Help!

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by Kevin

unless you absolutely need the car tonight, take the battery out and let the car rest overnight. if it is a vats issue every time you turn the key you're adding time to the lock out

The "break" might also do you "good"!

If you want to do something creative tonight I'd do the CCM codes maybe. It takes very little time and you will most likely find VATS errors if there are any involved. Instructions here:

http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2011...trouble-codes/

[ittlfly]

did you check the fuses for the pumps?

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by mgbrv8

I think I found the connector, it is the one coming out of the main loom from the ecm right in front of the wiper motor. Now I put power to it from my test light and I didnt hear any pump sound. Do I Have bad pumps?

Dave

Well, if you're connecting your test light in series with the pump test lead, the pumps will not run due to the high resistance imposed by the test light. The light will come on, but there isn't enough current (5+5A) to run the pumps. But, if you set your VOM to read AMPERES and connect the red lead on the pos side of the battery and the black lead to the pump test lead, you should get a reading of 10A which indicates both pumps are running...assuming you have in fact isolated the pump test lead (which sounds like you did).

I recommend too that you install a Battery Tender to the battery to keep it in top shape at all times, regardless of temperature or time between use. And, the battery will thank you as well! (My wife's battery in her 69 C3 is going on 6 years now and it still cranks her 350/350 like new!) I have found the little 800mA unit to be perfectly adequate for battery maintenance.

P.

[mgbrv8]

Okay I set my VOM to read DCA and connected the red lead on the pos side of the battery and the black lead to the pump test lead and I got zero. could I have a faulty fuel pump relay? Okay my local guys dont have bosch pumps available but the to have the equivalent in Airtex E3270 will these be okay??

[mgbrv8]

I have also remove the passenger side kick panel and looked there and on the side panel in near the hing FP1 and FP2 fuse are fine

[mgbrv8]

Okay do I need to test my relay if so any ideas

[mgbrv8]

Alright I have removed my gas door and rubber drain pan below the gas door. now what color wire do I need to run my test light to to see If I am getting power? or what color wire do I need to run power to?

Dave

[lbszr]

Originally Posted by mgbrv8

Alright I have removed my gas door and rubber drain pan below the gas door. now what color wire do I need to run my test light to to see If I am getting power? or what color wire do I need to run power to?

Dave

The grey is for the primary at the tank, and the green/white is for the secondary, this is on 1990, probably the same though. If you jumper the test connector, there should be 12V at both of those wires.

I just changed the primary on mine this week, used a delphi, can get the number if you want it.

[mgbrv8]

Okay I have jump ground to the black wire going into the tank with the fuel pump four pin connector disconnected I then made positive contact with the green/white tracer wire and gray wire with my positive source. I didn't get anything out of either pump. I take it my pumps are bad? anybody have any comments??

David

[mgbrv8]

Something must be wrong here. What are the odds of both pumps being out??