Replacing Ignition/Steering Column Key Switch...

[Paul in VA]

Hi:

I have a 1991 ZR-1 with a Key Switch that requires both turning the key and pressing in a button to get the key to the off position. I usually have to do this in two steps, turn off the engine, then relax hold on key, retighten hold on key and push in the button to rotate the key to the off position (and then removing the key totally).

My question is Can I replace the cylinder portion of my existing lock with one that does not have that irritating button to push in? Is there a trick to making a new cylinder work (other than matching the resistor in the key)?

Any other thoughts?

Thanks! ... Paul

[secondchance]

I have never torn into this part but there should be a way to defeat the button.
May be, if we can find a ignition lock off a junked Vette, disassemble and figure out a way to defeat this - just a thought.

[Aurora40]

OT, but is your '91 red?

On topic, but maybe yours has worn or something. I've never had to do much more than press the button as I turned the car off, it isn't much extra effort when it works properly. It sounds like maybe yours isn't working properly anymore?

Also, I believe the Pass-Key pellet resistance is measured in the ECM or BCM/CCM or some other thing, not the key cylinder itself.

[zr1don]

I just replaced the key lock cylinder in my 90 Z. The push button on the lock cylinder is there to make it more difficult to inadvertantly move the key to the lock (as in steering wheel lock) position while driving. If you replace the lock cylinder it will require new keys and they must have the same embeded resister as your old keys. The bcm reads this resistance and if correct allows the fuel and crank circuits to work. If not VATS will create the dreaded no start condition, no engine crank and no fuel. When removing the key from a properly operating lock cylinder, the key must be rotated to the off position and then the button pushed while turning to the lock position.

hope this helps.

[secondchance]

From what I can figure VATS measuring device is in the cylinder (that's why there is an electrical connector) and the value needs to be confirmed elsewhere. It seems the cylinder comes with a dummy key so that you order a blank key w/ same VATS value and use the dummyto cut the blank.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=97027