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08-10-2011
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#1 |
 Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 793
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starter
What is the minimum voltage for the starter to work? After driving a while the Z wouldn't start it wouldn't even click. Someone came by and jumped me, I just had the cables on for barely a minute and she turned over. I am going to have the battery checked out tomorrow but I was just curious.
Dave |
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08-10-2011
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: back in lone pine
Posts: 591
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Re: starter
12.0 volts
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08-10-2011
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#3 |
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 793
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Re: starter
Dang I am reading 12.8 I hope the starter isnt giving out
Dave |
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08-10-2011
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 793
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Re: starter
I think I am having heat soak problems. what is the procedure here. Do we send these off to be rebuilt or what source to we trust to buy one from. If I change the starter I don't want to do it again. I am hearing a click under the hood when the engine is hot and the starter wont turn is that the relay or the solenoid?
Dave Last edited by mgbrv8; 08-10-2011 at 11:18 PM. |
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08-11-2011
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#5 | |
  
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
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Re: starter
Quote:
I got a solenoid rebuild kit off of Ebay, but the plunger pin (you'll see) was a bit too short, and I didn't think the starter gear would fully engage, as result. So, R&R'ed the original disc by sanding it clean and smooth again, installed the new contact posts from the kit and aligned them for max contact with the ring. Took about an hour (not counting the plenum pull and pulling the coil pack). So far so good, 5k later. To others lurking here, correct me if I'm wrong: it seems these 16-21 year old cars should be R&R'ed under the plenum upon purchase and then it's smooth sailing for ... for some time anyway! My list of R&R'ed items was:
Oh! Also check torque in the IH housings. If loose (several of mine were), put some blue Locktite on the threads& torque the to 19 foot# (starting in the middle& working toward the ends - a little at a time). After that, and regular oil changes, including the trans and diff, and you should be good to go. FWIW, P.
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Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry Last edited by Paul Workman; 08-11-2011 at 03:24 PM. |
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08-11-2011
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#6 |
  
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,155
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Re: starter
Only Add Paul... Plenum gaskets just in case
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director  91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V |
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08-11-2011
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#7 |
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 793
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Re: starter
Thank you Goldcylon, well if i am going under the plenum what else should I prepaid to attend too. I suppose that would be a good time to R&R the alternator and do a r134 conversion. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Dave |
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08-11-2011
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#8 |
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: dayton,ohio
Posts: 425
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Re: starter
My starter would intermittently not work. I did what Paul mentions with new contacts in the solonoid, they were $7 from a local starter/alt. rebuild shop. It's been good for 5 or 6 years. The contacts in mine were obvisouly shot, one was wore more than the other, causing the ring to contact lopsided, easy to check.
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[FONT=Comic Sans MS][COLOR=red]"I wanna go fast!!"[/COLOR][/FONT] [FONT=Comic Sans MS][COLOR=#ff0000]-- Ricky Bobby[/COLOR][/FONT] |
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08-11-2011
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#9 |
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 793
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Re: starter
Has anyone done this?
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.ph...7&postcount=18 I dont mind hiding a solenoid somewhere David |
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08-12-2011
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#10 | |
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Antonio area
Posts: 1,179
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Re: starter
Quote:
voltage under load when the starter is cranking the engine. Have the battery load tested and report back - I think you just need a healthy battery.
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“Buy the best example of what you want, and pay whatever it takes. That way, you cry only once.” ~ Bruce Meyer |
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