1990 ZR-1 cranks but won't start

[CosbySweater]

Well try starting your car with your foot to the floor and see what happens, it could be sharing the same signal wire as the ckp it isn't uncommon for several sensors to share the same signal wire, if you pulled that code you may wanna load test the signal wire and wiggle the harness and check for a open.

[Mystic ZR-1]

What's a ckp?

[CosbySweater]

Crank position sensor, make sure you don't have a temperamental ignition module as well

[POWERBRAKEBOB]

Had this issue for many years, finally, it would not start. I had bypassed the clutch switch years ago. Recently, the pump would not run. I replaced it, no pump running. I replaced all the relays. I bypassed the PASSKEY. I knew the injectors were bad, Changed them. It died one time, and NO crank. Pushed it in. I had installed a hot wire years ago to the solenoid to zap it when no crank. This time, the wire just sparked. SO, I knew the starter was shorted. The shorted starter also burned all the relays, including the f/p, the passkey, and starter enable. Took the plenum off again, looked in the valley....water. The car had been stored for some time, when it had gotten tired. In digging in, I found the valley drain hole was plugged from oil dripping down from the split PCV hose. Drilled out the drain hole at a slant to 1/2" . I took the starter to a friend of mine in the business. It turns out that there is a longer field/armature assy that fits right onto the LT5 starter housing. I had bought a H.D. Ford style starter relay with heavy battery lugs. (those tiny Bosch type relays can not carry current) but did not need it. My car has 253,000 miles on it. I also installed MSD coils on it. This combo spins the engine so fast, that it starts like a carbureted engine. Whamo! I can upgrade your starter to the H.D. armature, if you send it in. I am also working a larger clutch master to stroke the slave farther with less pedal travel.