Wobbly tilt steering column repair w/Marc H pins

[HAWAIIZR-1]

As we all know, Marc Haibeck has solutions for our cars and lives and breathes for the survival of our ZR-1s and LT5s. Although this is a standard Corvette and other GM problem with people trying to use their steering wheel to get in/out of their cars, he came up with a fix for the most common problem.

Mine was experiencing the wobble from top right to bottom left if that is the right way to describe it. I was going to go the domestic misfits link route: http://domesticmisfits.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=124 until I consulted with Hammer (John) and Marc about this issue.

Marc has the enlarged pin that he sells for $50 and even though I thought it was expensive for a pin, I feel that it is well worth it now. Due to the close tolerances these are made and the small order, he explained the price. He said I should only need one for the left side so I only bought one and figured if I was not happy, then I can do the other side.

So the repair is very easy with minimal dismantling (sorry, no pictures).

1. Remove the hush panel or what ever they call it under where your knees are if sitting.

2. Remove the aluminum looking knee bolster thing with 4 bolts (10mm).

3. Remove the tilt column knob by loosening with a small wrench (did not note the size).

4. Loosen the dash gauge cluster bezel trim (4 screws/phillips head) to manuever it out of the way and ensure nothing hangs on it. Not sure if you really need to do this, but I found it hanging when I lowered the column and did not want to take a chance.

5. Remove the two 15mm bolts and bracket that hold the column up and lower slowly.

6. Remove the two plastic covers that cover the area shown here to expose the tilt column pin that will be replaced



Photo courtesy of Marc

7. Use a screw to remove the pin by threading in and pulling if really loose or like I did and use the Lisle tilt wheel pivot pin puller (Ebay $8) like I did. The threaded hole in the top is where the tilt column rod was and right below to the left you can see the pin that you will replace.

8. After I removed the old pin I simple put Marc's enlarged pin in and lifted the column a little to push it in by thumb as far as it could go and tapped it with the hammer. Then I used a brass punch to whack that sucker in all the way until flush.

9. Put the column back up with the bracket and two 15mm head bolts nice and tight. Then everything else in reverse order.

10. Test out the tilt and feel the different. Almost like new with very little movement and it feels solid. I'm happy and won't try to do anything else. Marc stated that even when new these cars had a little bit of movement and might be all that I am feeling because it is solid feeling.

Next project is to remove the stock airbag/bus wheel and put on the Momo Competition wheel with NRG hub and quick release/lock. No wheel in the way should make exiting an entering easier as well as not leaning on the wheel to get out. Have to just do at least 50sit ups a day to strengten my stomach muscles. Big Thanks Marc and John.

Craig

[mike100]

Wow, that's really quite easy. I have been into two of these columns now, but they were taken apart completely.

My car was quite bad considering the low mileage, so I bought a new tilt base (took the column out of the car). the base is still available, but not the tilt housing. The oversize pins can correct the play in either. what I did was hand select the pins that I had on hand (the new tilt base came with two more) and then swaged some .003" copper foil used for winding transformers to bush up the tilt housing hole.

I would have preferred to do it the way you did though. In my case i really did need the base pretty badly, but i don't think there are too many good tilt housings that couldn't benefit from a fatter pin.

question/comment:
-$50 is not too much to custom fit to eliminate this problem and avoid column disassembly.
-Can you get the pins with wider inner or outer dimensions (but not both)?

[Hammer]

Craig,

I am really glad this worked out for you, I know it did for me on #458. Marc is the man buddy.

[-=Jeff=-]

Thanks Craig.. I got my pin about a week or 2 ago.. I just need to do the work.. As well as my clutch Hydraulics.. now I know exactly what I am looking for

[GOLDCYLON]

Just and idea as I like to combine jobs to make complete projects. If your taking the time to do this repair this is an excellant time to replace the guages lens if your is scratched, replace IP bulbs etc. Its a while you are already there type of thing.

Nice write up Craig. GC

[VetteVet]

Cliff,

Glad to see you back!!

Jep

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

Just and idea as I like to combine jobs to make complete projects. If your taking the time to do this repair this is an excellant time to replace the guages lens if your is scratched, replace IP bulbs etc. Its a while you are already there type of thing.

Nice write up Craig. GC

Yep, good idea, and great writeup!

[-=Jeff=-]

Did the swap of the one pin. I think I may need the other one but it is better then it was so I am going to leave it for now. I really don't want to pull the column apart

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Thanks for all the comments and if it can help someone in the future, that is great. It takes about an hour to do and definitely worth it. I have to admit I had my doubts but I will try to tighten up those other bolts inside the column when I replace the steering wheel just in case. If the other pin is easy to get to it would be worth it to try it, but I imagine there might not be room on the right side to drive it in unless the column is out?

I will say like some have experienced that it depends on how bad your housings are worn. Mine must have been kind of minor and I can imagine that if really worn the englarged pin is not going to help. I'm anxious to see what it is like to get in/out without a steering wheel in the way and quick release.

Aloha from Japan,

Craig

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by mike100

Wow, that's really quite easy. I have been into two of these columns now, but they were taken apart completely.

My car was quite bad considering the low mileage, so I bought a new tilt base (took the column out of the car). the base is still available, but not the tilt housing. The oversize pins can correct the play in either. what I did was hand select the pins that I had on hand (the new tilt base came with two more) and then swaged some .003" copper foil used for winding transformers to bush up the tilt housing hole.

I would have preferred to do it the way you did though. In my case i really did need the base pretty badly, but i don't think there are too many good tilt housings that couldn't benefit from a fatter pin.

question/comment:
-$50 is not too much to custom fit to eliminate this problem and avoid column disassembly.
-Can you get the pins with wider inner or outer dimensions (but not both)?

Thanks for sharing and that sounds great. I had bought all the tools to pull it and do the same. There is a guy that sell the both housing and support ($350 for the pair); probably the best way to go:

http://www.corvettesteering.com/

Tom Reina
Corvette Steering Service
2215 Mullinax Drive
Anderson SC 29625
864-287-9990

I'm surprised with yours and low mileage, but I guess it depends on the owner and how much they use it for support.