Service Ride Control Code 14

[Jason 91]

I’m a little confused on how to proceed with the diagnosis on this code now. I originally retrieved only code 14, but I now have codes 23, 32 and 33. I think I got these additional codes because I turned the key while having the actuators disconnected and I did this more than a couple of times which is why I think I also got code 23.

To give you some information on my car, it is a bone stock 1991 with 49,9XX miles and, as far as I know, original shocks and actuators. Also, I do have the factory service manuals including the electrical diagnosis supplement so I was able to follow the chart for code 14.

Here’s what I was able to confirm;

Observed dampening adjustment gear turn temporarily
Measured voltage of terminals and they were all around 5v
Turned dampening adjustment motor control shaft on shock and moved it with what seamed to be very slight friction from side to side
Observed that the connection to the harness was clean and tight

On the dampening adjustment motor control shaft on the shock, I wasn’t real sure how exactly it should feel (it didn’t seem like friction to me) so I felt the left side and it turned and stopped exactly the same and there was no code associated with that side so I’m assuming my shock is good.

So here is where I’m confused. Based on what I’ve done, the chart says to replace the suspect actuator. Given the fact that the dampening adjustment gear does turn temporarily, I don’t want to just “replace the suspect actuator” because these things aren’t exactly cheap. I’m looking for something a more concrete here in order to properly diagnose this.



I’m not sure if this matters or not, but let me also add that the left side is far more oily than the right side. There are no drips – just more oil. Visually inspecting these the old fashioned way would tell me to replace something there on the left side yet I got no code for the left side.

I’m appreciative of any thoughts or suggestions on how to proceed.

Thanks,

Jason

http://www.zr1netregistry.com/forum/...ead.php?t=4611

Put everything back together. Clear the codes and see what you come up with.

[Jason 91]

Thanks and will do. I actually should have tried this before even posting, but I seem to always take the complex path with this car.

I should be able to drive it as well this afternoon after clearing the codes so I will do that and report back.

Thanks,

Jason

[gbrtng]

You can drive the car with the code(s) set - the system sets the shocks to a default position. From my experience with the system, one error can set more unrelated error codes, and it's my humble opinion that there is one (or more) software error(s) in the code that reports the errors. I went thru this many moons ago and with one defective actuator, the system would set most of the error codes.

[Jason 91]

I just took the car out for a drive. The light was off (after having cleared the codes) when I started the car and did not come back on. I drove on a variety of streets (including some highway) and conducted some slow launches and some fun ones.

I only drove about 14 miles, but I'm hoping that this simple solution has resolved my concern. I'm guessing that this light would come on right away if it was going to come on based on what these codes indicate.

For now, I will take pleasure in not having a repair and am knocking on my wooden desk in an attempt to prevent future ones!

Thanks,

Jason

[gbrtng]

The self-test is run when you turn the ignition on - the service light will come on within a second or two if the test fails. I don't think it will sense a fault after that.