Headers Installation...

[Schrade]

I looked at that cross member earlier; not gonna' pull it until I have to... I might have been able to get at the quick connect by pulling the header, but that didn't appeal either.

I wanted to re-route the entire O2 line, to behind the block. But the harness goes underneath the plenum - same harness as the starter it appears. Even then, the O2 quick-connect is still snapped in behind the motor mount, so that was still a no-option.

I spliced in a 4x extension - weatherproof connector with snap-lock splicing clips. 3x wasn't available. Continuity passed; ground good too.

WIth a couple of existing bolt sockets near the KS, I'll have a way to secure the extension harness.



Then the O2 extension, with 3 more snap lock splicing clips; an additional 14" of line in the O2 wasn't appealing either, but re-routing behind the block wouldn't work.

Type 13 Copper Anti-Seize on the O2 threads:

[Schrade]

So now we need some DEI metallic loom for the O2 harness extension, and fabbed bracket (or 2), in the unpopulated bolt holes.



I tried a longways length of heat wrap / wire-tied, but that ain't right...

[4-cam]

Be careful using those snaplock connectors on an electronic signal. They work ok for splicing in trailer lights or a radio but the MV signal coming from the O2 sensors is very sensitive. If you need to do a splice I would solder each connection and heat shrink the wire.
Ive had issues with those in the past at work in control wiring.

[mike100]

OK, the lesser item (the 'a-hole'), I carefully formed a minor dent in my header to allow a faster to fit there. You may not care to do that, but I felt the radius and intrusion level would not affect power at all.

The more important issue- parts store slice joints are NOT going to be acceptable in the harsh environment near the engine exhaust and even if you could heat shield it, the potential for voltage drop due to exposure is something I would worry about.

If you remove the k-frame cross member (5 fasteners incl the 18mm motor mount nut), then you can unplug the 02 sensor with two long screwdrivers manipulated like chop-sticks.

Here is a link to a post I made on how to build a 3 pin GM weather pack extension:
http://zr1.net/forum/showpost.php?p=175901&postcount=4

Jegs is cheaper, but you can get this stuff at NAPA if you can't want for the Brown Truck.

As for how to keep the wire harness away from the pipes and close to the block... I slid the harness into some heat shield tube and bolted a GM starter shim to the spare M6 threaded hole on the passenger side block.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...-Type/_/N-25l8

you can bend this to simply hold the wires close to the block and you only need the single fastener.

[Schrade]

Oxidation was a thought, but I did the same thing with my LT1, without problems... I can watch it in DMaster, and if I have to unload, it won't be nearly the same as pulling OEM pipes again. I still have DM recordings to compare.

[Schrade]

At the connection:



and @ the header (real professional looking ) :

[Schrade]

Alright there Frank / Mike; any feedback to be had here now?

( 'DEI Cool Pipe' is rated to 500' CONTINUOUS)

(I stayed with the splice SnapLockers, gonna' have to learn that lesson the hard way ; I put in a spot of RTV to each end of the clips, then electrical tape. As I said before, I did an O2 splice on an LT1 sans problems)



and a little further back

[Bearly Flying]

Shrade; Your OCD is starting to show. Looks to me that you have it covered. The header wrap should provide a measure of protection for the wiring. There is quite a bit of airflow through the engine bay, unless the wires are extremely close or touching hot parts, You should be good.

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by Bearly Flying

Shrade; Your OCD is starting to show. Looks to me that you have it covered. The header wrap should provide a measure of protection for the wiring. There is quite a bit of airflow through the engine bay, unless the wires are extremely close or touching hot parts, You should be good.

This mean no more free parts there BF?

[Franke]

Chuck the upholstery looks good from here.