference, due to our at the time cutting edge distributorless ignition system, on how to properly start your LT5 vs cars that still used distributors when our Z's were new? I'm not even gonna insinuate that I know exactly why it happens, but the instructions I remember were to "hold over" the key and don't release till the motor is actually running. I'm almost positive that the most common reason for the MAP hose blowing off is a backfire due to improper starting technique??? I dunn no but we used to call it "short tapping" the key. Like back in the days of points we measured you prowess at doing a tune up by reaching in and hitting the key.....he who could hit the key for the lesser time was the winner, ya know less cranking time. The LT5 needs a long, relatively speaking, cranking time to "orient" the DIS box....or something like that...

Sorry to stick my nose in here.


Tom

[tomtom72]

Originally Posted by TFENT

Now I have an SIR Code 42 anyone?? Getting ready to ready the DVD with all the manuals on them.

This is from the 90 FSM (Helm Book)

"DTC 42 for SIR system: Indicator Lamp Circuit (open circuit)"

"NOTE: Ig ignition is turned "on" when Cluster Fuse is blown or removed, this code will set. Also, an intermittant open in the "INFLREST" indicator circuit or a disconnected DIC (Driver's Information Center) connector will set this code."

"The power for the "INFLREST" indicator lamp is provided by the 5A cluster fuse. Under the appropriate conditions the DERM grounds the circuit, illuminating the bulb."

"The DERM periodically checks the resistance of the "INFLREST" indicator lamp circuit. If the resistance is above a specified value, this code will set"

(JMHO as I'm not real great with these cars & electronics). Only thing that comes to mind instantly is:

did anyone check the "Cluster fuse"?

Audio work would be having to r&r the DIC.

Blown lamp for the SIR in the DIC????? I'm not sure about this one.

Alarm installation misshap???? Not throwing rocks at your guys, but aftermarket alarms & C4's don't seem to get on well, historically.

There's more in the FSM. I don't know if you have a 90, which as I understand it has a different system than the rest of the yrs.


Tom

[TFENT]

Yeap, I have a 1990 and yes the alarm has been quite a challenge for the stereo shop to say the least.

I will tell you I printed out the Code 42 SIR troubleshooting tree and took it to them. They got the alarm system to work about 99% so far just a little glitch and it is as follows:

With the key in the ON position, alarm off of course, and u switch the key to the off position the windows move up a 1/4 inch. If you keep repeating the ON to OFF movement the window clicks up and up and up. LOL quite funny.

In regards to the installation of the HID's well that was a whole can of worms. The lower resistance in the system with the low beams on did not allow the operation of the foglights. They did something to get it to work now with some relays and now it all functions with one minor exception. With the HID's on low all works 100%, but when you punch up the HID foglights the high beam indicator alone comes on. Not the high beams themselves just the indicator. Small price to pay as the HID's work AWESOME. It is totally worth the hassle.

In the end this being about the 7th time I drove the car since I bought it and OMG this thing is fun!! Too much fun, I think I am going to get into trouble driving it. Just turned 26,900 miles on it. Now all I need to do is get the brakes from Germany and get them installed. I will have some pictures of it in the coming weeks when we get it closer to being done. Just have a few more things to do. Spark plugs, Fuel Injectors, wires and we should be good to go.

If I haven't said it before guys thank you for all the help.

[LT5-Lee]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

About that tie wrap idea, please forgive my butting in here as I know I'm not fluent in LT5.

Isn't that kind of a lesser of evils that the MAP hose blows off.

Better to push the hose back on than replace an over pressurized MAP sensor.

[LT5-Lee]

Originally Posted by TFENT

Yeap, I have a 1990 and yes the alarm has been quite a challenge for the stereo shop to say the least.

I will tell you I printed out the Code 42 SIR troubleshooting tree and took it to them. They got the alarm system to work about 99% so far just a little glitch and it is as follows:

With the key in the ON position, alarm off of course, and u switch the key to the off position the windows move up a 1/4 inch. If you keep repeating the ON to OFF movement the window clicks up and up and up. LOL quite funny.

In regards to the installation of the HID's well that was a whole can of worms. The lower resistance in the system with the low beams on did not allow the operation of the foglights. They did something to get it to work now with some relays and now it all functions with one minor exception. With the HID's on low all works 100%, but when you punch up the HID foglights the high beam indicator alone comes on. Not the high beams themselves just the indicator. Small price to pay as the HID's work AWESOME. It is totally worth the hassle.

In the end this being about the 7th time I drove the car since I bought it and OMG this thing is fun!! Too much fun, I think I am going to get into trouble driving it. Just turned 26,900 miles on it. Now all I need to do is get the brakes from Germany and get them installed. I will have some pictures of it in the coming weeks when we get it closer to being done. Just have a few more things to do. Spark plugs, Fuel Injectors, wires and we should be good to go.

If I haven't said it before guys thank you for all the help.

Yea, the high beams get their ground through the fog lamps or vise versa.... There is a procedure somewhere posted for isolating the two circuits before updating the fog lamps to higher current. Like I said, the manual is a life saver. I have learned there is a reason so many vettes burn up in electrical fires.... mostly because of aftermarket add ons by non vette guys. If you can find someone that knows vettes very well, PAY HIM TWICE the amount of the going rate other guys charge just to keep them around!

[TFENT]

Originally Posted by LT5-Lee

Yea, the high beams get their ground through the fog lamps or vise versa.... There is a procedure somewhere posted for isolating the two circuits before updating the fog lamps to higher current. Like I said, the manual is a life saver. I have learned there is a reason so many vettes burn up in electrical fires.... mostly because of aftermarket add ons by non vette guys. If you can find someone that knows vettes very well, PAY HIM TWICE the amount of the going rate other guys charge just to keep them around!

I couldn't agree more. Now we just need to figure out how to make the high beam light only work when they are actually on