Fluidyne Radiator for Automatics

[1991ZR1]

I just bought a Fluidyne radiator. The order was for a radiator for manual transmission but they sent a radiator for automatic transmission. Does anybody know if this will fit without any problems? Any information will be appreciated.

[QB93Z]

I do not know if the Fluidyne radiator will fit properly in a ZR-1, but I just replaced the radiator in my Red 1990 ZR-1 and I can offer some insight.


First, the Fluidyne radiator with the auto transmission cooler is probably identical to the radiator for manual transmission cars except it has the trans cooler added to the right end tank.

The auto trans cooler connections are NOT visible at all when the radiator is installed in the car.

Here is a picture of the DeWitts radiator I installed so you can see the difference in a radiator without the auto trans cooler.



Are you planning to install the radiator yourself? If so, I just did it and I can offer advice if you want it.

Jim

[Aurora40]

I believe some of the cooling area will be replaced with the trans fluid cooler, so you may want to return it and get the right one.

Generally speaking they should fit the same, the only GM one now available has an A/T cooler on it yet people put them on their Z's no problem.

[QB93Z]

Originally Posted by Aurora40

I believe some of the cooling area will be replaced with the trans fluid cooler, so you may want to return it and get the right one.

Generally speaking they should fit the same, the only GM one now available has an A/T cooler on it yet people put them on their Z's no problem.

Bob, In the OEM version, the Auto trans cooler does not reduce the engine coolant tubes and fins area, but it puts a "cooler" in the right end tank that MAY reduce coolant flow by causing a restriction. But, that is the way Chevy designed it, and I guess they knew better than I do.

My observation is: for just about every C4 Corvette that has cooling problems and > 50,000 miles, the radiator fins will be clogged with debris and any replacement radiator will GREATLY improve engine cooling.

Jim

[GOLDCYLON]

I installed a GM replacement radiator this year and as pictured that was setup the same way for both both auto and MTs. It will fit fine from the picture you posted, just the AT lines are not used. The cooling will not be affected and as stated you should not have any cooling issues for years to come.

A friendly word of advise the lower rad hose is at an extreme angle that if your switching to Samco hoses at this time the only way to connect the lower radiator hose is to remove the top of the thermostat housing cover, secure the hose to the radiator and then to the thermostat hosing and bolt it back together. Trust me on this one. Good luck GC

[1991ZR1]

I plan to do this replacement myself so I hope I don't run into problems.
I already have Samco hoses and I believe someone mentioned in the past removing the thermostat housing. The main thing I'm hoping is that I won't have to disconnect any airconditioning hoses.

[Jerry#397]

Last year I installed a Ron Davis Rad. The drain is a alum plug. I called Ron Davis Rad and they said not to use Brass, SS or any metal drain valve other than Alum. which I can't find so I use the alum. drain plug. Your picture shows a brass drain valve, you might want to check on the use of Brass and alum.

Thanks,
Jerry

[QB93Z]

Originally Posted by 1991ZR1

I plan to do this replacement myself so I hope I don't run into problems.
I already have Samco hoses and I believe someone mentioned in the past removing the thermostat housing. The main thing I'm hoping is that I won't have to disconnect any airconditioning hoses.

You absolutely do not have to remove the AC lines. Disconnect all the fasteners. There are three screws on each side of the shroud low and forward that are hard to get to. Be patient, they will come out.

Then lift the left (driver's side) of the shroud first.

The hang up will be on the right side, under the oil cooler and AC lines. It is hard to do the first time, but the shroud is very flexible. The right corner of the shroud will flex enough to get it out from under those lines. It takes some force, but it will come out. I did it this week and I got it out and back in.

Once you have the shroud out, you may want to remove the fans. It is only three more screws and two wire connectors. It will make changing the hoses easier. Put the fans back in before the shroud.

Good luck.

PM me and I will give you my phone number if you need a friend to call.

Jim

[GOLDCYLON]

The stand and shake the shroud method does not always work. Another way is to simply cut the corner of the shroud underneath next to the AC and oil cooler lines at a 45 Deg angle. Using a fresh pair of metal shears will cut the shroud like butter and will be almost unnoticable when the job is completed. I have heard the other method works and I agree the shroud is flexable but every car is different and the lines are not aways positioned exactly the same. IMHO this method puts a lot of stress on the AC lines and the oil cooler lines and can actually cause a strees crack to the shroud. This stated however it also CAN work. The cut the corner of the shroud method WILL work and reduces the stress on those lines. GC

[QB93Z]

GC,

I hear you. I wanted to trim that corner of the shroud sooooo much. If for no other reason than to take out some fustration. If it was a job I planned to do more than once in every 18 years, I would use your idea for sure.

Jim