Secondary Vacuum Pump Question - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

jrd1990zr1 · 09-27-2009

I own a 1990 ZR1. The secondary pumps are NLA. I recently purchased a 1991- secondary pump, I understand the electtrical connector is different for the newer pump. Can anyone tell me the GM part # for the connector. I would like to have one on hand shouild I need to install the new pump.

Thanks in advance for the assistance.

GOLDCYLON · 09-27-2009

1990 pump is the same but the connecters are different from 91-95. The 90 just used bare spades for the electrical connector. Best solution is to cut off the pump connector harness and wire in a weatherpack connector that is for the 91-95 cars.

http://www.rs-autosport.net/catalog/...roducts_id=192

10-03-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

1990 pump is the same but the connecters are different from 91-95. The 90 just used bare spades for the electrical connector. Best solution is to cut off the pump connector harness and wire in a weatherpack connector that is for the 91-95 cars.

http://www.rs-autosport.net/catalog/...roducts_id=192

Darryl, that is the incorrect weatherpack. I'll have to look and see what it is though.

GOLDCYLON · 10-03-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffvette

Darryl, that is the incorrect weatherpack. I'll have to look and see what it is though.

Ok will stay tunned.

jrd1990zr1 · 10-03-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffvette

Darryl, that is the incorrect weatherpack. I'll have to look and see what it is though.

Jeff,

If you have a correct one you are willing to sell could you PM me?

Thanks, John

tomtom72 · 10-04-2009

Is your OE pump DOA?

You know that they are fairly simple to repair as long as the motor hasn't burned up or the pressure limiter switch hasn't burned up. The usual thing that I think happens is that water vapor gets inside and fubar's the motor. The air intake is the issue, as it's a short unfiltered straight shot into the motor housing...at least that's how I figure the rust was able to form, JMHO.

You can take it apart and use contact cleaner and WD40 to clean off all the rust that is seizing up the motor. The only hard part is you will have to use a soldering iron to disconnect the limit switch wiring so you can really pull apart the motor to clean it up nicely.

It's been three yrs since I did mine, so my memory is not too sharp on exactly all the steps to tear it down completely, sorry, senility?

It's fairly easy if you stare at it long enough and take your time.

I had mine seize up from rust and I did buy the pump from the truck parts catalog(?) and for some reason I didn't want to splice in the different connector. I figured I had nothing to loose by tearing down my OE pump. Anyway, it is still working like a champ! My only addition was that I made a filter for the air intake.

Tom

Toyvet1 · 10-04-2009

Local Chevy dealer was able to match the new pump's weather pac two prong connector. New on came in a clear plastic bag. Its just a off the shelf standard part. Just hold on when he tells you the price.

jrd1990zr1 · 10-04-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomtom72

Is your OE pump DOA?

You know that they are fairly simple to repair as long as the motor hasn't burned up or the pressure limiter switch hasn't burned up. The usual thing that I think happens is that water vapor gets inside and fubar's the motor. The air intake is the issue, as it's a short unfiltered straight shot into the motor housing...at least that's how I figure the rust was able to form, JMHO.

You can take it apart and use contact cleaner and WD40 to clean off all the rust that is seizing up the motor. The only hard part is you will have to use a soldering iron to disconnect the limit switch wiring so you can really pull apart the motor to clean it up nicely.

It's been three yrs since I did mine, so my memory is not too sharp on exactly all the steps to tear it down completely, sorry, senility?

It's fairly easy if you stare at it long enough and take your time.

I had mine seize up from rust and I did buy the pump from the truck parts catalog(?) and for some reason I didn't want to splice in the different connector. I figured I had nothing to loose by tearing down my OE pump. Anyway, it is still working like a champ! My only addition was that I made a filter for the air intake.

Tom

Hi Tom,

My original pump is still working fine. I bought a 91- pump from a registry member in Carlisle. I was going to put it and the correct connector aside just in case.

Sounds like you could write up a pretty good tech tip based on your description of the repair. Thanks for the tip, I'll keep it in mind should my pump go.

Thanks again, John

10-05-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrd1990zr1

Jeff,

If you have a correct one you are willing to sell could you PM me?

Thanks, John

John, do you want the connector and two pins with the weather seal, or doo you want an assembled connector to splice in?

jrd1990zr1 · 10-06-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffvette

John, do you want the connector and two pins with the weather seal, or doo you want an assembled connector to splice in?

Jeff,

Looking for the connector, two pins and the weatherseal.

Thanks, John

PS, great avatar!

09-27-2009	#1
jrd1990zr1 Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Delanson, NY Posts: 916	Secondary Vacuum Pump Question I own a 1990 ZR1. The secondary pumps are NLA. I recently purchased a 1991- secondary pump, I understand the electtrical connector is different for the newer pump. Can anyone tell me the GM part # for the connector. I would like to have one on hand shouild I need to install the new pump. Thanks in advance for the assistance. Last edited by jrd1990zr1; 09-27-2009 at 01:17 PM. Reason: typo

09-27-2009	#2
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,155	Re: Secondary Vacuum Pump Question 1990 pump is the same but the connecters are different from 91-95. The 90 just used bare spades for the electrical connector. Best solution is to cut off the pump connector harness and wire in a weatherpack connector that is for the 91-95 cars. http://www.rs-autosport.net/catalog/...roducts_id=192 __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V

10-04-2009	#6
tomtom72 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jacksonville, FL USA Posts: 4,645	Re: Secondary Vacuum Pump Question Is your OE pump DOA? You know that they are fairly simple to repair as long as the motor hasn't burned up or the pressure limiter switch hasn't burned up. The usual thing that I think happens is that water vapor gets inside and fubar's the motor. The air intake is the issue, as it's a short unfiltered straight shot into the motor housing...at least that's how I figure the rust was able to form, JMHO. You can take it apart and use contact cleaner and WD40 to clean off all the rust that is seizing up the motor. The only hard part is you will have to use a soldering iron to disconnect the limit switch wiring so you can really pull apart the motor to clean it up nicely. It's been three yrs since I did mine, so my memory is not too sharp on exactly all the steps to tear it down completely, sorry, senility? It's fairly easy if you stare at it long enough and take your time. I had mine seize up from rust and I did buy the pump from the truck parts catalog(?) and for some reason I didn't want to splice in the different connector. I figured I had nothing to loose by tearing down my OE pump. Anyway, it is still working like a champ! My only addition was that I made a filter for the air intake. Tom __________________ 1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member

10-04-2009	#7
Toyvet1 Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Bloomingdale, Il Posts: 330	Re: Secondary Vacuum Pump Question Local Chevy dealer was able to match the new pump's weather pac two prong connector. New on came in a clear plastic bag. Its just a off the shelf standard part. Just hold on when he tells you the price.