No...Full power..

[Ccmano]

Hi...newbie ZR-1 owner here. Just bought a 90' Z with 48K miles. I bought the car knowing that there was a leak to the secondary system. Read up on all the forums including this one about the system and how to diagnose to problem. Pulled the plenum and sure enough one of the hoses was disconnected. Hooked every thing up, even changed the wires while I was down there. Put everything back together, system now holds vacume and the pump is quiet with the ignition on. (unlike before) SES light is now out. Full Power light comes on when the key is turned.

Problem is...still no secondaries. I know there are certain other engine parameters that must be met before the secondaries kick in. But with out codes and the SES light I'm not sure where to look.

Any thoughts, help or similar experiances would be appreciated.

Hans

Did you check the secondary operation while you had the plenum off? Where the actuators able to be opened with roughly 8 inches of vacuum?

Just because the led dispalys "FULL POWER" doesn't mean the key contacts are giving it a full ground.

[Ccmano]

Strange...I was driving this morning and had "Full Power" for a while and then it went away again. "Full Power Light" still on and no codes (SES Light) I'm starting to think it is the valet key or something that goes out of spec when the engine get hot.

[tomtom72]

Just a shot in the dark......you said the power goes away when the car gets hot. Is the secondary fuel pump circuit okay. I know that sounds stupid but if the pump has a soft electrical fault, overheating it may make it cut out under load. I've looked at the write ups over at the netreg site and there have been some quirky type failures that were not srtickly the pump motors going south...like broken welds at the pick-up tubes and cracks in hose connections in the tank.

Did you notice if the stock OEM injectors were still in the car? If so they maybe suffering the long term effects of ethanol exposure....the OEM injectors were not designed to with stand ethanol and usually after awhile the coils start to short and they don't flow fuel...generally the hotter the motor gets the worse the short. This usually shows up as a miss and you can smell the lean condition in the exhaust. Since you didn't say anything about a miss I doubt this is a factor but I just toss it in just in case.


Tom

[Ccmano]

Tomtom...looks like you and I have twin cars...Mine is 90' Black/Grey #1723.

Actually the injectors could be a factor. The other reason I pulled the plenum was to replace the #1 primary injector, it had gone dead with only 1.4 ohms at the coils. Although, all the others checked out with the correct resistance. Considering the car spent it's life in Iowa, ethanol exposure is a real possibility.

I'm also wondering if the corrigated intake connector tube is not collapsing. It's very soft.

Hans

[tomtom72]

Hans!

One black Z to another... the black ones look the best!

Reason I didn't mention the air duct is...........I forgot!
Yea mine was doing that, it was my first mod...went out & bought some 6" or 8" dryer pipe at the hdw store and shaped & trimmed it up & stuffed the OE air duct....one problem solved.

Truly if the injectors go bad you wouldn't know unless it's the primaries. The secondaries would be tough to diagnoise if only they fell victum to the ethanol....high rpm miss that should go away if power key is off. My primaries went out to lunch so bad the entire right bank was lean! I swapped them all for RC's.


Tom

[Ccmano]

What exactly did you do with the duct? Did you replace it with dryer ducting or somehow reinforce the existing duct with the dryer duct?

Yes...Black is beautifull but a pain to keep clean...

[tomtom72]

Hans,

You've seen that round tin duct that comes in like 3' or 2' sections, it lays out flat on the shelves and it has a chinch joint along the entire lenght and a tapered,corrigated end...male/female slip fit between sections...Home D has the stuff in the HVAC section I think...I got mine at a local Hdw store.

I used one lenght of I think 18 ga/6" dia. pipe & cut it to lenght, then I joined it up and flattened it from round to oval like the duct and used some "wire-eze" to lube it and stuffed the OE duct with it. You don't need much lenght, maybe 6" or less because the duct only collapses in the middle part anyway...can't collapse any place else. I took my measurements from the OE duct while it was laying on the work bench. It ain't pretty but who sees it!

If you take the lenght measurement from the tapered/corrigated male connection end and spray some silicone on the outside of the metal you can feed it in from the air horn side of the OE duct so the air box side has a nice tappered smooth air path into the duct....it isn't great looking but my air duct will not get sucked shut. Over at the netregistry site there is Mark Copland's addy, he makes a sweet S/S insert...I just never got around to sending him my new duct to get sleeved.


Tom

Yea, mine gets swirls if I look at it wrong! I think it hates me!